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If it's bouncing between 181c and 241c within a couple of seconds, it's likely to be shorting/open circuit on the thermistor. Unless you've got a hundred watts of heating resistor there's no way you can put 60 degrees of heat into the hotend in a couple of seconds.
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General Mendel Topics
If you are confident in your crimping/soldering and installation of the thermistor, and have an open circuit, it may not be the thermistor. after a few hundred hours of printing with an e3d thermistor, I kept getting MINTEMP, and got through 3 thermistors before realising that the fault wasn't the thermistors, but a break in the cable going the the motherboard ( Megatronics) caused by hundreds an
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General Mendel Topics
I actually had this today (and slightly for some time) and I've realised that extrusion width seems to hugely affect first layer infill curling. (probably more accurately 'width over height'. As width approaches height, more curling on the first layer is seen (I was trying to extrude 0.35 / 0.25, on a 0.5mm nozzle ), a 2:1 minimum ratio seems to be best, and of course, you shouldn't extrude a wi
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General Mendel Topics
--This is a way to create a shortcut that automatically runs perl and slic3r.
--This is the content of citrusterm.bat. Edit it in notepad or the non-windows equivalents.
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@echo off
call C:\dev\CitrusPerlforSlic3rPerl\bin\citrusvars.bat
Title CitrusPerl 5.14.2.1 x86 ( wxWidgets 2.9.3 )
cd C:\dev\CitrusPerlforSlic
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Slic3r
I'm just in the process of trying to get ABS printing on kapton to work. I can extrude fine, and if the parts are quite big, (lots of surface area) they may stick for 30-50 layers but will start curling after. Small parts will lift off the bed by 10-20 layers.
Extruding at 260 degrees on a mendel-parts v10, with bed at 105 degrees. (as hot as it will go - hot spots at the resistors are at 115 de
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Printing
Hey, last night, I tightened the hot end to the extruder as i realised it was loose, and today I tried printing at different heights, and managed to print a small part, although the layers below were very 'wet' as it was printing.
Afterwards, it will not print again.
I've noticed that the hot end becomes loose once it is heated up due to it being so short and allowing the heat to travel to the
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Reprappers
thanks for the quick reply guys. Although I have tried different print heights, I will double check this tomorrow, and I will try different bed temperatures.
Used to be that the first layer was being printed 10 degrees lower than the others and would warp part way into the print, but i've turned the temperature setting off in skeinforge, and i've tried doing a print from pronterface.
Hotend is
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Reprappers
Hi, I hope someone on here can help.
For the last couple of weeks I have been having problems with my extruder, so much so that i've changed from v9 mendel-parts to a wades with a j-head nozzle, although it doesn't seem to have solved the problem.
When printing, the filament will not stick to the bed. (glass bed heated to 60 deg C, cleaned with acetone while cold, have tried on the aluminium p
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Reprappers