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Got ya, say what do you use when Slic3r is unstable like it is now?
by
Rein
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Slic3r
Ah I see, I'll try to find the other thread.
I thought it was something I did or what I was using to make the stl files because I had a bunch of old ones from Thiniverse that sliced with no issues. I am running win 7 64 because I'm reluctant to upgrade. lol
by
Rein
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Slic3r
I just started getting back to working on my 3D printer recently and I got the new version of slic3r 1.2.9a. The last version I had been running was 1.0.1 because I'm not a power user I stick with the "stable" versions.
So after this I went with some old STL files to work on creating new settings to work with my current plastic and all of these file were being sliced great and I got the settings
by
Rein
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Slic3r
Guess I'll switch to Skienforge then since no one has an answer to that.
by
Rein
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Slic3r
When I tell me machine to run a print it looks like the feed rate is not high enough. How do you change that?
The manual test extrusion feeds filiment just fine but it don't feen much (if any) when I try to run a print.
Or do you think this is an issue with the tention on the filiment in the feeder?
I'm new to this, sorry.
by
Rein
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Slic3r
Thats a good point I forgot they did that. All the more reason to replace it with another laptop universal PSU though it seems harder to find one that gets up to 22-24 VDC output than I expected.
by
Rein
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General
Ah and crap. Guess I'm off to look for a replacement. Wonder if I messed something up or if it was just a bad PSU.
by
Rein
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General
Dumb question, is it possible to series two 12 VDC lines from an old ATX PSU to get 24 VDC or is that more complicated?
Most of my electric experience involves batteries and not AC/DC PSU's.
by
Rein
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General
Ugh, my unit is rather messed up. Looks like the 120W PSU died. Unless I did something wrong its not putting out the voltage that was required and it kept jumping around. Also it was getting hotter than the hot bed would...
I also need another look at my hot end. Its either not hot enough or something in the tension isn't right....
by
Rein
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General
I'll break out the gun and watch my be temps with that, make sure its actually hitting that temp. Thanks.
by
Rein
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General
Its ABS (White if it matters seen something about color and size) and I'm printing to a Kapton taped and heated aluminum bed.
by
Rein
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General
Is the plastic not sticking typically an issue of:
Temp on the bed or hot end?
This distance from nozzle to bed?
The feed rate on the filament?
by
Rein
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General
Ah, thanks. Had to ask since its easier to understand than Skienforge. My beds not perfectly leveled and someone suggested trying a raft.
by
Rein
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Slic3r
Raft - 11 years ago
Sorry for the newb question. Is their a way to add raft to a print from this app?
by
Rein
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Slic3r
The bed itself is really close to flat. Or at least appears that way with what I had on hand to check it with. As far as adjusting the Y-bars the amount that its off by will be hard to fix without having a jig to lock it in place with.
by
Rein
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General
I know 3 points is usually better for making something like a chair level. But three on a spring supported bed is not. I can get three corners level and the forth is always off. I'll probably have to disassemble a good portion of my Y-assembly and try to start over with the three point leveling. I don't call that easier...
Also how do you get Slic3r to add a raft? I'll look later to see if their
by
Rein
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General
Thanks, not sure where you found that part but it was all I needed to get that to talk to the controller. I had the board and port correct.
Now if I can just figure out how to level this bed. I wish he would have done 4 points vs 3. I so need to redesign this bed. I keep nit picking at design flaws. lol
by
Rein
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General
Sometimes they make a tick sounds sometimes not. I've tried to adjust the POT's up and down and yes they doe have sinks and a fan blowing on them but I never see them get hot in the little I've used them so far.
I'll see if I can find something in there on the endstops. This kit was setup to use an opto on each axsis, is their a special config in there for that?
Oh every once it a while I hear
by
Rein
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General
Ok, basically redid everything on my PC and tried again.
ReplicatorG which is what I want still won't connect. However pronterface finnally does. Still can't get the firmware that cranberry told me to use to work but an older "Unofficial" one did... mostly.
I get motors to move but only some times and only in one direction save for the extruder. Is the board bad?
Oh also its not seding power t
by
Rein
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General
Also this pronterface thing but nothing in that seems to launch anything.
by
Rein
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General
I tried to load it on arduino unless I did something wrong but I followed what little instruction I had and it said something about halting on "s" or something.
by
Rein
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General
cranberry Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Personally, I would recommend Slic3r and
> Pronterface as a tool chain - they seem easier to
> use for a beginner ( like me ).
>
> Download the files from mendel-parts.com -
>
> 6-deluxe/ load the firmware with the version of
> Arduino in this package
>
> DATED_Printer-Software-v001_7-11-20
by
Rein
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General
It might have been another app then but it wasn't the app itself but something it needed. Like Skeinforge needs Python. I've shopped around for what was available at one point because Skeinforge was doing some weird stuff with support material when I was messing around trying to understand it. I had a humanoid figure and it printed support material in mid air about half way up the figure. lol
So
by
Rein
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General
Ah thats good to know and maybe a breaking point for me trying it, I expect to need support structure possibly more often than not.
I could be thinking of something else but doesn't Pearl give you a warning about being potentially harmful to your PC or something? I know I got that when I was looking at one software and I said hell no and backed out.
by
Rein
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General
Unless I'm mistaken I tried looking at Slic3r but it seemed to be not fun. I thought it wanted me to install something that could do things to my PC that I don't want either.
Plus some other people said it don't do as nice of a job as the skienforge behind ReplicatorG.
by
Rein
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General
First off this is my first rodeo. I've never used a 3D printer before.
Second Mendel-parts sucks.... Ok enough venting.
Does anyone that managed to get an Orca ever tried to run it on ReplicatorG? Or what do you use and can you point me at something to help get me going?
Even if you don't have an Orca do you have something I could use for a kick start at understanding better?
Sorry for the n
by
Rein
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General
pete-theobald Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> He hasnt finished the 0.3 manual yet. When i spoke
> to him (about 2am after trying all weekend i
> think) he said the missing stuff was on the 0.2
> drawings. I guessed most of it anyway. He hasnt
> finished anything, is too busy to do anything
> right and hes proven himself unreliable and not to
>
by
Rein
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General
He rushes his changes, he's already selling the 042? The 040 documents are not finished at all. You blindly assemble them and hope some sole has posted pictures for you if you get stuck.
by
Rein
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General
Its about $300 more for the M2, I know. I'm in the US, the 040 was like 808 Euro's (roughly). If the M2 existed when I made my order I would have gladly payed more. I'm not even a customer of theirs and they reply in less than a business day of any email when I asked them questions. You know I tried skype to call Camiel, the land line sounded garbled and the cell number had a disconnected message
by
Rein
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General
Actually I think your problem sounds like its cooling too quick if it's warping. No place that I have looked has had PLA work quite right. Alot of tweeking to get it somewhat good. Try ABS.
After banging pots and pans I did get my item yesterday. It was supposed to show up in February. February!!! Not April. Will never buy from him again and will never recommend him to anyone.
For print volume
by
Rein
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General
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