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Hi,
Some time ago I build myself a Prusa Mendel and eventually got it up and running somewhat reliable. I have not used the printer lately nor been following along with the development of repraps in general for a long time - but now I want to print again! However there are a few issues I would like to solve so the printing experience will be as enjoyable as possible.
My computer keeps loosing
by
marlaur
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General Mendel Topics
hi,
Is it anyway possible to join/weld T2.5 belts?
I can't really find any information about this - does anyone know?
by
marlaur
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Reprappers
Sublime Wrote:
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> It may be a flaw in the OBJ importer of Slic3r. I
> don't actually know of anyone that uses OBJ files,
> try exporting it as an STL and see if that fixes
> it. If it is the problem you can report the bug in
> the Slic3r repo and maybe they can fix it.
Thank you very much - that was it! ... In the world I come
by
marlaur
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Slic3r
Very interesting indeed!
Do you have any work in progress you could share, or is it too early? And what kind of skills would be required to build it?
I've been a bit hesitant to try anything out myself in fear of having molten plastic blowing into my face
by
marlaur
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Casting and Moldmaking Working Group
Could someone then please walk me through exporting a model from Maya (Or blender for that matter!)
Because making a polygon cube and then scaling it up and exporting it as an obj is clearly the wrong way to do it. And yes, the normals of the model are correct.
by
marlaur
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Slic3r
So, I must be doing something fundamentally wrong here.
I've downloaded Slic3r v0.9.3 for windows and tried to generate gcode from an OBJ exported from Maya, an OBJ from Blender and an STL downloaded from thingiverse, but each time I press the "Export G-code"-button all I get is this error:
"No layers were detected. You might want to repair your STL file and retry."
I also tried Slic3r 0.8.4
by
marlaur
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Slic3r
The hot bed PCB warp is not too bad. I've only tried to hold the PCB and glass together using my fingers around the edges, and as far as I can see the middle of the PCB is not touching the glass when I do so. I might get better results using those paper clamps that are so popular.
> Yes, the couplers I bought are the simple cut
> cylinder design. Far better than printed in my
> book
by
marlaur
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General Mendel Topics
xiando Wrote:
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> I'd place insulation around the periphery of the
> sandwiched pair. When a print is finished, you can
> remove a section and blow into it (or position a
> fan to blow into it) to cool the heated bed down
> more quickly, leading to faster release of the
> printed part.
Interesting Idea. Thoug, I would have
by
marlaur
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General Mendel Topics
Thank you!
I've been soldering all weekend and hopefully I can already start printing next weekend.
I do think I need to find some kind of insulation to put between the hot bed and the aluminium plate. The PCB is warped so it doesn't fit my glass plate.
NewPerfection Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> Final note: if you have problems with Z wobble
> (
by
marlaur
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General Mendel Topics
Hello all,
I'm now building my first reprap (mendel prusa), but I have a few questions that I haven't been able to find clear and decisive answers to.
1. Should/can thermal paste be used to help mount the thermistor and resistor on the hotend, or is kapton tape enough?
2. Is thermal paste needed when mounting the hotbed thermistor?
3. Should there be insulation under the hotbed? (The hotbed i
by
marlaur
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General Mendel Topics
Hello all,
Not long ago I came across this cheap injection moulding machine:
www.injectionmolder.net/
However, it is being made and sold in the US so buying and shipping it to the EU will be way too expensive for it to make any sense. So now my question is - does anyone here know of a similar system being sold within the EU?
Thank you.
by
marlaur
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Casting and Moldmaking Working Group