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My original printer is around 7 or 8 years old now and still uses the same filament drive. I think I made it from stainless, non hardened steel - anyway, its still operating perfectly well after all these years. For me, it's the design of the wheel that makes the difference. I made mine then and on my later printers using a tapped "V pulley" style groove - not a round groove. They exert plenty en
by
waitaki
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Mechanics
I've been using the Mega board and Ramps for 5 years without issue. It's like anything else, if its set up correctly it should perform fine. Failures do occur of course but there's failures in all of the different flavours of boards I've seen - nothing is 100% infallible. Yes,a fully integrated board is nice on the eye but a failure of a component can render the whole circuit board scrap.
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
You haven't told us what your nozzle gap is set at and if your bed has been truly leveled? Major contributors to print problems if they are not correct.
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
Doing "something for nothing" is no way to run a business.
Loss leaders are fine if you are manufacturing something like, for example, inkjet printers.
I have had no issues with Chinese bearings over the last 5 years - never replaced any of them on my equipment (there probably are some crap ones online though).
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
What is their URL?
by
waitaki
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Printing
There's nothing wrong with leaving the extruder fan on - what harm can it do?
by
waitaki
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RAMPS Electronics
I guess you are using PLA? I make my own hot ends based on the E3D design - with some differences but.. I print mainly in ABS.
PLA can cause havoc in many types of hot-end and I wouldn't be surprised if the Prometheus has its problems also -not that I would know. If I use PLA, I am very concious of the fact that it can't be left hanging around in the heater block. To this end, I get the heated b
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
Even 190 seems too high for PLA - I go with the "standard" 185C when printing that plastic. Having said that, I rarely use PLA these days. When I do, I set the nozzle to 185C and the bed at 60C. I also use clear glass (no tape or glues etc) but I first clean the glass thoroughly with glass cleaner, wipe it dry, then, with a fresh piece of kitchen paper towel, vigorously rub the glass surface prio
by
waitaki
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Prusa i3 and variants
I would disconnect the heatbed thermistor connector that plugs into the mainboard then plug another thermistor into the mainboard (just hanging in the "breeze" above the motherboard) and see what you get -
a 100k resistor would probably do if you are short of a thermo.
If the power supply stays on, you will know what to do next!
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
Quotecwaa
I am not trying to start an argument, but two years ago I was trying to decide what hot end to put on my new printer. I chose the Prometheus. I have yet to have it clog or jam. I am now printing in two colors with it as well.
Not sure that's gonna help the original poster!
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
Printer went in circles?
by
waitaki
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Printing
the one on the left looks like the top layer!
by
waitaki
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Printing
Quote: The nice thing about PEI is that the adhesion can be tuned by using bed temperature. I find 105/100 or so to work quite well for ABS. You're way too high at 115, and at that temperature you'll get lower wall cave-in, which is why I prefer PEI to PrintBite, at least for printing ABS. Unquote
I can attest to this having recently purchased some PEI sheet myself. I found that after setting
by
waitaki
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General
I would agree with Obewan
by
waitaki
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Printing
10mm?
Crikey!
The extruder was almost certainly unable to keep up. Where on earth did you get that setting from?
by
waitaki
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Printing
Disconnect the wiring to the heatbed then measure the resistance at the heatbed terminals and see what you get. If you are using a RAMPS board, check the green power connector (that plugs into D8) for burn marks - that would indicate cables not being tightened sufficiently.
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
Dunno about the effects of a baud rate of 250k but it would be easy to set the rate at 115200 and see what you get. Incorrect settings can definitely cause missed steps and communication probs.
by
waitaki
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RAMPS Electronics
Sounds like a transparency for use on a printer!
If its not PEI, then I assume it was dirt cheap?
However, I read a long while back that someone used transparencies of some sort as a bed material. Maybe you should try it?
by
waitaki
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Printing
oops, wrong thread..
by
waitaki
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Printing
That's your end g-code?
by
waitaki
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Printing
Did you remember to go into "settings", "options", "user interface" in Pronterface and 'check' the two temp graph boxes?
by
waitaki
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Printrun/Pronterface
I meant to also suggest previously - have you got both your printing software and your com port set to 115200?
by
waitaki
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RAMPS Electronics
If the stepper drivers are "stepstick". then they probably need 0.8v
by
waitaki
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RAMPS Electronics
.delete - wrong post!
by
waitaki
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Printing
See if this helps...
by
waitaki
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Printing
As DMould suggested, your nozzle height may be set too high initially. To set it up before any printing is done do the following...
Heat the bed up to working temp and the hotend to around 180C.
Home the Z axis while laying a strip of 80gsm copy paper between the nozzle and print bed - you should feel it drag slightly to give the correct gap setting.
by
waitaki
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Slic3r
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