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hi,
the main diff is the smell ie. using ABS - had to move it into another room. but ABS is great stuff. (am going to use ABS for my real production runs too).
loudness - haven't thought about it much as is not an issue for me but I think it is probably a bit louder but is in a cabinet so you can close the doors - cabinet is great ie. keeps nice and warm.
speed - again don't even think about it
by
rogerw
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General
hi guys
are you enjoying fixing all these problems , tinkering etc of do you just want to be able to print stuff?
I buggered around with stuffmaker for 12 mths with all the probs above.
I got a Mini Up - say twice as much but about 50 times better - it just works - no nozzle hassles, no cold end probs, no warped boards, etc, etc.
anyway thats just my experience.
roger.
by
rogerw
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General
hi yeah it was fun to learn on but just was failing too often - had to watch it like a hawk. esp first 2 layers.
obviously repraps are a good thing for people who know electronics and all that and would be satisfying to build from scratch but at the moment I just need a printer that will work 99% of the time and that is what the UP does. I am developing a product and am moving into the load testi
by
rogerw
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General
Hi all,
I bought a machine from here a year or 18 months ago. See my posts above. It had a few problems but I found the support people very willing to help. In the end I think I was having lots of hot end problems and was struggling to get reliable prints. I need even more prints done (run 24/7) and so got a UP Mini - unbelievable machine.
Regards,
Roger.
by
rogerw
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General
well seeing the cold end seems a bit rooted I though I would play with the nozzle and try to manually push dome black PLA thru.
was sitting on 205 degree. pushed and it flowed thru really easily hardly and pressure for 5 seconds or so and then blobbed up and could not push thru at all.
too hot?
by
rogerw
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General
hi
have tried the above extruder test and noticed that the extruder would 'slip' when pressure was applied and so not all X mm
of filament came out.
got down to the point were I have the servo off the extruder (see photo) and grabbed the little gear with my fingers
(pretty tight but nothing crazy).
the servo (axle) seems to slip and not turn when I have the pressure on ie. turn, slip, turn, sl
by
rogerw
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General
will try to check the extruder (cold end) by just running filament thru it and try to push the filament back into it ie. apply a bit of resistance.
check that it extrudes the correct amount of mm/min for different settings, etc.
if that is all OK then start to look at the nozzle.
roger
by
rogerw
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General
have had lots of instances where the nozzle blocks, i pause the print, pull the filament out (sometimes hard to do), cut off the semi molten bit, then feed it in again and will get good flow. seems the 1st layer being squashed into the deck causes this blockage. (any higher and not good adhesion)
then the 2nd layer burbs and farts along - some good thick lines and then skinny ones
just need so
by
rogerw
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General
hi james thanks
yes did have some good white PLA.
but then they sent me some brittle white PLA - no good
then they send me some clear PLA to replace that - no good
then there was a 8 week wait (still waiting) for the (hopefully) original PLA
in the meantime I order some more PLA from an australian supplier (instead of straight from india)
all these didn't seem to work as good as the original whi
by
rogerw
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General
Hi all,
Have had my printer for 9 months or so now I suppose.
Was going OK but now I can't print anything - have lost my printing mojo.
Some prints look good and then crumble apart (too cold?).
Some prints have failed half way thru leaving a sandpapery top layer (too hot?)
Have so many different batches of PLA that I don't know which is which anymore.
Dont' seem to get any really nice thick heal
by
rogerw
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General
hi all
had success last night after slowing down the travel speed to 30 instead 130. moved the fan position as well but don't think it was that.
have attached the photo of the good print and bad one. the bad one has been 'hit' several times and the x carriage must have slipped some each time. once it got past the overhang part it printed straight up as normal again. i need to print another o
by
rogerw
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General
interesting reading tsb4k - thanks for putting that together.
normally overhangs are not a problem but this part is 200mm wide and the overhangs are at each end.
the head gets a real run up zooming from side to side and whacks into the very slight upturn on the overhang.
have tried adding some 'fake' walls inbetween the sides (.4 thk) but it likes to print the perim and them zoom back to the fi
by
rogerw
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General
hi james - the 'hit' occurs high up say layer 100 - it doesn't knock the part off the plate - is still stuck on ok
it seems to hit the lip of the overhang and then some how get out of whack - may a slip on the belts.
will attach a picture tonight.
roger.
ps. I bullclip the apart down on the 1mm thick tabs shown. if i phsically hold the part down it will not warp. no heat bed.
by
rogerw
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General
thanks james, have extrusion multiplier in slicer - will try that. roger
by
rogerw
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General
hi all,
will try to increase the flow rate first I think (fixing backlash sounds a bit scarier)
on repitier I have a feedrate and a flow rate multiplier - do I set one or both or ???
thanks,
roger.
by
rogerw
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General
hi all,
have had this problem a couple of times now - but need to work out a solution now.
in the attached part the plastic on the overhang dries in such a away that each layer sticks or curls up a bit.
when the nozzle zooms across after drawing the opposite sides perim to do the fill it hits the curled up edge and whacks the x carriage
out of line. part ends up having a shift in it.
current pla
by
rogerw
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General
hello all, I am printing with two perimeters and then solid fill
on one end of the fill line it will touch the perimeter line nicely .
on the other it is slightly short leaving a gap.
this means the the perim easily peels off when I have finished my part.
could somebody please help
regards roger.
by
rogerw
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General
just do the Contact Person thing to get support and find out what is happening with your ticket.
my perspex Extruder also broke which they replaced (superglued in the mean time) - in the end I have found you only need light pressure on the extruder to work best.
(i find that the little plastic arm lets the pressure off well when doing the first layer and maybe not a lot of plastic is coming out.
by
rogerw
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General
your banks seemed to 'self regulate' pretty well - NOT - now we are all in the shit hole
by
rogerw
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General
even if you somehow did clean up the crime and made everyone healthy and happy you would still have the people
who want a gun to rise up against the govt - and these seem to be the ones with the big guns.
how many people would have guns for this reason do you think. if there was no street crime how many of the 80 million would still
be retained to rise up against the govt.?
by
rogerw
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General
dan,
i agree. too many people with no hope and no money will turn to drugs and crime and violence.
i think i can understand how you guys feel from what i have been reading.
it seems things in parts of the U.S. are a bit out of control with violence.
Its same here in some places but not large scale and the police are very good, well respected, and go ape if anything really bad happens.
do you l
by
rogerw
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General
Everyone on this forum on the guns side seems very rational and that's great - very good at putting fwd their points for defence, etc.
When i was a kid my mother married 5 diff blokes and 'entertained' many more - shes a complete nutter. The blokes she brought around
where complete nutter who owned guns.
Perhaps they have a right to defend themselves, etc but what about my right to live without t
by
rogerw
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General
thanks bob
i have been using 50% which somebody suggested.
tried 20% the other day for something (flat piece) and it work good too.
basically am printing (fancy) boxes* - need a value that is ok on the flat bottom (4-5mm thick ie. 25 layers or so) and then when it starts printing the vertical walls (4mm and 2mm thick) will be a bit more solid. the 50% seems to go to almost solid when the wa
by
rogerw
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General
tried to print it again last night and failed. i turned the fan off before i went to bed thinking it was cool night but obviously still needed it as it wasn't making any contact in the morning - just printing in mid air.
my latest theory is that i .... wait for it ... melted the part causing it to go wavy.
i have a desk lamp that i keep really close to get some heat into my bed (don;t have heat
by
rogerw
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polygonhell,
yes i wouldn't be surprised if that is it - have had issues of it bind at the top before (one side gets stuck a bit on the servo) but has been ok for a long while - might be back.
thanks will give it a go.
roger
by
rogerw
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General
polygonhell can that happen just at a certain height? it seems to just start the wave at the top15mm (is 75mm tall).
am going to try to put those half circle stiffeners (currently on side) on the top as well and see if that makes any diff?
thanks
roger.
by
rogerw
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General
hi,thanks for that great example. haven't read it all yet but will - got the gist.
do you think such a thing would happen in the USA today?
i'm pretty sure it would not happen here today because of a strong media. the media love to hound pollies doing something wrong. using their cars or travel for the wrong thing. and that just the ambulance chaser/i slept with an alien current affairs shows. t
by
rogerw
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General
also the design has the top face of the part having a slight incline - 2 degrees - and is the first couple of times i have printed in black.
by
rogerw
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General
wobble - 11 years ago
hi all,
am printing the attached box thing (like stage1 of a rocket). i have a 4mm wall flanging down to 2mm to connect to the next stage.
have previous done this ok. with rounded corners which strengthens everything up.
this part needs to be straight at the top (curved at the bottom).
am getting this wave in the top.
do you think it is because it is straight?
will be hard for me to design it ag
by
rogerw
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General
thanks have_blue,
i don;t know my plastics very well (except for PLA ).
i am making a product and know how much it costs to make in PLA but want a rough idea how much it would cost
in production (just plastic that is) ie. need to work out if it will be $1 or $10 a part. (moulds are usually made in china but extrusion is done locally).
the attached photo shows the type of plastic i want - the lon
by
rogerw
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General
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