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Hello,
I looking for a way to configure a silc3r profile without any extruders. What I want is motion in XYZ without any extruder control. Some thing I have tried:
Disconnect the stepper motor and heater - low temperature extrusion prevented
Disconnect just the stepper motor - This works but the heater is on so this isn't very elegant
Ideally the solution would be to generate Gcode without any
by
mikh3x4
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Slic3r
If someone stumbles across this thread later what solved it for me was reducing the extrusion width. It simply seams like my filament didn't like the think width slic3r was automaticly forcing
by
mikh3x4
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Printing
Surprisingly this issue is still visible with ABS, although not on the entire area but in certain spots. Same with SLic3r version 1.2.1 and 1.1.7. Still no solution
by
mikh3x4
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Printing
The picture wasn't loading for me. For the description it sounds like your y or x motors could be skipping steps. This can be caused by to high of a mechanical resistance on the axis (read not smooth enough) or something of with the current settings on your drivers. Last time I had it happen to me the motor's were getting too much current. Usually the current going to the motor is adjusted with a
by
mikh3x4
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Printing
Ok. Did some more testing:
-The extruder was not clogged everything is good. Hobbled bolt is clean
-Manually inputting extrusion width seams to make the issue less visible but it still is there. On low extrusion width gaps between infill and perimeter are visible
-Spool is turing freely with little resistance
I'll try going back to ABS and seeing if the issue goes away
by
mikh3x4
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Printing
Yes I've measured the filament using digital calipers and plugged an average of a couple measurements in. My machine uses 3 mm filament (actually closer to 2.9 mm) and has a 0.4 mm nozzle. I'm printing at 0.3 mm layer height (0.35 first layer) and the extrusion widths at slic3r defaults. Same settings worked for other filaments. This is PLA-D not sure what the D is, the recommended temperature in
by
mikh3x4
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Printing
Hello, recently switched to PLA after printing a while with ABS.
I keep getting gaps in my infill regardless of my esteps, extrusion multiplier, temperature, fan, no fan. The measured perimeter width and the theoretical values agree, so I'm leaning towards blaming this on Slic3r, but the same settings worked wonders for ABS. Regardless I treid changing them and still haven't managed to eliminated
by
mikh3x4
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Printing
Ignore this post. I missed all 5 pages. Stupid me
by
mikh3x4
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Slic3r
I have entered the correct nozzle size 0.5mm (I have measured it to make sure it is as advertised). I tried calibrating the perimeter width using the guide on the wiki, but the problem persisted. I also believe slic3r takes into account the extrusion width so it shouldn't have an impact. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, this is just what I noticed.
Here's all relevant settings in Slic3r
by
mikh3x4
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Printing
I tried using Cura. The issue is still there. It's not a issue with X/Y steps I measured the amount of movement and it was perfect. Problem with X/Y steps would make both holes and outer dimensions smaller or larger. For me the holes are too small and the outer dimensions too large. I have no idea what to do. Someone please help
by
mikh3x4
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Printing
I calibrated filament diameter (measured in 5 different places and averaged)
I calibrated my e-step got around 807 on a gregs wade using RAMPs
If I set Extrusion multiplier in slicer to 1 i get a nice solid infill but my parts don't fit together nicely. Holes are too small and the outside is too big.
I followed this guide to calibrate my extrusion multiplier in slic3r and got 0.85
Now if I print
by
mikh3x4
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Printing
Hello there, I have a issue calibrating the extrusion multiplier in slic3r. If its too high ~1 my parts don't fit together - i need around 0.6mm tolerance. But i've seen people on thingiverse getting flush parts to fit, and this is very annoying when downloading as a lot of them don't work of them because of this. On the other hand around 0.85 my solid infill has gaps between the single extrusion
by
mikh3x4
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Printing
I know this is a old thread but to anyone coming from a search engine here how I solved my problem. Spray the build platform with hairspray. Careful when removing the objects after printing not to damage them! I don't use hapton tape anymore as it always came of with the object anyways
by
mikh3x4
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General
The following two wiki pages speak of the same issue but they have opposite recommendations:
The first says to increase perimeter width over thickness if holes too small, and the second one to decrease it
Which one is correct?
by
mikh3x4
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Reprappers
Thank You very much for the elaborate answer. Yes I have noticed that the RAMPs board can't handle the bed at high (100C+) temperatures, now I know why. I'll try operating it at higher temperatures and see what happens. Thank You again for sharing you trouble shooting information.
by
mikh3x4
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General
It's hard to say to what effect do the methods (sanding the kapton tape and changing the heatbed temperatures) work. The parts with the tips seam more warped, but that might perhaps be because I could manage to finish printing the without unsticking. The only reason it was possible to do that is that I paused it mid-print and physically kapton-taped the print to the heatbed, and cut of the exes a
by
mikh3x4
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General
I have zero experience with the sanguinololu board however I have noticed than you can't upload firmware to RAMPs 1.3 if it's currently connected to Pronterface (I wouldn't think this is the case because you can't get the firmware on for the first time, right?). Anyway you probably know this but I'll just put i out to be sure. Is the correct board/port selected in the Arduino IDE? Also from my ex
by
mikh3x4
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General
Wow, thank you all for the quick responses, yes I did know about the brim option, it did help with smaller objects, but in extreme cases it didn't stop the object from warping. I've never heard of the method of sanding the tape, it seams as it would work. As for the lowering the temperature of the heatbed, i always assumed the higher the temperature the better the adhesion. Anyway it getting late
by
mikh3x4
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General
My 100k termoresistor is placed just below the mirror. It sticks out a bit so it touches the mirror from below.
by
mikh3x4
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General
I'm sure you answered this question many times before, but do you have any tips for elimination warping (preferably without using acetone)
I printing in ABS with the extruder temp @215C and the heatbed @100C. I have a mirror coated with kapton, on top of the MK2 heatbed, and wool for insulation underneath.
Despite all this I still get significant warping on the corners of even large prints and th
by
mikh3x4
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General
Sorry for being so unspecific when describing the problem. It's not that my print quality is off It improved when it played with the settings as recommended), but the printed part don't fit together. On the calibration page it said it has something to do with the perimeter width, but playing with this setting I obtained no results and the part still seam not to fit. Im attaching a image of the V2
by
mikh3x4
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General
I'm not sure maybe somebody figured this out before me, but i new to the hobby so bare with me. If your printing a small part and having problems from sticking it to the heatbed (or non-heat bed), you could I Slic3r set a couple of "skirts" with a distance of zero to help with the sticking. Worked like a charm for me
by
mikh3x4
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Reprappers
Yes that's my point. Is the apparently better quality due to the replicator machine or because of the calibration of my printer. If its my printer calibrato. Is there anyway to improve it? I have done most of the things on the reprap wiki calibration page, and print quality is still funky
by
mikh3x4
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General
On many thingiverse pages I've noticed people saying "You're probobly gona need a stepstruder to print this". I have also noticed that their print quality seams far superior to mine on a MendelMax with a Greg's extruder. Is this because of the being better or my printer being badly calibrated?
by
mikh3x4
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General