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Quotealexgibson3d
Interesting thread to read through.
Do any of you who are converting machines have any left-over MakerBot electronics - dead or alive (or in between!) that you might be willing to donate to a project I'm running to create a drop-in Mightyboard replacement for the Rep2/2X?
I've just successfully restored several machines, but one was completely missing its motherboard and would
by
Ohmarinus
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General
So, I'm working on Octoprint with an SKR 1.4T and Marlin 2.0.8.1
All runs fine, I am currently about to attach everything, but there is one issue I'm running into and that's working out the Gcode.
I need a way to pause a print from Octoprint to manually do a toolchange/penchange (I'm running a penplotter, not a 3D printer), do some small calibration to make sure the pen is in the same spot as th
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Ohmarinus
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Firmware - Marlin
Hello Reprappers! I did do research this a bit but got stuck here:
(also asked this in the Discord, but realized the ephemerality of questions there)
I am looking to add a few physical buttons to my custom machine, using an SKR 1.4T with Octoprint. I'm now using digital buttons on Octoprint, I already managed to make those, but I think it would be awesome if I could at least add around five phys
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Ohmarinus
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Firmware - Marlin
Quotealeksandarpu
What do you do?
Do you short connect GND and signal pins (1 and 3 on diagram)?
Hi I'm sorry, it's been a while, I'll have to check out how I did it.. Sorry if my update was vague about what I changed exactly.
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Ohmarinus
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Controllers
QuoteLordOfTheBatch
Ohmarinus, thank you very much for sharing!
I have just started converting my Replicator 2 yesterday and already found some helpful hints from your thread.
My setup is (or better will be) SKR3 v1.4 Turbo, TMC2208, TFT35 v3, BLTouch V3.0, ESP01S Wifi, DCDC MOD V1.0, BTMOS V2.0.
So far I replaced the connectors, integrated the TFT display and made all three axis + extruder m
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Ohmarinus
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General
Quoteguru_florida
On long prints, I'm finding it tough to manage the heat creap vs ABS warpage (and popping off the plate). It's like threading the eye of a needle temp wise. I'm strongly thinking of going in your direction with the bowden tube and external extruder. I added little tiny fans to steppers and no go. My other alternative is to convert some of my carriage to metal (I have the stock a
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Ohmarinus
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General
Quoteybanrab
Funny enough, I'm designing a large format pen-plotter currently and have dropped the idea of CoreXY for exactly the same reasons you state.
I'm currently thinking of going dual-motor for the Y axis for simplicity. One issue I was thinking of with using a rod to drive both sides of the Y with a single motor would be how much twist a 5mm rod would take. I don't have a sense for that
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Ohmarinus
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Mechanics
Sooo, basically I'm looking for inspiration on how to build the X-axis.
At first I wanted to go for CoreXY, but I realized the belt path would be over 5 meters in length, resulting in a lot of issues with precision. So I moved to a classic design.
This is my current frame design, with the X-axis being moved by the Nema17 motors in the bottom and left corner on the render:
Now, I'm wondering,
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Ohmarinus
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Mechanics
Quotesoftfoot
Hi, I need to buy some (4) new 8MM smooth rods of up to 500mm in length.
Can someone please suggest somewhere I can buy reasonable quality ones at a reasonable price and shipping (I'm in the UK).
Best regards,
Dave
I'm not an affiliate of this seller, but I just remembered their shop:
Maybe they can help you out.
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Ohmarinus
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Mechanics
Hi all, I'm trying to work out the coupling to a SBM, Raspberry Pi, but I'm running into an issue. I cannot see clearly what goes where when looking at this image:
Is there a higher resolution image available of this? I Googled all over, but it was impossible to find.
Update:
Meanwhile I figured it out, have some nice cables running now, I don't know if it's my laptop's screen, but I found it
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Ohmarinus
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Ah, the link to the configurator in the opening post pointed to a 404 error page. Thanks for sharing!
ps I'm using as a 'guide' on how to install things and couldn't find a link to the configurator there.
Okay, so the configurator works quite nicely, thanks for that. I'm currently working on a DIY pen plotter (second version) and want to give RRF a try. Does anyone know of some useful resour
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Ohmarinus
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I see the configurator doesn't exist anymore. I'm quite new to RRF 3 and I'm currently trying to build firmware for my SKR 1.4 which will be used for a pen plotter with SBC. Is there any place you advise me to look for tips on how to configure the firmware for my machine? I haven't been able to find good examples for my setup.
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Ohmarinus
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Quoteguru_florida
Hey Ohmarinus! How is the machine running now?
I am considering moving to single extruder and bowden-pusher instead of my extruder on the carriage. I just find dual extrusion such a pain to tune and 95% of the time I just want single head. Also, my glass plate cracked a bit (my own fault) and although it still works fine for now I am thinking PEI sheet is in order. What are you
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Ohmarinus
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General
Hi, I'm working on my DIY pen plotter again, trying to improve some artifacts that are present in my drawings. Now my machine is designed to do high speed drawing, but at the beginning and end of each line the lines have some squiggle in them.
I tried raising jerk settings to 15, lowering accelleration from 3000 to 1500 but this didn't improve anything. Then I realized my gcode was fully generat
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Ohmarinus
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Firmware - Marlin
Quoteekaggrat
i have been playing around with a core t as it is called . i made a mistake of moving the entore gantry up for the z axis which i have recently changed. overall it is better to use linear rails
video
Linear rails, definitely. The wheels of the V-slot roller will wear faster and unevenly in this cantilever design. The wheels on the hotend side will wear faster on the bottom edge, a
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Ohmarinus
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Mechanics
QuoteRoberts_Clif
Yes!!!
My sample was used on an earlier version of Marlin 2.x.x
I see the information got you on the right track this is always good..
With the never versions of Marlin I only use These two lines.
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 6
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y 6
It sometimes drives me crazy that the variable name are always changing.
Looks like the change is
QuoteFirmware Not
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Ohmarinus
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Firmware - Marlin
Oh I found it, it's in Config_advanced and it's even different from what you posted haha.
#if PROBE_SELECTED && !IS_KINEMATIC
//#define PROBING_MARGIN_LEFT PROBING_MARGIN
//#define PROBING_MARGIN_RIGHT PROBING_MARGIN
//#define PROBING_MARGIN_FRONT PROBING_MARGIN
//#define PROBING_MARGIN_BACK PROBING_MARGIN
#endif
I think this is what I need to change. So confusing that they app
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Ohmarinus
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Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoberts_Clif
Looks like they changed MIN_PROBE_EDGE to PROBING_MARGIN In Marlin 2.0.7
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 6
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y 6
// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
//#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT PROBING_MARGIN + 10
//#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT (X_BED_SIZE - (PROBING_MARGIN + 10))
//#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT PROBING_MARGIN + 15 // 28
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Ohmarinus
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Firmware - Marlin
Hi, I have been figuring out that I'm doing something wrong. Using a custom built Prusa MK2S with a MK52 heated bed.
I'm using #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR in Marlin 2.0.6.1 and need to define four spots for the machine to probe because I'm using an MK52 bed which has magnets that interfere with the readings of the PINDA probe.
I've found a guide that says I need to set these values:
#de
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Ohmarinus
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Firmware - Marlin
QuoteDust
Your screwed. No controller has bluetooth.
Some have hacked on bluetooth module on to a serial port. But only as a serial interface over bluetooth.
What about using a cheap controller like Ramps and then using the leftover money to buy a Raspberry Pi 3 Model B to run OctoPrint/OctoPi. Doesn't that support bluetooth? I don't know.. But it sounds like a nice way around if possible.
Ne
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Ohmarinus
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Controllers
Looks to me like the nozzle temp is related to the bed temp. It waits for the bed to reach full temp before it continues heating the nozzle. This is probably to reduce stationary plastic getting heated for too long in the nozzle, preventing clogs.
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Ohmarinus
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General
It could be the MOSFET, easy to replace. You don't have to get a new board, no worries. You should try checking the MOSFET, I don't know how, maybe another member can explain it to you. Anyway, these FET's are cheap, so worth a try. Don't forget to get an upgrade then. I think you can replace it with a IRLB8743?
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Ohmarinus
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Reprappers
Quoteianch
Argh!!!
I'm confused....
I'm looking at the page GADGET3D Shield
On that page it says to edit the file pins_RAMPS_14.h but on the latest version of Marlin 2 there is no such file.
So the question is where should I put all those #defines for the Gadget3D shield pins?
No worries, it's now called the 'pins_RAMPS.h' file. However, I do not remember having to specifically edit the pins
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Ohmarinus
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Firmware - Marlin
Quoteianch
Hi
From the M503 command, which of values marry up to the values in the configuration.h file.
Yes, I've got the Gadget3D display as well
Do you have configuration.h and configuration_adv.h files that you can share, please?
I mean values such as acceleration, printbed dimensions, steps/mm, etc. These are machine-specific sadly and I only have the Ramps and LCD, not the entire machin
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Ohmarinus
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Firmware - Marlin
I have a G3D board and it works fine with Marlin, you just need to get the settings right. You can retrieve a lot of setting from the EEPROM so start there. Connect it through serial and type M503 to display the values.
Don't forget to set the G3D panel in the LCD section is you have that one, it's different from the normal Ramps and uses one more set of AUX pins.
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Ohmarinus
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Firmware - Marlin
QuotePlasmaOne
I’m using NEMA 23 (4.2Arms 3Nm), now being powered by drivers that can deliver up to 4 A.
I tried this version of SKR 1.3:
PoPrint SKR V1.3 32-bit CPU
I’d like to go with something very good, even spending a little more.
If you're willing to spend some, maybe a Duet3D would be suitable. I believe I've read that they can run Nema23 motors.
This is way above my level of knowledge
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Ohmarinus
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Controllers
Quoteatmark
Well, the extruder isn't quite yet ready, since we have put much work into the printer during spring/summer. But we are getting close. There aren't that much of issues to be solved before we get to print.
Here's the latest clip of the extruder & pellet transport system working
Very impressive. You should take a look at Dirk van der Kooij's work. He also has quite an interesting
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Ohmarinus
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Hangprinter
Yes, by either crimping the controller ends of the wires and screw them down, and by adding these metal flat pieces with a hole (also crimp connectors) in the center on the PSU side, so that the screw of the PSU goes through it and clamps it down. I believe this is the best way and it's the intended way.
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Ohmarinus
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Delta Machines
What kind of motors are you using? I would like to suggest to take a look at the TMC2209 motor drivers which, from the top of my head can supply a whopping 2.5A peak. I honestly feel Mach3 components are a bit outdated and bulky. I only know them from older CNC machines but have never used them so I'm prejudiced/biased without having real life experience with them.
I have both SKR 1.3 and 1.4 an
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Ohmarinus
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Controllers
SKR 1.4 is perfect, 32-bits, runs on 24v, has the ability to control everything you need. It's cheap and versatile. Don't forget to also get either an LCD panel with SD slot or a TFT screen with SD slot. I would recommend the LCD over the TFT touchscreen because the touchscreen is a real hassle to setup.
I'm not sure about the GPIO but there are many pins leftover that you can of course either u
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Ohmarinus
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Controllers
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