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I needed a bunch of 5 volt sources and the limit switches were all being used
I solved this by installing a couple DC - DC converters on my 24 volt power supply
I have 24 volts, 12 volts and 5 volt supplies now
by
EL34
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Smoothie
I finally got some time to get back on my picker machine build
Here's what I need to do
I am setting up a dual axis Y and open drain is not working for me with my smoothie board
My smoothie board motor driver outputs 3.3 volts
My TB6600 stepper driver requires 5 volts
So I purchased a few Logic leveler boards to step up the 3.3v to 5v
I have never used them before and I want to make sure I a
by
EL34
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Smoothie
Mystery solved
M4 was dead on this smoothie board
I ended up using an external driver paralleled to the Y axis (M2) on the smoothie board
Got it all running perfectly
I shot a video of the twin Y axis in motion
Here’s the youtube video link of my build
by
EL34
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Smoothie
I Think I found the info
M4 is called delta
M5 is called epsilon
by
EL34
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Smoothie
My version 1.1 - 5 axis smoothie board will be controlling a Pick and Place machine
I have one X axis ball screw - M1
I have two Y axis ball screws - M2 and M4
m2 and M4 will be slaved together
I have one Z axis ball screw - M3
I have one left over axis M5, that will have a small stepper attached later to operate a component feeder device
I have already jumpered the pins below on the smooth
by
EL34
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Smoothie
I finally had time to mess with the printer again
I increased the retraction from 2mm to 4mm and printed the 5 objects again
They came out way better with the extra retraction
Thanks for the help
by
EL34
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Slic3r
I am thinking that it is now warmer in my shop than during the winter and the PLA starts off warmer
I noticed that the printer is coming up to operating temp very quickly right now compared to a month ago
I have not had time to check the retraction settings yet
Hopefully in the next couple days
Thanks for all the help
by
EL34
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Slic3r
I will try increasing the 2mm retraction length and see what happens
What about the minimum travel setting?
Hard for me to wrap my mind around that setting
by
EL34
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Slic3r
Hmm, check out my screen shot
This is how the extruder is currently set
by
EL34
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Slic3r
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Turn on retraction?
I'm looking in Slic3r and don't see anything that says retraction and is unchecked
Where is this setting in Slic3r
What tab and text?
by
EL34
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Slic3r
This is a new problem that I did not have last time I printed multiple objects
(see the pic)
See the pla strings between the 5 objects
It's like the extractor is still extracting as it moves to each object
I don't know if it's the new 1.75mm PLA I just installed
I measured it at 1.75mm and set Slic3r for 1.75mm
Or the new Slic3r I just installed (1.2.9.a)
Can anyone tell me how to fix this?
by
EL34
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Slic3r
I am still confused as to how the set screw rides on the washer and adjust the bearing play
How big is the washer and how big is the set screw?
by
EL34
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
I am all set on my printer.
I am not using V-Slot, I use 20mm T-slot rails
My V-slot idea was just an experiment to see what I could come up with
Your idea sounds fun, are you going to make one and test it?
I custom made UHWM bearings for my printer that ride on 20mm T-slot rails
They slide like glass and are very smooth
See the attached image
by
EL34
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
I did not see a topic here or on Github regarding this
I added 3 of the same parts.stl files to Slic3r
Then pulled them into horizontal alignment, side by side using the alignment lines that surround the 3 parts
They appear to be perfectly aligned when viewing the Plater display
When printing, the middle part is shifted up a bit and not aligned horizontally with the two outside parts.
This was
by
EL34
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Slic3r
Thanks for the updated link
I see why I missed the topic now, the subject was not what I expected
That's great news that it has been fixed
testing the output code now with the replaced character
With the E replaced with an A, Mach3 is printing happily as we speak
by
EL34
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Slic3r
Quotejustcurious
done
I looked on github but could not find this issue reported
Has it been reported?
Don't want to do iot if it has already been done.
Looking at the Gcode again this morning it looks like the code line that contain an E just need to be replaced with an A
Example before
G1 F3000.000 A22.38037
G0 X-9.524 Y4.803 F3000.000
G1 E23.38037 F3000.000
G1 X-9.946 Y4.782 A23.39474 F30
by
EL34
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Slic3r
Having an issue here also with Mach3 and Slic3r 1.0.0RC1
Slic3r is creating lines of Gcode that have the letter E, Like the middle line shown below
This was not an issue with previous versions of Slic3r
Mach3 will not run the line with the E code shown below
And the E code appears many times through the Gcode file
G0 X-1.736 Y1.788 F4200.000
G1 E75.61461 F3000.000
G1 X-5.322 Y-1.798 A75.78876
by
EL34
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Slic3r
yeah, they would have to circulate is what I am thinking.
And the balls need to be smaller in order to keep the body size small.
Not much can be done with the current design.
It was just a fun idea I had
by
EL34
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
I have one of my printers for sale on Ebay
I don't have room in my shop for two printers so one has to go
This printer made many of the parts for my 2nd printer
You can my ebay listing here
This page has build info and lots of pics
by
EL34
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For Sale
I have this printer for sale on Ebay
I don't have room in my shop for two printers so one has to go
This printer made many of the parts for my 2nd printer
You can my ebay listing here
This page has build info and lots of pics
by
EL34
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
I uploaded a youtube vid of the printer printing and some of the objects I have printed
by
EL34
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
Hi, yes,
I designed the machine from scratch.
Many of the parts were designed in CAD and printed on my 1st printer or cut on my CNC machine
After building one from scratch and using it for a while, I had a good idea how to improve many aspects of the design.
I took my time and planned design number two over a couple months
I wasn't in any hurry and so I took my time and thought out every aspe
by
EL34
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
I refined the 3D printer #1 build after using it for a while and built printer #2 based on those refinements
Printer #2 came out really nice and is printing very clean objects compared to the first pics I posted on printer #1
This design uses 20mm T-slots and my DIY 20mm T-slot linear bearings
I set up a build page here with big pics and lots of info
And here is a Youtube video with a walk a
by
EL34
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
Thanks Mark,
I'll send it out today
The combo of all the items it takes to make a T slot linear bearing gets really expensive
You need the aluminum housing, 3 x Pads, 6 x screws and several shims
Your V-slot rails should make it much cheaper for people
by
EL34
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
You are welcome to have the one I made, just let me know where and who to send it to
You sent me the V-slot material which was very nice of you and so I am returning the favor.
If you can find UHMW balls, give it a go.
I could only find Delrin at Mcmaster or maybe I found UHMW balls and they were too expensive
Can't remember because I ordered the balls a long time ago and just got around to usin
by
EL34
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
Yo mark,
I finally had some time to mess with the ball idea in order to create a much smaller bearing block
1st problem is you can not use metal ball bearings against aluminum
2nd problem is that the balls will not rotate unless they are able to circulate out the end, around in a circle and come back in the other end.
This is how high end linear bearings work. The balls can make a complete cir
by
EL34
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
I saw a Linux post somewhere, can't remember where.
You can run on Linux but I don't remember what flavor it was.
by
EL34
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Controllers
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