Show all posts by user

Re: "No SD Card" - 3 years ago

I have noticed, that after it warmed up, it would have less problems. So maybe the solder joints have become loose.

by RRuser - Printing

"No SD Card" - 3 years ago

Been getting this more lately, and now the card (and new test cards) are not recognized even after repeated in/out attempts, contact cleanings, wiggles, etc. It does show "Card Inserted", but when trying to print it then shows "No SD Card". In general is there something else to look at, beside suspecting the pcb ?

by RRuser - Printing

Re: Preview of layer above - 8 years ago

No one knows about the preview setting?

by RRuser - Slic3r

Preview of layer above - 8 years ago

On 1.2.9 when previewing layers, it shows you a shaded view of the layer above the one you are looking at. I remember there being a setting somewhere that turns this feature off, but can't find it.

by RRuser - Slic3r

Modifiers affecting areas outside the modifier area, for 1.2.9 - 8 years ago

Trying modifiers for the first time, to change vertical shells to 2 inside the modifier, when outside they are 1. Works properly inside the modifier, but vertical shells are now 2 outside the modifier too.

by RRuser - Slic3r

Re: Prusa I3 psique CREATEC (première fois ) - 8 years ago

Very nice. I removed one of the spring-screws in the Wades extruder, so the filament would not be compressed as much.

by RRuser - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone

Re: Prusa I3 psique CREATEC (première fois ) - 8 years ago

The sounds from the Z will go away after a while.

by RRuser - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone

Re: Prusa I3 psique CREATEC (première fois ) - 8 years ago

Why the acme rod? The stock threaded rod works great.

by RRuser - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone

Re: HICTOP 3D Desktop Printer - z-axis not working correctly - 8 years ago

Wow they use V to mean velocity. We mean it to be Voltage.

by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Prints getting shunted sideways part way up - 8 years ago

Shifted layers are from the motor skipping steps.

by RRuser - Printing

Re: First Layer Perimeter Fine, Infill Beaded Z Retraction Height set to 0mm, Ideas? - 8 years ago

Is way over-extruded. Temp might be low too.

by RRuser - Printing

Re: typical values for spd/acc etc for i3 rework - 8 years ago

Here are mine for a stee frame, E3Dlite6 Wades: #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {200, 200, 3, 45} #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {800,800,50,5000} #define DEFAULT_XYJERK 15.0 #define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4 #define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0 I think my accel or jerk is still too high. On corners I still get a bounce and some ringing;

by RRuser - Printing

Re: Prusa I3 psique CREATEC (première fois ) - 8 years ago

That part needs more retraction. For the wobble, a video helps.

by RRuser - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone

Re: Horrible top layer on prints - 8 years ago

Possibly the middle section is warping up.

by RRuser - Slic3r

Re: HICTOP 3D Desktop Printer - z-axis not working correctly - 8 years ago

I did not know you could change driver voltage in the firmware. I have Marlin 1.0.2 and thought I saw every setting, but I'll look for it.

by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Two stepper z-axis - 8 years ago

4 months of printing everyday, and no problems. No ABL either.

by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Wavy Surface - 8 years ago

Isn't higher speed what you want? Gives higher voltage. And/or maybe increase the drive voltage.

by RRuser - Printing

Re: Wavy Surface - 8 years ago

So this is stepper ripple again, correct?

by RRuser - Printing

Re: Best filament for printer parts - 8 years ago

PETG for all.

by RRuser - Printing

Re: Regional Blob on Seam - 8 years ago

Also there is a way to get it to change layers on an inside part that is not visible, but I can't remember how.

by RRuser - Printing

Re: Duplicate-distance - 8 years ago

In 1.2.9 what I do is just duplicate first, then manually arrange in 2D view.

by RRuser - Slic3r

Re: Detect Thin walls not working - 8 years ago

I often try it with and without thinwalls. And with and without gapfill. Sometimes a better fix is to design the part with exact wall thickness to match an even multiple of extrusion width. I'm now using 0.4 nozzle with 0.5 width, so a good wall would be 1 or 1.5 or 2 or 2.5 mm.

by RRuser - Slic3r