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I used the configurator and downloaded the zip for 1.0.5dev. I'm running the Arduino IDE 2.2.1. I've even forced Windows 10 to install the RUMBA board driver. To clarify, this is the OLD RUMBA board, not the RUMBA+.
I can upload simple sketches (like the blink sketch) just fine using the IDE. However, when I attempt to upload the Repetier firmware, it uploads something for about a second, th
by
MrBaz
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Repetier
Thanks. I'm running GT2 belts. What would be some optimal layer heights?
by
MrBaz
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Delta Machines
I have drv8825 drivers modded to fast decay. They are set at 1/32 microstepping. 16 tooth pulleys. 1.8* motors.
Using your calculations, what is the step period? 0.16?
I've been printing at 0.2mm and haven't really had any issues. I'm just wondering if i should change my layer heights for even better quality.
by
MrBaz
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Delta Machines
UPDATE: Latest GitHUb release 1.34.1 fixes this issue. Definitely faster than 1.29
by
MrBaz
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Slic3r
Without knowing what the blue screen error message was, it is hard to say what is wrong. There is a reason those blue screens display error codes.
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MrBaz
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Slic3r
I've found decent results with 0.5mm default widths for everything but the Solid and top infill--set to 0.6mm. Not perfect, but acceptable.
by
MrBaz
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Slic3r
I have this EXACT same problem. All of my other extrusion widths come out perfectly, save for the solid infill layers. They seem to over-extrude.
by
MrBaz
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Slic3r
I've started from scratch and gone a whole different direction.
I'm back to manual extrusion widths. I've dialed everything in so now I have perfect perimeters (near seamless -- no gaps between perimeters). Now having done that, the solid infill and top infill are slightly over-extruding. Options?
by
MrBaz
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Slic3r
I did have all of my extrusion widths set, but that is what caused the slicing problem. I have also calibrated my esteps.
I've since just decided to let Slic3r do everything and calibrate using trial and error until best-fit. I have a 0.4mm nozzle, but I changed the setting in Slic3r to 0.35mm nozzle so that the lines are laid closer to each other. I've also disabled gap-fill. I think gap-fi
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MrBaz
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Slic3r
Trying to calibrate in Slic3r. If I print a thin walled, single-perimeter calibration square, what should the thickness measurement be?
0.4mm nozzle
0.2mm layer height
Right now, with a modifier of 0.96 for 1.75mm filament (filament easures 1.72mm), I'm getting 0.65mm wall thickness. What does Slic3r say this measurement should be?
by
MrBaz
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Slic3r
Running latest Repetier Server on Raspi3. First model I sliced and uploaded is the Rook (and it printed perfectly) -- the one that you can see the render is showing the complete model. Ever since then, every single model I upload only renders like a quarter of it AND it fails to print correctly. Rook1 is the EXACT same model, but only shows a quarter of the model. The print starts off fine bu
by
MrBaz
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Repetier
I can't use the Prusa edition with Repetier, because it refuses to slice anything if I have the option for firmware retraction enabled. It says only Marlin supports firmware retraction. This is incorrect. I've been using firmware retraction for a year now using the Dev version of Repetier.
Anyone know if they are fixing this?
by
MrBaz
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Slic3r
You will take a serious hit selling used 3d printing gear. Just cannibalize it for making a smaller one.
by
MrBaz
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Delta Machines
Many people have wondered, so I am here to provide an answer. It works, and it works well. I don't print at high speeds (normally around 65mm/s - 80mm/s) as most materials don't perform their best when printed super fast anyway. I prefer quality over raw speed and ugly prints.
Here is my thingiverse post:
And pictures:
New effector:
Everything mounted:
Overall:
I still need to mount t
by
MrBaz
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Delta Machines
Never bothered weighing them. Irrelevant in the long run. I print for quality, not quick ugly prints. The mag joints have zero lash and will never develop any play that has to be accounted for. Teflon pads make for very low friction and smooth running. I run a 350mm diameter bed with a 400mm print height. Mag joints make for easy maintenance and swaps.
I normally print around 65mm/s with 1500m
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MrBaz
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Delta Machines
Quotehercek
Andreas15, if you want good joints then use angle ball joints. They will be much lighter then magnets and they will withstand much bigger forces. Magnetic joints are crap ... especially if you plan to use high speeds and accelerations. If they are small enough to be light then they are weak. When they are strong then they are heavy too.
Also read this: ... especially the part about
by
MrBaz
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Delta Machines
Have you seasoned the hotend? Apparently, all-metal hotends can greatly benefit from a seasoning run here and again.
by
MrBaz
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General
I may be biased, but there is this one:
EDIT: Whoops! The BazBot has a 300mm+ build diameter which I'm guessing is bigger than you want?
by
MrBaz
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Delta Machines
QuoteFA-MAS
Yep, Tom Sanladerer just did a review of a Carbon Fiber PLA and was able to distort it greatly after dumping boiling water on it.
https://youtu.be/-Z3Nq4hwKgs
I wonder if that is why we haven't heard from the OP recently.
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MrBaz
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Look what I made!
Make sure EEPROM is enabled
Proper sequence for Repetier:
Center effector:
G131 \\removes any offsets
M322 \\clears any bed measurements
G33 R0 \\clears any bed height maps
Center the effector (same exact height on all carriages)
G132 S1 \\measures endstop offets and stores in EEPROM
G28 \\Home printer
Run Autolevel:
G32 S2 \\measures autoleve
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MrBaz
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Delta Machines
That filament has a glass transition temp of only 85*C. That is going to be interesting to see when it gets warm -- especially with the weight of those carbs hanging on them.
by
MrBaz
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Look what I made!
Run the bed at 70*C. I print PETG at 255*F HotEnd and 70*C Bed.
by
MrBaz
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General
You could have a similar issue as the DRV8825 drivers. Due to the nature of their operation, and how 3D printers actually run, the microstepping is actually causing problems. How accurately do think it is really operating making those 1/256 steps? It is most likely not making some, and other times making a few too many.
Some of these stepper motors really need to be run at 24V and decent ampe
by
MrBaz
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Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Quoteo_lampe
Does that also work with the "normal" version of the drv8825 drivers, where the chip is on top of the PCB? Where did you get yours from?
I ran my delta with modded drv's and they only got loud while steppers were standing, which is almost never on a delta.
I believe mine are the m20b version. The m20a version had the chip on the top. As far as I know, this hack should work, but c
by
MrBaz
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Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I finally went ahead and did it. I forced my DRV8825 drivers into fast decay mode. I've been thinking of doing this for a while. I tried the whole freewheeling diode thing (made things worse).
After looking at many other mods and the Texas Instrument datasheet, this is what I came up with.
Bringing the DECAY pin (pin 19 on the IC) to logic high (5v) sets the driver in fast decay mode. Pin 1
by
MrBaz
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Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
One-off delta printer.
Everything was going fine running Repetier 0.92.8. I could print anything. So then I go and decide to mess things up by upgrading the firmware.
0.92.9 doesn't work. At all. It just crashes and resets the firmware every 3 seconds. Nothing I did made it work.
Switched to the 1.0.0 dev firmware. It worked!....sort of.
I got everything squared away and it seemed to
by
MrBaz
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Printing
I have a fairly large Delta printer (320mm diameter, 460mm height). I'm running it off of a Rumba that has been serving me quite well (after I got all of the kinks worked out). When printing large models that have large curves/arcs/circles, the 8 bit CPU shows its ugly head. Even if your model had a million triangles making a perfect curve, the CPU is only capable of processing so much. You w
by
MrBaz
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Delta Machines
If I have to replace a very easily affordable mirror once or twice a year for all the printing I do, I find that acceptable.
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MrBaz
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Printing
Anyone been printing PETG on bare glass for a while and not chipped the glass? I've gotten quite a few hours on my delta printing PETG and just now am getting small little chips. Granted, the mirror I'm printing on has been abused a little since it was what I used when first setting up and calibrating it. There were many times where the hardened steel nozzle slammed into the glass and/or scrap
by
MrBaz
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Printing
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