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Re: Cable management to the X-Y carriage - how did you do it? - 6 years ago

Spectacular pic! This really helps. Will check out your blog. I was considering an Z offset cable chain as well. Are the two cable chain end points fixed or do you allow them to rotate in the Y axis? As the carriage moves in X, the cable chain end point on the carriage would move outside the flex plane of the chain if the top of the chain was fixed. In my case, I wasn't planning to raise th

Re: Cable management to the X-Y carriage - how did you do it? - 6 years ago

Quotethe_digital_dentist I think that if you buy commercial drag chain you'll find the tolerances much tighter and it will last longer. Drag chain is cheap stuff- there's no reason to print it when the commercial stuff is so cheap and performs so much better. I use a horizontal drag chain in my printer, but I have it arranged in a very large, gentle loop. It looks like you have it anchored to

Re: New print surface material? - 6 years ago

QuoteDjDemonD I use 250 deg C nozzle and 115 deg C bed for abs. 225-240 nozzle and 80 deg C bed for petg and 215 deg C nozzle and 70 deg C bed for pla on PB old white one. Your 115C with Aluminum Plate will probably be similar to my 120C glass. Thanks for the sanity check. Good reference numbers. Do you force cool the plate with a fan after the print? My 330x330 was taking over 1/2 hour to coo

Re: Printbite - Love it! Hate it! - 6 years ago

Quotegadgetmind An hour? I've fitted two bits of PB and both times took only 10 mins or so to apply and then whatever the recommended heat cycle is. ... I won't claim that I still don't see lifting on *very* odd occasions, but it's usually a sharp corner that hasn't gone down right initially and I now check these and abort the print if it goes wrong. It's usually then time for a clean and level t

Re: Printbite - Love it! Hate it! - 6 years ago

QuoteDaveOB I moved my printbite a few days back. Had to remove from an aluminium plate. Got 1 corner to lift, then used a few thin bamboo skewers to gradually lift as I worked across, and prevented it from re-adhering on to the plate. Adhesive was removed by wetting the adhesive with acetone, and while it was still very wet, gently scrape with a paint scraper. ( as soon as the acetone evaporates

Printbite - Love it! Hate it! - 6 years ago

Hate it! - I print exclusively with ABS and found the adhesion to be too fiddly. Had a print with lifted edges, but with central section stuck on so well I had to reheat the bed to 120C and slowly pry the softened part off. Was using Kean Strip Acetone purchased from a box store. Love it! - Had suggestions from the forum to add in a touch of ABS juice when cleaning the surface. This helped a

Re: Pancake stepper extruder - 7 years ago

Re: PEI vs. BuildTak vs. PrintBite - 7 years ago

@ECJ - have you ever pulled a glass chip? @Mutley3D - exactly. ABS blends vary wildly. With eSun and MakerGeeks, I just wasn't able to get good attachment on part edges. Core of part fused to bed, but edges still lifting. I am getting very satisfactory (like awesome) results using Elmer's Xtreme Glue stick/water slurry. Just seems to hold the edges down better. Some parts don't need a bri

Re: Pancake stepper extruder - 7 years ago

Ditto on the Sanyo price, but interesting. Quoteo_lampe The Bowden extruder I'm using is a printed extruder and it works OK. The weakest link in my case is the mount for the E3D /volcano hotend. I'm currently building a CNC-mill because of this. Printing precise PETG parts is difficult, because retraction causes blobs, so I'll give the Titan a try. PETG prints are slow anyway, so a little extra

NSTT - 7 years ago

Food for thought NSTT, Assembly, Assembly (old?), Time to order some pancakes and start CAD'ing

Re: Pancake stepper extruder - 7 years ago

Quoteo_lampe What's the difference in terms of "fun" to print another guys design instead of buying a Titan extruder? Actually I ordered a Titan for my D-Bot and hope to get rid off the Bowden tube. The idea is to mount it with the clear plastic cover towards the hotend-carrier. What is your experience with the Bowden? I'm still building my "D-bot" and struggling with the ideal of using a Bowde

Re: Pancake stepper extruder - 7 years ago

dc42 - Interesting rule of thumb. If I apply that to my Wade extruder 747 steps/mm 9:47 required motor torque = 500 /(747/16) = 10.7Ncm which could be easily be handled with a NEMA 14 or NEMA 17 pancake ~120-140gr So if for nothing else than to reduce overshoot, I should be replacing my 40Ncm 285gr NEMA 17 on my existing Wade with a NEMA 17 pancake. It's not a common problem for a wade ex

Re: PEI vs. BuildTak vs. PrintBite - 7 years ago

QuoteDjDemonD Okay so no name black ABS from go-inks (the white one was printed about a year ago so no idea although I was using quite a bit of Excelvan which is not available anymore - which is a great shame). Using Prusa slic3r for the black one probably 2 perimeters and no infill, to try to minimise the amount of material causing contraction as it cools. Light wash of abs juice really quite

Re: PEI vs. BuildTak vs. PrintBite - 7 years ago

@DjDemonD Actually quite exciting...existence proof that a Warpinator 5000 can be printed No lift, no brim, no raft in ABS on Printbite. Sorry to have to ask, but can you share all the specifics so I can duplicate? This is kind of a holy grail. Brand of ABS & slicer config & settings? mostly on S3D these days. The ABS juice helped immensely on Printbite, but I am still not there.

Re: PEI vs. BuildTak vs. PrintBite - 7 years ago

QuoteDjDemonD That's a nice print, but in my experience a hollow model is the least likely to lift at the corners, its the infill that generates the lateral contraction forces that lift the corners of long narrow parts. Circular models with low/no infill is not such a risk for lifting. Try printing Angus from maker's muse Warpinator 5000 its a real test. I can get it to stick on printbite which I

Re: Technique for Printing ABS on Glass HB Glue Stick Juice - 7 years ago

Learned a lot over the past 6 months. Warpinator 5000 is easy and looking for something more challenging! I reverted back to simple glue stick on glass. Using Elmers Xtreme since is seems to be commonly available. Self heated chamber running at 50C. Glass bed 115/95. Extruder 260/250. Std eSun ABS. First two months, I managed to get some good prints, but was pulling chips off the bed.

Re: Best Z-axis configuration? - 8 years ago

Quotedc42 Adding motion support to RepRapFirmware for scissor lift would be easy. The more challenging part is calibration. The firmware would need to know the exact geometry of the scissor when the homing switch is triggered, because any error would result in non-linear drive. I'm missing something.....in the video, the scissor is driven by a pair of vertical Z screws which exactly determine th

Re: New technique for ABS adhesion! - 8 years ago

@ECJ can you post a link to the type of transparency you are using?

Re: Heated Bed Overdrive - 8 years ago

@dc42 Fired off an email to Ali Brother Tech to see if they can help me. Do you know if your 300mm uses copper heating elements? Can you post a heat up graph? I can be talked into mains for a Delta since the wiring is fixed and the Mic6 bed plate can be grounded. Present development is being done on a printer where the bed moves on y rails, so I'd rule out mains drive for it. Also planning a

Re: Heated Bed Overdrive - 8 years ago

The back ground motivation for this thread is to find a cost effective, ~$100, 500-600W heated bed solution for a 350-400mm diameter aluminum bed on a delta that does not use mains power, but has a power density approaching 0.5W/cm^2. The LED market has a 24V 25A 600W PSU price point of ~$45 that seems cost effective with multiple vendors. The difficulty is in finding a Kapton or PCB heater tha

Re: Heated Bed Overdrive - 8 years ago

@AndyZuerich - Andy click on the schematic in the PSU link; there is a very nice pdf download Correct. A FW or HW mechanism to impedance match the varying resistance of the bed to the PSU for maximum power transfer. You are correct about the inductance concern, but my power N-channel FET is running with the source connected to ground, so any inductive kick is picked up by the clamp diode connec

Heated Bed Overdrive - 8 years ago

Moving a thread that was started on the MarlinFirmware forum so it can be viewed by a wider audience. Here is the first post... For heated beds using copper heating elements, power falls off by ~30% by the time the bed reaches a final temperature of about 115C (which is typical for ABS). In some cases, a power supply with extra current capacity is needed to deliver the cold start up current (wh

Re: Dry Filament Convection Oven Recommendations - 8 years ago

@Ezrec - so one vote for DIY instead of Amazon. Can you post a pic?

Dry Filament Convection Oven Recommendations - 8 years ago

Need to actively dry ABS & Nylon filament and was wondering if anyone had specific product/model recommendations for a convection oven or food dehydrator. A min temp of 150F would be ok, but that would be iffy for PLA. Also concerned about the melting point of spools. This will be a multi hour process, so some of the ovens on Amazon that have a max 2hr timer would be cumbersome. A DIY or

Re: ALL Metal Hot Ends and Printing PLA - 8 years ago

@DjDemonD - Can you describe how you coated the barrel with WS2? Is it still jam free? Did you have to re-coat? Also describe your polishing technique and if you still believe it was effective.

Re: Technique for Printing ABS on Glass HB Glue Stick Juice - 8 years ago

@calinb - Success! Back to ABS Juice on Gluestick on Glass - Parts just peel off with a bed temp of 60C! I have been letting the bed cool down to room temp and then reheating to 60C and holding it there for about 5 minutes. Slip a single edge razor under the part and then insert a small 0.5mm thick frosting knife. The knife separates the part from the bed with little effort. The glue stick

Re: Technique for Printing ABS on Glass HB Glue Stick Juice - 8 years ago

Experimenting with different kinds of paper and learning about various paper manufacturing processes. I am going find a source and get some Esaki tissue ordered. "Expensive" but it has some unique characteristics. Tried some gift wrapping tissue, and it just dissolved. @calinb - been thinking about your comment that the glass seems stronger when it is hot. I have had the same feeling. Most

Re: Technique for Printing ABS on Glass HB Glue Stick Juice - 8 years ago

@calinb - GG sounds interesting. What's the clean up process like? I've been trying to come up with a way to distribute the shear forces at the glass/print surface interface to prevent glass chipping. I've had some success with putting down a layer of high quality tissue paper on top of a glue stick/water slurry. Letting it dry, and then cooking it at 110C for a half hour. After cooling, co

Re: Technique for Printing ABS on Glass HB Glue Stick Juice - 8 years ago

Ordered some boro glass to build new beds for surface experiments. Copper foil heaters are cheap, reliable and easy to build. One theory is that the glass chips when part is pried off the bed while it is still under extreme tension after cooling. Perhaps re-heating the part prior to removal will reduce the localized strain on the glass. Planning to compare PEI and PET to gluestick w/ juice.

Re: Technique for Printing ABS on Glass HB Glue Stick Juice - 8 years ago

Update - Mixed results with the Minwax Polycrylic. While it worked great on the smaller Wade gear print (perfect print, easy release), there was significant uplift on the 200mm long 19 hour long Sundial print. What was strange was there was virtually no axial uplift in the long direction of the part. After cooling and gently prying with a single edge razor most of the part released suddenly l