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The piece on the left was printed with "Detect thin walls" checked, which is the default. The piece on the right, which has gaps, but only tiny ones, has "Detect thin walls" turned off.
I've noticed these kinds of gaps for awhile, but I finally figured out what was causing them. Since I turned it off, I haven't noticed any problems with my prints. Perhaps this option could be tweaked to work bet
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
That's the fan I use! I was using a front loaded fan for awhile, but then I switched to this one. I love being able to see the print.
I got it to print with the supports, but I think I was still using makerbot desktop at that point. Sorry, I can't help. I will say that they printed out as a complete mess, not pillars at all, but they seemed to do the job of keeping the ceiling up while printing.
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
That's a terrible, terrible solution.
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
So this is still happening. I'm sure it's not an extrusion problem. Increasing the extrusion causes bad things to happen in other places, like putting out a mess of extra filament at the top of the part.
As I mentioned, "extra perimeters if needed" is checked.
I've upped the perimeters to 3. That made it happen a little less, but it still happens. Slicer has little holes in the walls at 3 perim
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
What kind of printer do you have?
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
Just to check, I'm trying converting my gcode to x3g files using gpx instead of Rep G. I've only done a couple of prints, but they seem good. The problem is inconsistent, so I'll have to do some more prints to see if that solved it.
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
This might be important. I'm using Replicator G to turn the gcode into .x3g files that my printer can read. That's a step that isn't necessary with Makerbot Desktop, so it's possible that that's adding something extra.
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
I have a Wanhao Duplicator 4x.
I don't think it's a priner issue. It doesn't do any of these things when I'm using Makerbot Desktop.
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
When I set up slic3r, I used the start and end gcode suggested on this thread:
Since then, I've had one consistent issue. At the end of any print, the extruder block goes to the back right corner as I expect it too, then the printer gets weird. It moves the extruder to the center of the bed at the same time that it lowers the print bed. This would be fine except for two things.
1) How fast it
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
Status update: it's printing again.
I'm not sure why cleaning out the nozzle worked better this time than last time, but it seems to be working. Of course, I'm only 5 minutes into a 16 and a half hour print, so I'm still quite nervous.
Next up, I'll see if it goes back to jamming a little after every print. If that behavior continues, then I'll look for help in the right place instead of on the
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
I don't think that's what's happening.
The left extruder was 40 degrees less than than the left extruder. That's a big difference.
Plus, that's the extruder that was supposed to be doing all of the work. I set everything to the second extruder in the Print Settings tab. So if anything, the right extruder should have been the one at a lower temp.
Finally, there's the problem that it didn't prin
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
I tried again to print with the second extruder, but it had several problems.
I set up my g-code for dual extruders. I used the example gcode from this page:
Then I went under Print Settings/Multiple Extruders and set everything to '2'.
After I exported the gcode, converted it to .s3g, and took it to my printer, I started it. Unlike my past attempts, it shows both nozzles heating up. That's
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
You're right, I'm pretty sure it isn't. However, the temporary fix seems to be getting slic3r to print using the other extruder. So if anyone knows how to do that, I'd appreciate it.
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
Well, I've found out that getting the printer to use the second extruder is not as simple as using a T2 command.
That is all the progress I've made.
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
Well, I spoke too soon.
The nozzle was definitely part of the problem, but not all of the problem. The first couple of prints seemed fine, then I started seeing air printing again.
Most times that I print, I have to unload the filament, cut off the end, then reload. If I don't, usually nothing comes out or it doesn't come out for a long time. Then when I unload it the end of the filament is mes
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
I don't have any acetone, so I swapped the left and right nozzles. Now it works like new. Clearly that was the probably. I'll try to get some acetone and clean the dirty one, hopefully that will be enough.
Thanks for all your help, everyone.
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
For some printers the origin (under Printer Settings) needs to be set to 0,0. For mine, that was wrong, it needed to be set to the middle of my bed dimensions. So for my 225x145 bed, I set the origin to 112.5, 72.5 and it worked fine.
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
The problem has gotten much worse. For awhile I could get the filament moving by putting a little pressure on it from above. Now even that doesn't work.
I tried taking off my nozzel and cleaning out the teflon tube. That didn't help. I also tried raising the temperature on the first layer, thinking that since it's fine once it gets started, it just needed a little more. That didn't help either.
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
I'll try that, but it's still odd.
I've got "extra perimeters if needed" checked. It's currently set to 2 perimeters, which is the same as Makerbot Desktop. It seems that Slic3r just doesn't allow for enough overlap on these angles.
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
At certain angles, walls that are not perpendicular to the plate, but also are not near 45 degrees, do poorly when I print them using Slic3r. They come out much thinner. Sometimes this leaves little gaps, sometimes it makes the walls so thin that they are semitransparent. As you can see by the picture I attached, my robot has polka dot underpants because you can see through the wall to the suppor
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
The first print with a skirt was a success. Next step will be trying to clean the nozzle.
Thanks for the help. Making progress.
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
dc42, I've done everything I can to level the bed and rechecked it. That's usually what has gone wrong, but I think I've got it this time.
Dave, there is a G92 E0 after that line is extruded.
Here are the last few lines of my start code before the actual printing. Resetting the progress is one of the last steps.
G92 E0; set E to 0
G90; use absolute coordinates
M320; acceleration enabled for al
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
For the problem of not extruding, I'm not sure what's going on. According to the heat reading on the front, it is reaching the target temp. Usually when the extruder is slipping there is a clicking noise, but I wasn't hearing that. I've actually detached the feeding tube and put my fingers on the filament, only to find that it wasn't moving at all.
Last time I had a filament jam I cleared out th
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
I've been having problems with the beginning of prints for the last few days. For awhile it just didn't extrude anything at first. Sometimes for a few seconds and sometimes for a full minute. Sometimes setting it to "load filament" forced it to shove some out and printing immediately afterwards was successful. Sometimes now.
Right not it's behaving differently. It does start extruding right from
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
Cool, I'll give that a try. I didn't have a caliper, so I just trusted that the filament was the diameter that it said on the box. I wonder why Makerbot Desktop gets different results than slic3r.
Thanks.
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
Found it!
Works:
G1 Z0.3 F6000.000; move to first layer height
Doesn't work:
G1 Z100% F6000.000; move to first layer height
The problem is that I set Print Settings->Layers and Perimeters->First Layer Height to 100%. I'd had it at a set number before. The reason why changing back to the defaults didn't work is because the *default* is 100%, which is why I changed it in the first place.
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
Earlier today I could print with gcode output by slic3r. I tried many things to adjust the settings to get better quality on the top layer. At some point slic3r started messing up the gcode.
Now when I try to print something, the bed goes up, then down again, then starts extruding in the empty air far above the print bed.
It's not the printer. I tried a file that I generated yesterday and it pr
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
I recently started using slic3r. After working with the settings, it does everything better than my old slicer *except* the top layer. The top layer is consistently bad.
I've attached a picture of two similar parts, the one on the left printed with Makerbot Desktop, the one on the right printed with slic3r. The pieces are two sections of the same roof, so they have the same slopes. You can see t
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JasonMBryant
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Slic3r
