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Hello,
So am new to Slic3r but using Cura 15.04.6 for long time now.
I have a Rep Rap Pursa I3 clone from Hic Top that is working ok with many hours of print under its belts so to speak.
Today however i have created a STL that cura does not seem to slice correct and basically print job stops after about 2mm of Z.
So i thought i would try Slic3r.
I have a small test print job about size of a p
by
imk
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Slic3r
QuoteMattMoses
This is cool.
Can you provide any more information on the conductive PLA version?
How well does it work compared to the conductive paint version?
What kind of bearing does this use? (I assume the bearings are commercial and/or they contain metal.)
It would be kind of fun to make a motor that is 100% printed 100% plastic, just to show that it can be done.
The one in the video
by
imk
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Look what I made!
Quotejinx
been discussed before Excelvan not sure I want to wait around to find 50 people wanting one colour
Mmmm ok see the point then what about getting a number of these 3D print shops involved.
See my post to Excelvan thread
by
imk
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General
Is this thread still alive as I would certainly be interested in buying in.
How do we start has someone got email of excelvan sale and got budget cost for 100 rolls as figure do this not only for the 3D home market but this consortium could sell on to the 3D print shops to boots number.
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imk
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General
QuoteMechaBits
I saw some at double the price, but it seemed to have gone through a rebrand, same roll different name 'So'
Either I predicted right, they get us hooked then cut off supply/hike price...or they read the prediction and thought yeah what a good idea lets do it...added to that the news is saying how the raw material costs are going up in China...and they might pass it on to us....god
by
imk
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General
QuoteDADIY
Excelvan has been great in the UK, but something has happened to supply of the 1.75mm filament, its like they either no longer make it or a container full sunk somewhere in shipment. Other non-name filaments are still available on ebay at cheap prices but the one roll I tried was unusable.
DADIY ya I can't find any either, lots of 3mm but no 1.75.
Maybe container lost or as was meg
by
imk
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General
QuoteElmoC
My personal favorite is eSun PLA+ and PETG. The PLA+ has replaced the regular PLA for my printing. Gives better strength and flexibility over PLA.
Hello ElmoC are you by any chance in UK as finding it tricky to locate a supplier of esun pla+ here.
many thanks imk
by
imk
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General
Many thanks for the replies, but sorry forgot to mention am in UK
by
imk
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General
There are many of these motors on YouTube and all the ones I have seen use either aluminium or copper foil for the either the rotor or stator electrodes.
So I wondered if it would work using conductive PLA 3D filament or conductive paint to carry and store the charge.
So I built a conductive PLA version and a conductive paint version both of which worked and the conductive paint version can
by
imk
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Look what I made!
Hello,
So am getting to grips with printing on my Prusa i3 clone now
and well I have lots more ideas I would like to make so now is time to buy much more 1.75mm PLA.
So I was wondering what the consensus of opinion is re the best value for money make/type and supplier of PLA is please?
Many thanks and a happy new year imk.
by
imk
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General
Hello,
I have a hic hic i3 prusa 1.75mm filament printer and after some tweaking/mods it is working well.
However some filaments have a really smooth surface and I think I maybe getting feeder filament grip problems.
So wondering about a hot end and feeder upgrade, like having a separate hot end and feeder with bowden cable feed path.
Any recommendation please, where to shop and what to shop fo
by
imk
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hello,
Just like to add that my ebay HIC HIC Perspex i3 Prusa worked just fine first time. However things I have had to change post build are:
Y axis rails were bent (ends to middle) by 0.8mm this caused problem only on large based prints. Replaced with new rails.
The Y axis under chassis has only three bearing and is made of Perspex, this warped after a few prints and caused separation problem
by
imk
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hello,
I have a prusa i3 clone and after a few mods I am getting some pretty good prints out of it.
However pain is checking the bed level before every print.
It has a MKS Base v1.2 controller board and I am using cura 15.04.6 which seems to have a bed level option in it.
So how to enable bed levelling please?
What sort of sensor do I need where do I plug it in please etc?
Many thanks in adva
by
imk
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hello,
I have a RepRap Pursa i3 clone and after a few mods it works really well.
So one day I got thinking about making it do CNC Perspex sheet cut outs.
Basically rework the print head carriage so it will hold a 3D print head or a spindle motor, chuck and cutting tool.
Anyone done anything like this, which software did you use etc.
Many thanks imk
by
imk
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Mechanics
Hello,
Getting to grips with Cubify Design and want to scale a Sketch.
Tried for hours to figure it. Is there a way please?
Many thanks imk
by
imk
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General
Hello,
Anyone recommend a UK company that can supply straight 8mmX390mm bars please for my RR Prusa
Many thanks imk
by
imk
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General
Quotetjnamtiw
use a 0.1mm feeler gauge or a 0.004" gauge. It's stiffer and easier to use than a sheet of paper. Then set first layer height to 0.3 and extrusion % to 150% and you will be good to go for PLA. Don't know about ABS because PLA suits my needs without all the hassle of ABS.
Hello tjnamtiw
I have been using 0.1mm and for months have been getting good results.
Then last couple of job
by
imk
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Reprappers
Recommendation for nozzle height above print bed please?
I have been testing with 0.1 to 0.15mm but was wondering if there's an optimum.
many thanks imk
Machine is Prusa i3 0.4mm nozzle 1.7mm filament
by
imk
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Reprappers
I believe you can over-tighten the belts as remember when you tighten the belts you increases friction on the bearing.
I think my x axis belt was over-tighten as backed it of a notch and moves much freer now
by
imk
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Printing
Try turning your print and travel speed down, mine are about half of yours and I get some really good prints.
The other thing I do is when the job is printing the bottom/contact layer I reduce print speed to 50%.
Looking again at your prints pictures it looks like you might have under and over shoot.
Is the pitch/shape of the belt correct for the sprockets you have? A was reading up on it yeste
by
imk
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Printing
Ah,
Just looked in Cura Advanced setting and Travel Speed may need to be reduced.
by
imk
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Printing
Rein,
Not seen a guide but one would be a good idea.
But since reporting this I have had an idea.
Create a STL of a narrow but long object say 1mm z 5mm wide and 100mm or more long (whatever you printer can accommodate)
Now slacken off the belt on the long (say Y) axis and do a test print, if it jumps or slips tighten it up some.
Repeat until this axis does not slip or jump, then do it on the oth
by
imk
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Printing
Ya in think the belt was too tight, also judging by the amount the print was displaced about 1.6mm and the belt teeth pitch is 2mm I think it must have jumped a tooth.
So I have backed of the tension by a tooth so let see how it get on.
BTW how often do you need to change the belts, do they stretch?
by
imk
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Printing
Hello,
I was printing 3 off 20mm dia x 15mm Z(long) feet for a project and about 7mm into Z the printer suddenly made a Y axis jump/step of about 1.8mm.
The result you can see in the attached picture:
Printer a RR Prusa clone from china and most of the time works really well.
Software is Cura 15.04 and Printer is driven by PC not the SD card.
Running the job again works fine and I have seen same
by
imk
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Printing
Yes true plastic I guess will not perform as well as steel. But interesting to note that I just changed the journal size from 15mm to 5mm and little motor runs MUCH faster.
Guess there must be an interesting ratio between journal size and 10mm crank throw where the friction rise rapidly.
Mmmm before I move from PLA I think ill try some different bearing designs and sizes.
by
imk
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Reprappers
So am getting a bit more adventurous in my printing now and want to print moving parts like gears, pistons for model engines etc.
I currently use pla and have made a model working engine and although it works fine bearing friction seems MUCH higher that steel. (Although it does seem to run in and improve over time)
So any recommendation re what type of 1.75 filament I should get please for low fr
by
imk
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Reprappers
Quoteo_lampe
Frog tape should work too, but is more expensive? ( 3M Scotch 3434 is my favorite )
WOW got some 3434 and lowered bed temp to 25 for pla and worked pretty well, but after experiment or two I found 35c works really well.
Not had a single print lift and pops off the bed at end of print real easy. WOW best advice I have had in Looooooooong Time! many thanks :-)
Ian
by
imk
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Reprappers
3M Scotch 3434 found some on ebay ill get some order up and give it a go.
Do you just use it once or will it hold up to multiple prints?
Do you prep it in any way or clean it after a print?
by
imk
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Reprappers
Quoteo_lampe
Do you wait until the bed is cooled down?
I use paintertape on aluminium bed for many prints with or without brim at 45°C before I have to replace it. Just let it cool down to room temp.
-Olaf
Thanks for that! I've been trying to remove it while hot. Doh!
Also next time I have to remove tape ill try painter tape. in uk we have some stuff called frog tape so wonder if that works.
Ap
by
imk
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Reprappers
Hello,
I have a reprap Prusa i3, with a heated alloy sheet as a bed.
Currently I am using pla and am having very variable results with keeping the print on the bed.
Test one is to use simple masking tape and well this work ok, sometimes sticks well and easy to lift off and other times job lift during the print. (I use a brim of 10mm and this seems to help)
Test two is same as above but just befor
by
imk
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Reprappers
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