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Quotedmould
Quotedoodady
What happens if you try to bridge to or from the middle of a bridge?
Please understand I am relatively new here
The same as if you try to bridge a gap of exactly 2m with a plank of wood that is exactly 2m long. The wood has nothing to rest on at each end, so it falls into the gap.
Dave
What is the result if the bridge is 2.30m and the gap is 2m (15% overlap)? wou
by
doodady
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Slic3r
QuoteGhremHatesSlic3r
Creating a .2mm bump(Layer 14) in the nut space (Layer13) to the top and bottom of the hole forces the slicer to create the desired effect of adding a partial bridge first to the top/bottom (Layer 14, the bump) and then to left/right (Layer 15) before doing infill on Layer 16+. I just printed this and it turned out freaking awesome.
I know 14/15 are bridge since they are
by
doodady
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Slic3r
What happens if you try to bridge to or from the middle of a bridge?
Please understand I am relatively new here
by
doodady
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Slic3r
QuoteGhremHatesSlic3r
Nah, the interior ends in deadspace, it would still be strings and the circles would still fall through... MIGHT get one good layer with doing that but it would still be crap. I would think they could do a partial bridge detect and print the bridges on the left/right or top/bottom around the center hole. Would that not be a valid feature request? I'm quite shocked it doesn
by
doodady
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Slic3r
Quotedmould
As others have said, Slic3r already does this. However you won't get good results if the infill height is greater than the nozzle diameter, so ensure that your layer height multiplied by number of layers between infill does not exceed your nozzle diameter.
Dave
So does Slic3r re-adjust the thickness of the in-fill to try to compensate for the skipped infill layers or does it just
by
doodady
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Slic3r
Just a comment here.
Not really having this problem but this is good information for the new printer guys.
Thanks from those of us that are on the steep learning curve!!!
by
doodady
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Printing
I am not a developer but I did read this:
Developers
If you're reading this, you're a developer. Please join:
I have completed quite a bit of firmware customization and upgrading to my printer and so-far seems to be doing pretty well.
Lately I have been dabbling into the c++ things and would like to make a few changes.
I don't see myself taking up programing so I am not really interested i
by
doodady
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Developers
Quoteo_lampe
The image is quite small, can you provide a closeup of the corner in question? And maybe attach the .stl file to play with?
Attached is the STL file.
I played with it a while longer and it appears to be a Repetier problem. I put it on the Slic3r plate and it looked ok so disregard the question for now.
by
doodady
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Slic3r
along the same lines I am having trouble with perimeter calculations also.
I would like to understand how slic3r works so that I can configure the print settings to get what I want. At this point when I make changes to perimeter widths I don't get the results that I would expect.
for testing I made a simple 1mm wall and used 0.5mm for all the settings in slicer.
Why does one end of the wal
by
doodady
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Slic3r
Quoteo_lampe
If you are talking about Marlin FW z-hop, I would set it to 0-
Because, it is easier to add or remove z-hop in slicer software than reflashing Firmware all the time.
Yes that is what I was asking. You are correct it is easier to change in slicer.....I was just curious if there is actually an advantage from a print quality improvement of one over the other.
by
doodady
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General
Maybe I asked the question wrong??? which would not be a first for me
I would like to know if one is better than the other. If so, why?
by
doodady
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General
Why is one better than the other?
I can make it work either way but there must be a reason????
by
doodady
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General
Quoteobewan
Or try cura slicer
Already did that.....
by
doodady
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Slic3r
Quoteo_lampe
Do you have support enabled or not? If not, then it is not the slicers fault, when it has to print in mid air. Sometimes it is unavoidable.
I was trying to print this without supports. it seems it should be possible. if the overhang is enough less than 90 degrees it should have an edge to build on from the previous layer. I know there are limitations but seems it should be possib
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doodady
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Slic3r
Thanks for the tip! will take a swing at it this afternoon. Honestly I can get around Slic3r pretty well and I don't want to through good money away. Maybe a little more time and I can get this edition to meet my needs
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doodady
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Slic3r
Currently using the Prusa Edition of Slic3r that was released in late November but still having difficulties with perfecting my prints. Most of my problems is overhangs. There are places where Slic3r seems to print a perimeter in open air with nothing to support it. I am on the edge of slamming $$ at Simplify3d but I wanted to give the Prusa Edition a chance before giving it up.
Anyone out the
by
doodady
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Slic3r
