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There really isn't a good solution, other than using shorter cables. The communications protocols used by the SD card reader and LCD display just don't work well with long cables.
You could build some sort of buffer or communication adapter to go at each end of the cable, but that would be quite a bit of work.
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NewPerfection
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General
Looks like a derivation of the MendelMax, with a Prusa i2-style X axis:
I did find this, which appears to have the 2013 version of the BCN3D printer:
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NewPerfection
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Reprappers
While more expensive stuff is more reliable, stuff like this still happens. I've had aerospace fasteners come without threads, and they cost 5 USD or more per each for 1/4" (~M6) bolts!
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NewPerfection
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General
This actually used to be common on early RepRap-based printers that used DC motors for the extruder. The first printer I ever built used a DC geared motor for the extruder, which was only on/off, rather than acting like another axis. X-Y movement of the printer ran at a fixed speed with no acceleration, which required the printer to run quite slow (I don't think I was able to run it faster than
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NewPerfection
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General
I'm planning on building a new printer for myself. The one I'm currently using is a MendelMax I built almost 10 years ago. It still works, but it's slow and finicky compared to what I could build now. I've built several printers since then, but they've all been for other people.
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NewPerfection
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General
This is really cool! I've been following your printer development for a while, I like what you're doing!
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NewPerfection
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Look what I made!
Printrun still has a 32-bit release for Windows. Does it not run on 32-bit Linux? Older versions are available too.
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NewPerfection
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General
QuoteMartinJB
If you are building a CoreXY, you might want to consider the MaybeCube
I really like that design, thanks for sharing! Do you have any issues with the unsupported X rail?
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NewPerfection
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General
Acceleration.
Between X=10 and X=20, and between X=20 and X=30, you have (200,000 Clocks)/(800 Steps) = 250 Clocks/Step. So after you reach X=10, your speed is constant.
Before you reach X=10, there is acceleration, which is why the average speed is lower, at (300,000 Clocks)/(800 Steps) = 375 Clocks/Step.
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NewPerfection
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General
I’m sorry, but I don’t see how VDX’s comments can be construed as “hate speech”.
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NewPerfection
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General
What host software are you using? It may be the host software that's preventing the cold extrude rather than the firmware on the control board.
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NewPerfection
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General
This is great! I especially like the all-printed extruder.
Have you seen the Snappy printer? It looks like it's no longer being developed, and seems to use a lot more plastic than your design, but you might get some useful ideas from it.
I'd love to build one of these, though I don't have much free time lately. I'll definitely be following this project though!
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NewPerfection
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Developers
That looks great! I may need to make something like that for my new floor jack.
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NewPerfection
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Look what I made!
Thanks for sharing, I think my kids would love this!
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NewPerfection
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General
You're right, 25% would be the correct PWM value. However, as long as the frequency is high enough, the bed should have enough thermal mass that the pulsing at higher current won't hurt it. What will hurt it is getting too hot. If the frequency is at even a low 1kHz, the temperature fluctuation compared to running a constant 12V will be negligible. A bang-bang type controller would likely have s
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NewPerfection
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Reprappers
Why not just limit the bed PWM output to 50% 25% in firmware? That'll effectively give you 12V max to the bed.
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NewPerfection
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Reprappers
Looks great! I built a h-bot design using conduit (which looks really nice when powder-coated!), but the h-bot gantry racking was too much of a problem. It printed OK, but skewing in the prints was a big problem. I have enough conduit to build a design like this, and I've been itching to make a new printer, this might be what I'm looking for!
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NewPerfection
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CoreXY Machines
Please keep the discussion civil.
On another note: Preliminary analysis does not (and in most cases should not) require FEA or even 3D modelling. That kind of thing should come later, and mostly used to refine designs and find potential overlooked issues. Starting with "popsicle stick" models and such is an excellent way to think through a design. I'm speaking from experience as an aerospace
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NewPerfection
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Fisher
Those look great! I haven't really messed with painting or otherwise finishing printed parts as the stuff I make is typically primarily functional, but often times it's desirable for even purely functional parts to look nice.
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NewPerfection
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Tech-Talk
At least they are up-front about labeling it as a clone. I can see why many people are hesitant to open-source their projects. Though, in the end people will try to clone successful projects or ideas, open-source or not. I'm just happy Prusa is doing well despite stuff like this.
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NewPerfection
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General
Awesome! I have built a number of printers over the years with genuine J-Head hot-ends and never had a problem. My current machine uses one from several years ago (2013 I think), and I print both PLA and ABS with it all the time. Totally worth the price over the cheap clones. The only time I don't use them is when I need a hot-end that is capable of higher temperatures (>250°C). I haven't
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NewPerfection
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General
The answer is "RepStrap"
http://reprap.org/wiki/Repstrap
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NewPerfection
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General
That looks really nice!
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NewPerfection
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General
My home printer, as well as the one I use at work, are both pretty close to 12 inch square.
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NewPerfection
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General
I'm in the process of converting a mini mill (e.g. this one from Harbor Freight) into a CNC mill. This should give a fairly accurate, but small, mill capable of milling aluminum and steel. This is the guide I'm using for inspiration, though I'm making a number of changes as I go along in order to use the materials and hardware that I can get the cheapest and easiest. At the end I should have a
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NewPerfection
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General
Multiple scam reports have been received about this person: Ting Hsuan Kuo. He uses several different forum names (confirmed to be the same person via IP address). Watch out for anyone with that name requesting payment for a printer or parts, especially through a bank wire or other difficult-to-recover method of payment.
See:
DO NOT SEND MONEY TO ANYONE WITH THE NAME OF TING HSUAN KUO
Ti
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NewPerfection
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For Sale
This is awesome. This is a perfect application for the inexpensive custom manufacturing that 3D printing can give us. Thanks for sharing!
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NewPerfection
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Look what I made!
Can you post a transcript of the conversation between you and this "seller"? What name did he give you? If it is the same person, I've got a (somewhat redacted) photo of his drivers license. This may be a case where legal authorities need to be involved.
Quoteavery155
Scam warning posted a day too late for me what luck. Now Im trying to get my money back
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NewPerfection
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For Sale
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