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I like this design, would be fun to try to build one!
Would it be a good idea to make a small "calibration test", that is just a couple of sample assembly attachments? It'd be nice to have a fairly small print to test printer/plastic calibration, to ensure that segments fit tightly together before starting huge prints. This could also be useful to make sure parts will fit well when changing fil
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ketil
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Developers
Quotenophead
Quote
Concluded from the above thread, from the start, i think that it has been verified that Slic3R selects correct path as expected and for W/T>1 it is probably selecting proper flow as well. question is would flow be better for W/T=1 and W/T<1 if the same formula was used? I do not know. i do not even know if the formula used at present version is failing!
No Sli3r only use
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ketil
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Slic3r
@to-the-nth, I guess this is the math behind @nophead's flow rate:
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ketil
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Slic3r
I didn't see any measurements here from people's printers, so I decided to chime in with some measurements. I designed a 2mm tall cylinder with diameter of 24mm, with a 10mm round hole in the centre. It's attached, 10kr.stl. I sliced it with slic3r 1.0.0, first as I usually would, then with external perimeters first. I watched the prints and can verify that they printed differently. I have also a
by
ketil
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Slic3r
Hi,
I'm running a printer with Marlin, and I find the nozzle warm up sequence is really slow. Not because heating is slow, but because the logic is slow. I'd love any tips on how to tune my PID parameters to get started faster. I've used M303 to autotune, but it didn't really improve the situation much.
When I switch on the nozzle heater, temperature increases in steps of 10-11 degrees every t
by
ketil
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General
I'm not sure what kind of modifications you're thinking of, but the way I see it there's loads of exciting developments. The RepRapPro Ormerod is quite different, as is Mendel90. But to name a few completely different designs:
Rostock:
Morgan:
Simpson:
RepRap certainly isn't running dry!
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ketil
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General
Thanks for the detailed answer and the link! I have a 12V 18A PSU for my heated bed. As I understand your blog post, 20A load should heat the FETs to roughly 80 degrees (provided my ambient is around 20)? Looking at other info, it also looks like the Duet can handle 12V - 24V input, so that means I can just feed it any voltage between 12V and 24V as long as the motors, heaters and fans are happy
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ketil
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Controllers
Hello,
I've been trying to find some details about the Duet/RepRapFirmware, but so far I haven't found these details:
What's the amp rating for the Duet board? How would I go about running multiple fans with speed controls? Would I have to get the expansion board and repurpose one of the motor outputs? Has any work been done to connect an LCD for stand-alone prints? Or isn't this prioritized s
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ketil
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Controllers
Yeah, just vacuuming and collecting (and dumping?) the dust is a problem in itself.
To navigate, perhaps a Raspberry Pi with one or two cameras and the OpenCV library could work well? But I guess this is getting a bit too far into future details already!
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ketil
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Has any work been done on an open source DIY 3D-printed vacuum cleaner robot? Ideally, as many parts as possible should be printed parts, and then electronics (arduino?), motors and any other "vitamins" necessary. And firmware, of course.
I came across this thread, but that appears to be vaporware:
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ketil
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
The reprap.org site has been down a few times recently. Is there any chance of getting a copy of the wiki DB so that the wiki can be mirrored? I run www.reprap.no, and I'd like to set up a read-only regularly mirrored copy of the reprap.org wiki for my own and others' benefit in case reprap.org happens to be slow or down.
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ketil
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General
Interesting! Are the drawings available? Interesting technique of dipping the printed parts in potting compound, what are you using? I guess that makes it easier to print the structure without being concerned about watertightness during the print itself.
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ketil
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I checked my old laptop today, and I was using "RepSnapper by Kulitorum www.kulitorum.com", Version 04.25.11. I fetched and built it from https://github.com/timschmidt/repsnapper.git, and the last change in my old version was from 17 April 2011. It has a tab called "Interactive", where I can move each axis (and extruder) by 0.1, 1, 10 and 100mm in both directions, and home.
However, I'm testing
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ketil
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Huxley
Quotemarnargulus
I've never heard of anyone in Ubuntu (or linux in general) that could get the 644P to work with a Arduino (even to upload a sketch, post bootloader), a few mentions of windows machines working though.
I've finally managed to program my Gen3 remix (Sanguino W/ATmega 644P) from Ubuntu 12.04. I downloaded arduino-0023 and Sanguino-0023r4, unpacked as described, and it just wouldn't
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ketil
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Sanguino(lolu)
As mentioned in an earlier thread, I've done some work to interface a new hotend to the TechZone Huxley. My original hotend broke fairly fast, the threads in the PTFE block didn't last very long.
Based on DeuxVis' work, I've designed a replacement tip clamp that should hold a J-Head hotend, and uploaded it to Thingiverse.
Hope this is useful for other TechZone Huxley owners. Leave a reply if it
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ketil
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Huxley
I did use repsnapper to print, but I guess I used a newer version than you. I also used skeinforge to do the slicing, because repsnappers slicing wasn't giving me good printed results.
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ketil
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Huxley
Have you tried some newer host software? Is there a reason you want to use an old version of repsnapper?
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ketil
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Huxley
Jojo,
Under the "print" tab in repsnapper, you should be able to step 0.1, 1, 10 and 100mm in each direction on each axis, and also run the extruder. I used repsnapper during spring/summer 2011, so I guess that was an old version too, and the various tabs in this tutorial look similar to what I remember.
Another decent test of the mechanics is to home to an endstop, then move 10mm away in one
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ketil
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Huxley
DeuxVis, I modded your tip clamp remake for the J-Head groove mount. I used the measurements from the v5 nozzle holder drawing, so hopefully they are right.
scad and stl attached. Edit: NOTE! These parts are wrong. Please see below.
Edit: whoops, I noticed that the cylinder for the 2 carriage nuts on 180 side was missing from this piece. I'll fix that, and also fix some alignments I've notic
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ketil
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Huxley
DeuxVis, I actually noticed that post yesterday! I don't see how that part helps for a groovemount hotend, though. Perhaps it's made to work with an additional mounting piece. Is that what the two extra holes on the side are for?
One alternative could be a couple of horizontally mounted screws that hold the hotend in down, while it would be restricted upwards by the bowden clamp. I'd have to mod
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ketil
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Huxley
Ok, it's a long time since I set this up, but I'll give it a shot.
Regarding tuning the pots, I think a rule of thumb was that if you just keep the power on for a while, the motors should be quite warm to the touch, but not so hot you can't keep your finger on them. I did that before assembling the printer, with the electronics just wired to the motors.
When you're testing in repsnapper, try jo
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ketil
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Huxley
DeuxVis, I've bought a J-Head extruder from hotends.com that I'm going to integrate as described on the RepRap wiki page Sprinter on gen3 (monotronics). This way I can throw away the tip manager and connect a power resistor and a thermistor directly to the monotronics main board. It should be supported using the Sprinter firmware.
Regarding the mounting, I'm not certain about that yet. I'm think
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ketil
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Huxley
Hey people,
While I firmly agree that buying properly machined pulleys would be a much easier way to get better results, I figured that it would be in the spirit of RepRap to improve prints using printed and imperfect pulleys. Also, it might make RepRap more useful in less accessible locations, where machined pulleys perhaps aren't available.
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ketil
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General
Has there been any more development on this Robot arm repstrap design? I thought it sounded interesting, and a robotic arm could be fairly portable and still give a relatively good build size (possibly in exchange for accuracy, but still).
by
ketil
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Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Does anyone know if work has been done on measuring and correcting for imperfect and/or off-center pulleys? This would mainly be a concern with printed pulleys, but I'm thinking it could really improve the print quality on machines with printed pulleys, given that moving to GT2 belts and machined pulleys make such a big difference.
Edit: I don't mean backlash, but pulleys that aren't perfectly r
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ketil
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General
Hi people, I also have a TechZoneCom Huxley, but I never actually got it printing very well. For some reason I had slack in the hot end itself, so it always printed every second layer on top of the previous one. After I finally found out, the hot end broke. The threading inside the teflon insulater got worn out, so the brass hotend just got pushed right out of the teflon insulater every time, jam
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ketil
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Huxley
Has anyone done any research on cutting paper, other than with lasers? Like with a small sharp knife, pulsating sharp pin/needle, or anything like that? I'm hoping for something safer, easier to source, cheaper, and more legal than lasers.
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ketil
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Mechanics
I think the waterproof issue would be part of the development. Perhaps it is possible to make parts so that they will be waterproof on a well calibrated machine, otherwise dipping the parts in epoxy might be a good solution.
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ketil
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I was tipped off about this very cool project, where a guy built an ROV (remote control submarine with camera) out of PVC pipes and a few standard pumps for propulsion, plus some electronics for controls and some bits and bobs.
I thought it would be extremely cool to make a printable ROV. As much as possible can be printed, including pumps, and it just needs to be made watertight so there's an i
by
ketil
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Has anyone tried using sodium silicate (disodium silicate, actually) as the insulation on your nozzle hot end? I had some other stuff on before, but had to crack it off when my nichrome wire snapped right at the base. I found sodium silicate at the gas station, it's used to fix holes in car exhausts. It's not labelled as toxic, it sets pretty hard after about 24 hours, it's ok with temperatures u
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ketil
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General
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