Show all posts by user
Page 1 of 3
Pages: 123
Results 1 — 30 of 82
QuoteWhat is the best source for blue tape?
I got mine from B&Q
by
glyn
-
Tantillus
Quotemarnargulus
I wouldn't worry about them unless you are trying to do the reverse (turn the fan on or maintain the current temp setting)
That is what I am doing i.e. altering the temp in the g-code but I just realised I can put in M104 S0 to negate the effect anyway.
M104 S0 ; negate default
G28 ; home all axes
M190 S45 ; set bed temp & wait
M140 S55 ; set final bed temp
M104 S190 ; set
by
glyn
-
Slic3r
As an aside, I must have tried every other first layer sticking method with mixed results. I am now using the 3M 2090 tape with very good results.
I am still on my first application of tape but I presume you need to replace the tape now and then.
How long does your tape last?
Quotewillworkforplastic
I think I will also try laser etching a piece of glass
I tried using frosted glass and some of t
by
glyn
-
Tantillus
The two commands
M107 and M104 Snnn
are always placed before the custom g-code.
Why?
Is there any way to disable this or do I have to manually edit the .gcode file to remove them?
by
glyn
-
Slic3r
Meths is highly inflammable too, so common sense applies using all these substances.
by
glyn
-
Reprappers
Bit off topic but have you tried hairspray? I have been getting pretty good adhesion with PLA using this.
I'm using 3mm glass, wipe surface with meths, heat bed to approx 60 deg C then apply a couple of coats of spray.
I've made a cardboard mask so I don't coat the extruder or anything else. Reducing to 55 deg after first layer.
by
glyn
-
Reprappers
I had this problem and now use the slic3r lift option which although not ideal (slightly blobby prints) does solve the drag. I usually put in a lift of half the layer height.
by
glyn
-
General
QuoteAgeinghippy
fwiw - does anyone know of a good resource for openscad scripting documentation/help? Also perhaps a forum of openscad users.
Perhaps there ought to be an OpenScad sub forum here under Software?
by
glyn
-
3D Design tools
Reprap machines mainly use firmware called sprinter or marlin which can be found on github, they might be adapted to work with your project.
by
glyn
-
Reprappers
Interesting item on Thingiverse Hairspray
by
glyn
-
Reprappers
Kapton tape on heated glass (50 deg C) works fine for me, I had a LOT!!! of problems with sticking before this setup.
by
glyn
-
Reprappers
Thanks for the link, I've signed up for 6.002X also.
by
glyn
-
General
I presume it is necessary to have the cable under tension, is this done with a coil spring or some other method?
by
glyn
-
Reprappers
QuoteLodorenos
Wouldn't that only have effect if you turn on a "second" extruder in your firmware?
Also, are there any specifications for the LED or does it not matter?
That is the main power to the extruder heater... works for me.
by
glyn
-
General
See this, looks easy but I bet it isn't.
youtube
by
glyn
-
General
QuoteAdrian
For example, one could imagine an extruder with about five controls and as many sensors, all requiring electrical signals. But it would be a bad idea to specify a big multi-way extruder connector as standard, as that would hamper simple small designs.
Is there any mileage in wireless communication between modules? You can get some pretty cheap bluetooth chips.
by
glyn
-
Developers
Maybe if you search for dual not duel?
by
glyn
-
General
I have just disassembled an old Fujitsu printer and taken out two rods 480mm x 18mm diameter also two stepper motors which are shown here
The rods may be usable and would certainly make really stable axes apart from the fact I can't find a linear bearing to fit them. I suppose I could use something like this?
The motors however being 34v, are they too much trouble to work with?
by
glyn
-
Reprappers
I made this video a while ago to remind myself if I forgot, nophead's method is good too.
video
by
glyn
-
General
Just an update to say that I fixed my hot end problem which turned out to be a worn hobbed bolt, I made another one using the dremel spiked method, (thing) although I did it by hand and amazingly despite the inaccuracies it is working ok.
I have now printed some nice parts using the lift option on slic3r and must say I am impressed with the results, a bit slower but not as blobby as I feared.
So
by
glyn
-
General
QuoteDoes your Z axis move correctly?
Yes it is consistent
QuoteHave you calibrated your Axes, and the extruder?
and accurate.
QuoteTurn on lift/hop to lift the z axis while moving. I have tried to avoid this (extra time & blobs.)
QuoteAdd a fan to cool down the part faster so the plastic doesn't curl up.
QuoteIf you are printing with PLA (not ABS), and you don't have a fan, get one.
PLA yes,
by
glyn
-
General
I have always experienced problems with the print head colliding with the current layer when it moves over part of the already printed area.
This is especially a problem when printing multiple copies of small items as the head will either knock some over or skip multiple steps and so ruin a print run.
What are the possible causes of this?
Thanks.
by
glyn
-
General
QuoteAre the modifications to the Sanguinololu necessary? or will it power the heated be directly?
You can power the resistors directly from the board which I do. Going through the mosfet will allow more current and quicker heating ( I presume).
by
glyn
-
General
I just can't face going back to skeinforge now
btw reducing the nozzle size to 4.95 did produce an infill !
by
glyn
-
Slic3r
If a layer of plastic is cool it is unlikely to warp.
Things that delay cooling.
Too high a bed temperature especially on the first layers.
Fast printing
Objects or vertical surfaces too close to each other.
Lack of airflow
High ambient temperature.
So aim to get the bed to the glass transition as soon as possible after the first layer.
Also note that if the bed is cooled too much by a fan then
by
glyn
-
General
QuoteExactly two times the filament width or anything more than three should get infill.
Is the filament width the width of the extrudate in air?
Mine is about 0.75mm from a 0.5mm nozzle.
The width of the section is 2.6mm so you would think it ought to fill. i.e. 3*0.75=2.25
Another anomaly is that even though I alter the setting to 1 perimeter it is still coming out as 2.
Anyway I will al
by
glyn
-
Slic3r
I'm trying to slice the attached stl and get either a solid fill or basically any fill but seem unable to achieve this, all I end up with is just the perimeters and not even the top layer completed. I've tried various combinations of layer height, number of perimeters, solid levels etc without success.
The only thing which gave me a solid section was to set perimeters to zero which worked but doe
by
glyn
-
Slic3r
What is special about mirror glass?
by
glyn
-
General
Page 1 of 3
Pages: 123