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I've been printing for a while with a 0.5mm nozzle, and I get really good prints. I can print down to ~0.1mm layer heights with no problem whatsoever. That being said, I'm thinking about switching to a 0.35mm nozzle so that I can get better X/Y resolution.
If this is your first printer though, you may want to start with 0.5... it's little bit more forgiving.
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gtg252b
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Reprappers
I've got a fan on there currently, and I've had zero issues with PLA or ABS. I really think that this is just an issue with PVA being very susceptible to humidity. I just got my new rolls of PVA in. I'll report back on how they work out.
As a side note, I'm really impressed with these PVA rolls from protoparadigm. They're individually sealed with desiccant, and they included a few zip-lock b
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gtg252b
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Printing
If you're printing with PLA, a cooling fan will also really help with this issue.
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gtg252b
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Printing
It seems like it would be a fairly simple redesign for the y axis to move the motor to the center and have the rack mounted to the bottom side of your print table. This would eliminate having the rack stick out so far from the rest of the printer.
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gtg252b
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General
I found that I had to keep the speeds down really low with the acceleration at the default 9000, otherwise my motors would skip steps frequently. I currently have the X&Y acceleration set to 500, which allows me to set the top speed much higher in Slic3r without any skipped steps.
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gtg252b
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General
There is a very minimal gap... I've not seen any extruder designs that completely eliminate this. The extruder is designed for 3mm filament, but my hot end is for 1.75, and I've never had a problem before. I think that having the smaller hole getting down to the hot end would only increase the force required to push the filament through, and would make the problem worse (but maybe I'm thinking
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gtg252b
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Printing
I've been printing with PVA for a little over a week now, and initially it was printing quite well. For the past two days however, I haven't been able to get it to extrude consistently. It will work for a little while, and then the filament will just bunch up between the hobbed bold and the hot end. I think the material has absorbed too much humidity from the air and is now just too soft to su
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gtg252b
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Printing
The new interface in 0.7.3-dev is awesome! I can't wait for this to be a stable release. Great work!
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gtg252b
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Slic3r
My PLA sticks to heated glass great.... until the humidity gets above 70% or so. Then it won't stick worth a darn. Did you problem start after a rain? Are you in an air conditioned environment, or a garage?
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gtg252b
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General
So far, the only way I've been able to get ABS to stick is to put blue tape on my heated glass bed. I read this thread about ABS juice and decided to give it a try, and although I'm getting better adhesion than I do if I try to print on the bare glass, I'm still getting very poor adhesion. I've tried a bunch of variations (thick/thin mixes of Acetone/ABS, bed temps from 110 to 130, etc etc), an
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gtg252b
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Reprappers
I built my MendelMax slightly over-sized (but not quite as big as what you're talking about), and everything works great. I used all of the standard parts and 8mm rods. Just make sure that you scale it up correctly so that none of the angles change, because that would make the standard printed parts not work.
As big as you're planning on going, you would probably want to use larger rods to cut
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gtg252b
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General
It was definitely a humidity issue. It happened again this morning. I was getting great adhesion yesterday, but this morning it wouldn't stick for anything. I came to the realization that it rained all last night and I had my window open all morning to enjoy the cool post-rain temperatures. I closed the window and let the A/C dry the air out for a while, and now it's sticking like a champ aga
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gtg252b
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Printing
I haven't checked the thermistor yet, but for whatever reason I started getting good adhesion again yesterday. I honestly have no idea what was causing the issue. It just started adhering again.
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gtg252b
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Printing
Are you using a fan? That helped me immensely with overhangs and bridges.
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gtg252b
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General
Up until now, I was getting really good adhesion of PLA to my heated glass plate. In fact, it was so good that I would have to wait for parts to cool before I could peel them off. For some reason, the adhesion has suddenly turned very poor, and I can't figure out why. I'm using the same heat setting, the same spool of PLA, and the same isopropanol to clean the glass. What could be causing thi
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gtg252b
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Printing
First off, awesome work!
Second, I'm having a slight error in 0.7.1 that wasn't there in 0.7.0. On the first layer of one of my prints that has a lot of start and stops, it's missing the retraction in a few places. This isn't a huge deal, but it does cause the print to have a few ugly blobs wherever the subsequent restart are. Thanks!
(I've also tried 0.7.2-dev and I still get the same issue)
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gtg252b
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Slic3r
That one can't handle enough power to work safely with the heated bed, and the resistance is probably too high to give you much useful adjustment. The more I think about it, the more I'm thinking that a pot probably isn't the best solution. It would be easy, but the power chewed up in the pot could be pretty high. To be safe, you'd want one that could handle ~150Watts. The pots that can handl
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gtg252b
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General
The easiest way would be to wire a potentiometer in series with the heated bed. Turn up the pot and you'll get a larger voltage drop over the pot and less through your heated bed, thus dropping the temperature of the bed. This wouldn't be the most efficient way of doing it since you'd be supplying current constantly and just eating up some of it in the pot, but it would be very easy to implemen
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gtg252b
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General
I just had another weird bug. I was printing a 2x1 array of a part, and on every layer when it moves from the first part to the second, it's not retracting the filament. All of the other moves do fine except for that one.
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gtg252b
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Slic3r
I figured it out. I just wasn't waiting long enough. I assumed that disable the fans for N layers meant that the fans would come on at N+1, but they're actually using an algorithm to determine when to turn them on, and it's usually higher than that. This is a really cool feature!
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gtg252b
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Slic3r
I just tested that at the terminal, and M106 S105 works (~35%), but anything lower doesn't. Maybe there was some current pull from the motors/heaters that made the voltage drop a bit during the run... I'll try running the minimum a bit higher and doing it from the G-code file again.
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gtg252b
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Slic3r
Nudel, I just had the same thing happen. It did a very long retraction about 85% of the way through a long print. I had to pause the print, re-seat the filament, and then resume the print. The G-code is too large to attach here, but I can e-mail it somewhere if one of the devs wants to take a look at it.
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gtg252b
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Slic3r
Cooling - 12 years ago
I really like the idea of being able to have the fan disabled for the first few layers, but when I select the cooling option in 0.7.0, the fan never gets turned on. Has anyone else tried this yet? I can send an M106 command and it comes on fine, but just running the G code it's not coming on. Thanks.
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gtg252b
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Slic3r
Interesting. I get support with that structure (for the two steepest cases), but I have some files that have 90-deg overhangs that aren't getting any support when I slice them. For comparison, I tried this case (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11637), and I get no support. I guess the support algorithm just needs a little more tweaking.
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gtg252b
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Slic3r
Nudel, I think he was complaining more it not actually adding support when you check the support checkbox. Are you getting support when you set this parameter?
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gtg252b
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Slic3r
I'm having the same issue. They just added support in this version of Slic3r, which was released 3 days ago, so it's probably just a bug that will be fixed soon.
Also, thanks to the devs for all the good work on Slic3r. It's the best slicing program I've used yet.
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gtg252b
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Slic3r
Thanks Nudel. I followed your method for doing it the 'proper' way, and it worked perfectly.
I think the issue may have been the curved surfaces in the font of my original stl file.
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gtg252b
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General
I've got a problem with an OpenSCAD design that I can't seem to figure out. I've done a fair amount of Googling for this issue, and I can't find anything. Hopefully someone here can help.
I generated some 3D text in Google Sketchup, then converted it to an STL in MeshLab and imported it to OpenSCAD. It shows up just fine in the OpenSCAD window, but when I try to render it (F6) I get "WARNING:
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gtg252b
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General
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