Show all posts by user
So....
My temp sensor (100k thermistor) started freaking out. Once I got near target temp, it would jump readings + or - 10 degC.
I took the extruder apart, and re-soldered the wires. Yea! Problem should be fixed.
Nope.
I have played around with the temp and found it does fine at 185, as long as its not the target temp. Once the hotend get within 5~10 degrees of the target temp, it starts jum
by
N314
-
General
Hi-
Ive had my Prusa for about 6 months now, and its printing pretty well.
I have one major (however tiny) problem.
The layer alignment is good on one side of the object, but not on the other. Ive found my X assembly, with the X carriage and extruder, is scure from twisting or moving in the X plane but not the Y.
Lining up with my layer alignment issue.
My question is how to I eliminate the
by
N314
-
General
If its thermistor then why is it precisely repeatable and not temp dip/spike in the graph.
This exact firmware has been working fine for months.
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
I get the whole printer stopped for errors thing and that temp is reset.
Not blip in the temp graph... same place repeatable in print.
Help
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
Waiting to make an order from ultimachine to get these... so can someone tell me if they're worth it?
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
Separating X and Y movement is mostly to minimize mechanical complexity/# of parts, and to have a larger build area in a smaller space. As far as print quality, no I don't think there is any disadvantage.
The drawback to using screw on X and Y axis is speed... It would be horribly slow, and there would not be drastic accuracy improvement.
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
Ok im stupid. A good pair of vice grips can do the job fine.
Well now I have the opposite problem... How do I securely attach the linear bearings?
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
Hi-
I just received 12 Linear bearings. Up to now I have been using PLA bushings but hope these will improve quality.
My problem is the PLA bushings are epoxyed on really well. I was able to get them off the Y plate. One of my X end carriages broke so ill have anpther printed.
But its the X carriage i need help with. They are on really well. What is a good way to get them off without damaging
by
N314
-
General
Beuler, Beuler, Beuler...
by
N314
-
General
@Emmanuel
What about price. How much did the peltier you are using cost?
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
I actually need help fixing my Z wobble. Its pretty for the bottom 1~2cm of a print but then gets progressively worse. Ive tried Z constraints, but there was little change if any so im not currently using them. What can I do?
I currently have T5 belts on, how much of a difference is made by switching to T2.5 or how are GT2s?
Also the PLA bushings I received are so-so. Ive thought about replacin
by
N314
-
General
What else can I do besides adding braces?
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
Where would braces go on the frame without obstructing the print?
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
Hi-
I built a Prusa Mendel in the spring of this year.
I have an engineering class coming up in a few weeks and would like to have my printer printing well so I can use it for this class.
What are all the improvements one can:
a. Do fairly cheap as I am a student with a small budget
b. Require actual investment
Im all in for mcgyver solutions as long as they work, I just want to be printing
by
N314
-
General
QuoteRural
but I'm still fuzzy on how much time it takes to go from "I want to print something" to "I've started to print something".
I find or design a file I want to print.
I turn on the extruder and takes ~5 minutes to warm up. During that time I slice the file.
As far as actual printer set up, I place a layer of painters tape on the bed, and extrude about 10mm of filament just before I start
by
N314
-
General
My school has a 3D printer.
Its $30,000
Mine is just about as good and was $500
There are probably some people on this forum who have built machines that outperform it.
Reprap already is cheaper than existing commercial printers.
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
I would love to try new print materials. Let me know when/where I could get them.
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
Not under much stress.
How would ABS fare?
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
Hi-
I have a broken part in my hot-tub I need to replace.
Does anyone know how PLA would fare in 100F, chlorinated water?
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
Quotealhlut
Under the current ToS there is nothing preventing MBI from taking your content and patenting it.
Is that likley? It takes years to get a patent, and like the article says... Think how much technology changes in a few years. The article also point out how patenting can ultimatly hurt the company. Read the article again and apply that tho your statment.
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
Oh, sorry, read that wrong.
But I still stand on how nice thingiverse is for being "Cental" if you will, and easy to use.
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
Kt Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Thing is nothing Thingiverse is doing can't be
> replicated and run by the community. It's just
> there hasn't been a motivation before, now there
> is.
> I expect to see several viable Thingiverse
> alternatives within the next few weeks, with less
> restrictive TOS, so the choice will be clear.
> The fac
by
N314
-
General
Before I start, I want to say I am just giving a different viewpoint on whats been happening recently... I dont want to upset anyone.
Ok, so we all know there is a lot of talk about thingiverse recently.
The "new" terms of use say stuff about irrovocably giving the company rights to your design. Yes this may be true, and some people are worried about thingiverse stealing your idea and profiting
by
N314
-
General
Well the extruder will have to be calibrated to twice as much.
195? What type are you using? I have 4043D and extrude at 188.
Quoted form the wiki:
"Heater Settings
Depending on which material you use, you should adjust your heat accordingly.
4032D requires higher temperatures and may need to be set as high as 230°C
4042D should extrude at 190°C
4043D 160-220°C around 180 is a good start (see
by
N314
-
General
1. I use loctite plastic epoxy
2. I don't know, but it is biodegradable so i wouldn't think so, but ABS might.
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
Ok something weird has happened.
I found an old UPS and plugged both computer and printer into it.
It didn't work.
But in one last test I was running a dry print. I had someone else turn on the fan... The serial connection did not stop and the print kept running. Then, They turned off the fan. The Serial lights stopped, and the printer a few seconds later.
So the Serial connection is the probl
by
N314
-
General
What is the best/easiest way i can get a good finish on the bottom of my part with out a HPB. Any miracle materials for cold print beds?
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
jcabrer Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Known causes of print freeze include:
>
> 1. Turning on appliances that draw lots of
> current, like microwaves, ceiling fans, Air Con.
>
> 2. Windows 7 64-Bit.
>
> 3. Some Arduino MEGA 2560 R3.
>
> 4. USB power management enabled.
Yes 1. Definitely
No 2. Running window
by
N314
-
General
Ive found a few cheap UPS's on amazon.
Do you think these would solve the fan surge issue?
-Nick
by
N314
-
General
Specs:
12Volts, RAMPS 1.4, Old dell (probably like 2002-2005ish), pronterface.
Not to be dumb but Im no engineer, whats a UPS?
-Nick
by
N314
-
General