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Can anybody that uses flexible build plates tell me how thick their spring steel plate is? (not the bottom plate with magnets but the top plate that has the printing surface attached).
Going to try a DIY on my own but need a starting thickness.
Thanks
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tmorris9
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General
I just got a new Mac with the latest OS and I found out that my Netfabb Basic no longer works and they stopped supporting it on Mac.
I used it all the time to fix models. I tried the online version but a lot of the time I get random errors saying model would not upload and when they do they just seem to disappear (no trace of them online and no message telling me they are done).
Is there anoth
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tmorris9
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General
Yea you can find these everywhere but the problem is the last 4 sets I ordered were unusable. The rubber (or vinyl) insulators are so slippery that when you squeeze the clips the clip inside slips and rolls to the side. It makes them pretty much useless. I’ll even take a source for the alligator clips with insulators without wire as long as I can get ones that are good and not so slippery inside
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tmorris9
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General
I tried this (not really needed on this part but just playing with it. I did 2 perimeters but I think I can get away with 1 as I have pretty good bed adhesion. I noticed that Simplify3D also has an ooze shield feature that basically does the same thing so you could use a wide brim and use the ooze shield as well. The ooze shield has a few option, one is that it curves inward if the object narrows
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tmorris9
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General
So I print mostly ABS and I have an enclosure but still occasionally get warping off the bed (though no cracked parts since the enclosure) and I had a sudden thought, what about using a brim at a heat shield? Just make the brim as tall as the print and either 1 or 2 perimeters. I am just curious if anybody has used this and if so how well did it work?
I see Cura has an experimental draft shield
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tmorris9
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General
OK so I am thinking of getting a 3D pen and am looking for recommendations. 2 things I would really like is one that can do ABS as well as PLA & one that takes 3mm filament (since I have 30 rolls or so on hand at any given time). Now the last one is not an absolute must but it would be handy to use the filament I already own. If everybody says the best pen by far is but uses 1.75 well I gues
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tmorris9
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General
Thanks for the recommendations. Going to give these a try
The_Digital_Dentist Mostly this is for gluing magnets to plastic for use in my home and here in Southern CA indoors is normally 55f-80f so nothing major.
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tmorris9
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General
I have always counted on JB Weld (Epoxy) for super strong bonds but lately I have had magnets glued to ABS and they come loose from the plastic side but not the magnet side (can't get it off the magnets so it's strong). It peels cleanly off the ABS plastic leaving nothing on the ABS at all and leaving a perfect imprint of the print texture in the JB Weld.
So, what is a good very strong and long
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tmorris9
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General
I print with ABS and I put mine inside my heated chamber and have done so for 4 years. I think it helps keep the filament warm and moisture free (yes ABS can be affected by moisture just not as easily as other filaments). I have probably run 60 rolls inside the chamber but again it's almost always ABS. I do use PLA but rarely.
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tmorris9
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Reprappers
Update: The timer that I picked up to test (same one Dancer linked to) ended up doing the job.
Thanks
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tmorris9
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General
Ha, that’s the same model I ordered for testing. I think it’s going to work. Thanks.
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tmorris9
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General
I had the same problem (spent 4 very messy hours first time) then someone mentioned "Rapid Remover" and it works but it needs help in the form of a GOOD razor scraper ( A cheap one will hurt you) and you should be able to clean off all the glue in 10 minutes.'
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tmorris9
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General
Vincent, that was a good idea but apparently those are much more common in the UK. I only found a few 110v units and the highest time on those was 7 minutes. Most of them are 220v so I assume it's more used in the UK.
I did order a timer for lights that has 6 buttons for 6 different times to test our, I might have to hack into it and add a remote switch to only the 20 minute button but if I have
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tmorris9
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General
I am designing a product and need help finding something I thought would be easy. I need something that will turn on a 120v light for 20 minutes then turn it off. Ideally it would have a start button that would be pressed to set it on for 20 minutes then do the same next time it's pressed. It needs to run on the same 120v supply (no power supplies 5v, 12v or other).
Years ago I had this small bo
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tmorris9
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General
Just to throw a thought in here. What if you printed them ever so slightly larger than you want them (the whole I mean) and then dip or spray on bees wax to coat the plastic to the correct size. This way they only touch the wax. Just need to figure out how to apply the wax like a coat of paint. An airbrush and hot wax might work.
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tmorris9
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General
More than likely (happens with kits) you ended up with a wire pinched or loose somewhere that ends up shorting out and kills the board. As I was reading your story to the point where they sent you a second board I immediately said he's gonna fry it. You need to check your wires everywhere, make sure there is no wire that has been pinched, rubbed raw or any exposed copper. It's very easy to do esp
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tmorris9
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General
Don't know about a filament that is more or less photogenic but light control should make them better (I am a photographer). Try to prevent direct light by blocking it with a piece of paper or tissue paper, just hold it over the object and look at it from where you want to shoot and move the paper around until you see the hot spots disappear. Also an overcast day is great for shooting outside as
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tmorris9
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General
Thanks everybody!
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tmorris9
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General
I have a friend that makes all the signs for a local school district and they need a solution. They use numbers painted on a paved lot to get kids to line up (I don't know what exactly for). Up to now they used laser cut stencils to paint the pavement but it wears off very fast. He asked me about making little pucks like road markers with number on top that they could glue to the pavement. I can
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tmorris9
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General
Actually I think Richard (RichRap) was one of the early people to use sharpie to color filament as it entered the extruder. He also showed how you can dye nylon filament all kinds of color with RIT fabric dye.
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tmorris9
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General
24 volts dc at those currents used could be fatal, dc kills faster than ac
Where did you get this idea?
I use to work on cars and the occasional big rig with 24 volt batteries (hundreds of ams available) and I would often grab hold of both posts and could not even feel it. In fact with DC I need around 100volts to even feel it in my hands and then I can barely feel it. Also I use to have RC rac
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tmorris9
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General
I've seen people mention glass sagging in the middle so many times yet it's almost always (like 99%) the rods on your X axis that are sagging not the glass. The only reason we really use glass is because it's almost always very flat and level where are metals can bend.
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tmorris9
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General
Not really condoning what you are doing but.... They make non conductive coolant for computers so they would not short out the high voltage if spilled.
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tmorris9
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General
It might also be that the PEI you are using has too smooth of surface (Looks glossy?). Hit it with some 1,500 grit sandpaper until it's not glossy anymore, then clean it with some isopropyl alcohol. If that does not do it then as mentioned you need to lower the Z axis to give more of a push into the PEI.
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tmorris9
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Printing
A good crimped connection is best but not as convenient. If you want to be able to remove it you might consider some of the hobby 2 prong plug connections, they are designed with low voltage high current in mind (some can take 35-50 amps) I like EC3 connectors myself but only the 'real' ones, lots of fakes that won't hold 1/4 of the amperage.
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tmorris9
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General
Bad connections cause resistance which causes heat then that causes worse connection which is more resistance and thus more heat. So this is caused by the connection starting to be bad and it snow balls from there. If you are going to use those screw terminals be sure to check them for tightness every once in awhile. A little loos or a little corrosion and this is what you end up with.
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tmorris9
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General
Not exactly printer related but I figure there is a great knowledge pool here that can help me.
I am 3D printing some replica cast iron street lights that will be LED and I want a duel wire that is really tiny like originally came with pocket radios in the 60's and 70's like in the photo below.
I can't even think what to call it and what gauge it is so it's near impossible to find any in Google
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tmorris9
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Reprappers
I have no first hand knowledge but a quick Google search turned this up [3dprint.com]
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tmorris9
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General
I've had my share of sudo cheap calipers ($30-$60) but I finally bought a used Mitutoyo for $35. They were a bit abused (lots of grinding sparks hit the display and scale) but I took them apart, filed down any burs, cleaned them as best I could and they are great. What I love about good calipers is that I can pull it all the way out and push back in quickly (not something you should do) and yet i
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tmorris9
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General
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