For my 2¢ the current 0.9.9v is best and most solid. Still a few bugs but really good. Before that 0.7.2b was the best. Again just my 2¢ worth.by tmorris9 - Slic3r
Like I said: "As for other editing, you really should convert to another format first. Netfabb Basic (also free) can convert to many 3D formats that can then be taken into many different 3d programs for editing. "by tmorris9 - General
Just wanted to show an example 50x magnification shot of a shear break as well as the side print. Just sharing in case anyone is curious.by tmorris9 - General
I am mostly interest in the pull strength it takes to break a product (tensile) I would imagine the bond between layers would be the weak point. I was going to buy a cheap scale that shows maximum weight when it breaks but I guess ones that register the maximum are not cheap. As an example I can buy a 100lb digital hanging scale for $20 but a 100lb dyno (that does register breaking strength) isby tmorris9 - General
Is there any data on ABS printed part tensile strength? I know there are a lot of variables but I am about to start selling some printed parts and need to know they will hold up to the abuse they will take. I already plan on doing some destructive testing but wondered if there was already any data out there that I could look at. Also any UV exposure data to see how parts will act with exposureby tmorris9 - General
Repetier Host, Slic3r & Kisslicer all allow you to change the size. All are free. As for other editing, you really should convert to another format first. Netfabb Basic (also free) can convert to many 3D formats that can then be taken into many different 3d programs for editing. I have never had much luck loading stl files into Sketchup. About 3 out of 5 it won't.by tmorris9 - General
Thanks for all the info. When I get a chance I will do some testing with the "extrusion multiplier". Any idea which way I need to go with it? It's at 1 now (was default) so maybe start off with .8 or something?!?by tmorris9 - General
I actually found a pretty good article on it here The only "flow rate" I see in Slic3r is for bridges. I do see a function called Extrusion multiplier that I have no idea what it's function is, maybe that's it. But from that article it looks like there is no one single cure/ Maybe one day they will find a calculation and put it right in the slicer. Thanks!by tmorris9 - General
So is this a pretty normal thing then for all printers? If so, maybe there is a formula to calculate the proper size.by tmorris9 - General
I am using an Airwolf 3D printer and it's Repetier on Gen 6 board. If I print a box, the outsides are within 0.01mm of the size I make them but if I then put a hole through it side to side or top to bottom then the hole is always a bit smaller than I make them. As an example I just made a Gopro tripod mount and wanted a hex inset in the bottom for a 1/4-20 nut. The nut outside measures 10.9mm (by tmorris9 - General
With the newest version I just use the defaults, the program will try to figure out the best if you leave them at "0". The latest version will work pretty good with most prints with no adjustments.by tmorris9 - Slic3r
I use PET tape on glass with ABS Acetone slurry and I never have parts lift or warp anymore. One thing that stopped the corners lifting or warping (for me at least) is that I lowered the bed temperature to 90-95c. I know everybody says 110c is best but I always had warping (yes I tested the temp with multiple thermometers to assure it was correct). But since I dropped the temp a little I never haby tmorris9 - General
Yes, I mean hook the frame to "earth ground" not just negative side of the power supply. Is your power supply properly grounded?by tmorris9 - General
How about grounding the printer. It sounds like you have a floating ground.by tmorris9 - General
The newest Slic3r support is actually easier to remove than older versions. It looks like it just almost does not touch the surface meaning that when the first supported layer prints it's laying on top of the support and not melted into the support. I recently printed a 4" skull and when it printed I thought it would be horrific getting all the support out of it. It was all the way around the baby tmorris9 - General
Just watched the video, one question, why is everybody in the video starring way off to the side. Don't they know you should look into the camera. Oh well.by tmorris9 - General
I was just thinking that without heat it might be a little safer, maybe not. I see people are using the ultrasonic pond foggers (all metal) to create gas vapor. Supposedly to get better fuel milage. Lots of YouTube videos about it. If you used a fogger, maybe it could be in a closed container as there should not be any pressure build up so no need for a vent, thus no flammable vapors spewing outby tmorris9 - General
Has anybody tried using a high frequency piezo fogger with acetone for smoothing ABS? I am thinking about those ones used in tabletop fountains to make fog. Most are in a plastic case but I bet the guts could be harvested and used bare on in metal. Not sure if it would work on acetone like it does water but it might be an alternative to the volatile heat method.by tmorris9 - General
I was having problems with the last version putting support through the wall of a hollow hallow dome but this version seems to work better and did not protrude through.by tmorris9 - General
3D printing can be addicting. I suggest reading the forum while you wait and also check out to see some of the things you can download and print.by tmorris9 - General
So I always use PET film and print in ABS. It's worked fine this way ever since I got my printer. So my film was getting pretty beat up (ran the nozzle into it a few times) so I decided it was time to apply a new sheet. I did so and set it aside for the night. The next day I wanted to do a print so I put my ABS/Acetone slurry on the glass and fired up the printer. My first print came loose pretby tmorris9 - General
"Do you happen to know of a supplier in the US as well? " Probably McMaster.com McMaster Carrby tmorris9 - General
We buy filament by weight so I just weigh the end product to find material cost. Right now my average is $1.63 an ounce. So if a part costs say $3 in filament then $3.25-$3.50 would easily cover the costs including electricity, machine wear but not labor.by tmorris9 - General
I don't print with PLA but I can say that Dupli-Color makes a great product called filler primer that is great on ABS, it's a heavy primer that fills in scratches and small gaps. You paint it on very heavy (it won't run like paint). Then once dried you paint it. It's kind of like an automatic body filler.by tmorris9 - General
You could just get a $2 7805 regulator and hook up the 12V and get 5V out. No need for filtering or anything for fans. They will handle a 1A load so that's not an issue.by tmorris9 - General
I am disappointed to see so many closed minds here. Smells a little elitist. I think RepRap is great and open source is also great. But I would rather have choices in the world to make it myself or to buy one. I don't own a MBI product but I don't hate them in the least for what they are doing. They are not attacking do it yourself machines (at least not that I can see). Choices are always good.by tmorris9 - General
Printing small parts for equipment I make for a living. Repair parts for things around the house. iPhone docks so I don't have to buy them and jewelry for family and friends.by tmorris9 - General
Might help if you mention what version of Slic3rby tmorris9 - Slic3r