aeronaut Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > waitaki Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Car battery any good? > > +1 on that. There are easy circuits to have a 12V > battery trickle charged by line power while > allowing line 12V to power the machine, but if > power fails, the battery picks up the slby tmorris9 - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ah yes 70C is no problem, I was thinking of 130C > for ABS. > > It does take a long time for the Z axis to decend > 200mm but I switch the bed on first so no time is > wasted. I saw someone used Sugru (silicone putty) and it can handle up to 180c for extended time. I have some covering up my heated bed sby tmorris9 - Repetier
I think the genie is already out of the bottle. With home made printers made from off the shelf products I don't think it could ever be stopped.by tmorris9 - General
I have no idea what caused this and hopefully it was a one time thing but thought it would be worth mentioning. My machine has an external controller for the heated bed (not computer controlled) and I have gotten pretty good at deciding when to hit print so the hot end catches up with the heated bed. Tonight though I hit print a bit soon and the bed was not hot yet, I just figured I would hit paby tmorris9 - Repetier
I had this problem as well, despite all the info saying 100 to110c is a good temp for the heated bed. I turned my heated bed down to 90c (yes measured accurately confirmed with multiple methods) and my warping went away completely.by tmorris9 - General
Think it's legal to use others copyrighted material or IP for personal use? Ask the family that painted their newborn sons room with Dr. Sues characters. It made the local news and soon to follow was a lawsuit from the company that owns the works. They were court ordered to paint over the sues like characters and not paint them again. This of course made national news and gave the Sues companyby tmorris9 - General
Been fighting with my bridge issue some more to isolate the problem and I noticed something. No matter what I set the bridge speed to (Slic3r 7.2b) the perimeters of the bridge print with the perimeter speed. I tested this theory by setting the perimeter speed to 125 (set 3 perimeters) and the bridge speed to 8 and sure enough, it went back and fourth 6 times (3 perimeters) at full speed beforeby tmorris9 - General
>>>How about putting it in a plastic bag, then into hot water....sort of boil in the bag! That would probably work. But it's super easy with a heat gun and maybe with a hair dryer so why reinvent the wheel.by tmorris9 - General
I heard both of these. It's cold here now so I can't try the car. I was afraid of melting in the oven.by tmorris9 - General
I kept breaking visor clips in my car (poor design) so one of the first real things I made was a heavy duty replacement. I still have both in my car and they still work perfect. I also manufacture UV curing ovens for epoxy, I needed bolt standoffs in a size that does not exist, I use to cut PVC pipe to the proper size but now I print them.by tmorris9 - General
I know this may be something known to many but I thought I would post in case it helps some one new. So, my ABS spools where always unwinding them selves wildly when I first opened them. The ABS wanted to be in a straight line not on the spool. I fought with this for awhile and noticed it varied from vendor to vendor but the vendor that is close to me and has a descent price was the worst as farby tmorris9 - General
>>>In the video the bridge speed was 40 and temp was 230. >>>I normally print ABS at 240c and the default for bridge speed was 80 though I tried down to 40. Nozzle is a .35mmby tmorris9 - General
I get pretty good prints on everything but bridges so I decided to do some testing. No matter what settings I use in Slic3r (speed, bridge speed, temp....) I end up with about the same results. If I print smaller things that have bridges they fail but not as bad as this bridge only test. Most items with no bridges seam to print pretty good. I don't know anything about the software on the boarby tmorris9 - General
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Use a solid state relay. That's what I am using. > It can handle many quick on/off cycles with no > issues at all. > > Depends on what you consider to be "quick". Solid > state relays can switch only as fast as the mains > frequency (50/60 Hz). ATmega's PWM starts at 61 Hz > and goes up to 65 kHz (by tmorris9 - General
>>> Did you modify anything in the firmware? Since I am currently running a Gen 6 board it's not capable of running the heated bed so I am using a $35 separate PID controller off ebay.by tmorris9 - General
Use a solid state relay. That's what I am using. It can handle many quick on/off cycles with no issues at all.by tmorris9 - General
I once had an issue with the power connection at the hotend. after it would get to a certain height the wire would bend a bit and lose connection and would do what you describe. Also maybe the plastic is not good, is it from a good supplier or is it maybe an off brand (China) where the quality is not consistent?by tmorris9 - General
Thanks for the info. Because I have a budaschnozzle I can actually remove the tip so it's fully open at 3mm diameter. This should make it easier to clear out the old material since it does not have to go through the nozzle.by tmorris9 - General
So I have always used ABS and my machine has a Budaschnozzle. Today with an order of ABS from Ultimachine they game me a few sample pieces of PLA. Is it a bad thing to switch over? Will I just clog up the hotend? If I can switch back and forth, are there any precautions to take (besides lowering the temp)? Or is it just a bad idea to run both in the same nozzle? Thanks!by tmorris9 - General
Repetier host does not have a built in version of Slic3r but rather you point it to your version (any version) that you have and it will go use it. As long as the saved parameters are saved in the default location (different for Windows or Mac) then they will show up in Repetier host. There is a Repetier forum in the "software" section here. The author answers questions there fairly regularly soby tmorris9 - General
I use 3mm ABS and I seem to always have flow issues with purple and get the best overall results with natural. I understand the natural thing since there are no pigments mixed in but I am wondering if it's a coincidence or not that I have more issues with purple than any other color. Here is what happens, I normally infill at around 110mm/s but with purple loaded the nozzle seems to run dry at tby tmorris9 - General
>>Why not just build a pid controller for the heated bed if you want to stick with gen6? Well, I actually just did this, finished it today. While I am an electronic guy, I am not savvy with the software, firmware whatever so I was hoping to just copy it from my drive (a copy came with my printer) to a gen 6 Deluxe board. Also I was working with the builders (AirWolf 3D) to maybe get thby tmorris9 - General
akhlut Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Why do you want one? Does it matter? I have an Airwolf printer that uses the no deluxe version so no heated bed control (on or off only) and I want to use one to control the temp.by tmorris9 - General
Where in U.S. can I get a gen 6 deluxe board? I can't find any in stock and have been looking for over a month. Thanks!by tmorris9 - General
I have attached 4 photos of ABS shot with a 50X ProScope HD (digital microscope) the lens is only 50x but still way more than you can see with magnifying glasses (about 10 times closer). I had 2 identical pieces, one was raw out of the printer, one was acetone dipped (actually painted on). I took photos of the top and edge of the item. The dipped one is better sealed but the surface is wavy a bby tmorris9 - General
In the U.S. try McMaster.com Lots of raw materials as well as hardware used in printers.by tmorris9 - General
There are some pretty major infill problems with 0.9.7. Just try printing a hollow tube, it will print random infills every 3-4 layers where there should be NO geometry. If you print something like a coffee cup, it may or may not end up with some random layers partway up inside the mug as well.by tmorris9 - Slic3r
If you need to produce these over and over and getting them right is more important that printing them yourself, why not print one, make a silicone mold and fill with a strong plastic resin. If you need more info on this let me know, I have done this quite a few times.by tmorris9 - Slic3r
Idolcrasher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Cool trek pins > > Got a brand of prefered filler primer? Yes, Dupli-Color. Normally sold at automotive paint stores andby tmorris9 - General
WHen I want my ABS to be very clean (to paint and look like a finished part) I paint them with a filler primer first, this is a thick primer that fills in any pin holes, scratches and lines. I give it a few coats and then add the final paint color. I would think you could do the same with PLA. I have attached a few example. The purple one was dipped in acetone, the painted rough one was just paby tmorris9 - General