Slic3r does not give you a display of the object. The display I show is by loading the sliced object into Repetier Host. This program has a 3d display. Slic3r only shows the outline of the top down view. Like a silhouette.by tmorris9 - Slic3r
can you be more specific than "incorrectly"? Granted 0.9.7 has a lot of issues and I don't use it often, I am still using the most stable version 0.7.2b That being said I sliced your file without noticing anything unusual in 9.7. Attached is a screen grab depicting what the stl looks like (in green) and what the sliced gcode looks like (in blue) and I see no major issues.by tmorris9 - Slic3r
The parts produced shown on their site look a bit messy, not very clean. But then again if you have a limited budget you can't beat $200.by tmorris9 - General
Normally silicone heaters are used for their flexible nature (to wrap around items being heated) the one thing to be careful about with silicone heaters is if they are not controlled (just powered up and left) they will have thermal runaway and burn up. If you have a controller or software issue that cause to heat bed to turn on and stay on it may ruin the heater. Also they tend to not have the sby tmorris9 - General
While I don't know what you are making, and I am fairly new to 3D printing (3 months) I can tell you a few things I have learned. First is that natural color ABS is stronger that colored (by 10-15%). Smaller layer heights are stronger. And dipping parts for a few seconds in acetone (1-3 seconds only, any more will melt the part) will strengthen the bond between layers. Also higher infill up to 10by tmorris9 - Slic3r
This is a Slic3r question. But just download Netfabb basic (free) and it will fix it for you.by tmorris9 - Repetier
When I had issues finding PET film like I wanted I decided to open a small supply store. Right now it's PET film, application fluid (makes applying the film easier and less bubbles) and a felt lined squeegee to apply. Also a great tool to help remove printed parts from the plate. Borosilicate glass coming very soon.by tmorris9 - For Sale
I love the idea of this. I think like many that the feeding of the auger would be the biggest hurdle. Might want to look into how injection molding machines do it. I think a solid immobile head with a 3 axis bed would be a good way. Just think, you only buy a bunch of natural material and then small amounts of pigment pellets and mix and match colors as you wish.by tmorris9 - General
In slic3r under Printer settings/ print center. Maybe it's not matching exactly what your printer is. Like on my printer the print bed is 200 x 200 so the default is 100 x 100 but it's not right for my printer. On mine the setting 93 x 113 is center so that's what I put into slicer. Just a thought.by tmorris9 - Repetier
So I was digging the new slic3r because some prints looked a lot better than even 0.7.2b (the gold standard). But then I ran into the infill bug where you can't print something with a hole down the center (like an open picture frame) as it will try to do random weird infills once every 3-5 layers. Well it looks like it also does not like cylinders in general that are hollow except the bottom (liby tmorris9 - General
While you can change it (I think) the default is User/ Library/ Application Support/ Slic3r/ Print/by tmorris9 - Slic3r
Sorry can't tell anything from that photo. How about attaching the gcode file. That being said 0.9.5 was known to have issues with infills. 0.7.2b does great infills and pretty good surface. 0.9.7 (latest version right now) does good infills and great surface but items with holes (think picture frame with no picture) it does random infills where there should be none, makes it useless for these tby tmorris9 - Slic3r
The saving prefs are in Slic3rs .INI file. And Repetier host uses this file. In Slic3r go to the print settings and you will see (assuming any of the 0.9.?? versions) output options. In this field is the naming options. Mine says .35mm Nozzle.gcode This will save it as the same as the original name with ".35mm Nozzle.gcode" added to the end. You can change that to whatever you like. Mine iby tmorris9 - Slic3r
Yea, it's a known bug. I ran into this today. It's already been submitted to support. For now on holed items I am reverting back to 0.7.2b Too bad as the surface of items in 0.9.7 are a bit smoother.by tmorris9 - Slic3r
// I've heard the general rule of thumb is not to use a layer height more than 60% of your nozzle diameter. This seems logical, however my in theory then my .35 nozzle should not use a layer height of more than .21 but I regularly print at .25 (not a major difference but still a difference) and it works fine that way. Maybe on my next prints I will try .21 instead and compare to see if there isby tmorris9 - General
If you set the perimeters to 5 it should do 5. I did a cube 2 days ago and set it to 6 perimeters and it did 6. Not sure why you are only getting 2 unless there is a place in the geometry that would limit this. Like if there is a spot where only 2 would fit, I would think it would limit it to 2 total.by tmorris9 - Slic3r
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I understood that the printer was inside a box so > air drafts shouldn't have been an issue. You understood correctly.by tmorris9 - General
Wow, that thing has over 600,000 faces. I would also guess it's a memory issue.by tmorris9 - Slic3r
Retraction is under "Printer Settings / Extruder 1" Cooling, did you click on "Enable cooling" in the top of the window? If won't do anything if you don't. Changing perimeters has nothing to do with amount of infill it's just how many perimeters the outer walls are made of. I have never used Concentric so I don't know about this. Otherwise everything you mentioned works fine for me.by tmorris9 - Slic3r
Your head or carriage would likely crash into the first print.by tmorris9 - Slic3r
I have heard that a good way to do this is to print another object(s) at the same time so it goes back and forth between them giving cooling time. If you just pause it would leave a glop in the spot it stopped. Moving up would lessen this but it may be difficult to get it to go back down the the exact same height and may mess up the rest of the print. I think the multiple objects at once is theby tmorris9 - Slic3r
It's possible the stl file has some issues that Slic3r does not like. Upload the object so we can see.by tmorris9 - Slic3r
akhlut Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You need a PID controller for the bed. Or upgrade > the electronics. Yea, I am trying to figure out which is best. I have set up PD controls a few times in the past. I don't know how easy it is to swap out my gen6 for a gen6 deluxe (supports heated bed). It's not the electronics that worry me it's the software or firmby tmorris9 - General
VDX Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ... try to reduce the bed temp in 5deg-steps until > the print won't distort in the lower region - it's > a known effect with too hot bed temp .. heard > people calling this 'elephant legs' > ('Elefantenfüße' in German) > > The 107degC reading could be wrong - some are > printing with 110degC without prby tmorris9 - General
Example with heat on all through print and off upon print start (starting at full temp but cooling as it goes). So am I right that the bed needs to be cooler or am I overlooking some other variable? P.S. My bed actually gets to about 107c when left on. I wonder what the best temperature would be for a heated bed with ABS?by tmorris9 - General
I have been doing some testing with a 1" cube, I tried a few things that all failed to make a difference, then I noticed that after printing the cube was still soft. I figured maybe I have too much heat so I turned off the heated bed when it was around 65c and printed (it would get cooler and cooler) and the cube came out 99.9% perfect. So now I guess I need a way to lower the bed temperature. Mby tmorris9 - General
Not sure but it's probably around 35-40c Not an oven but it would be uncomfortable to live in.by tmorris9 - General
So I have this problem on most anything that I print that's over 2" tall. Near the bottom layer corners bend inward I notice it seems to be related to inner fills, Like if I have a solid layer at 1/4" from the bottom then it will stop at the 1/4" mark but if there is a solid layer at 1/2" then it may end at 1/2" It does not happen every time even with the same object. I thought it was heat (orby tmorris9 - General
I just thought I would chime in here. While I am not (yet) qualified to contribute, I would be a subscriber to a magazine on 3d Printer (reprap style not $$$ commercial units). While I would read an electronic version if I had to, I still prefer my magazines in printed form.by tmorris9 - RepRap magazine
Don't know how I missed that setting thanks!. I always print with linear infill. At least with the compensation I should be able to get closer. Repetier: I assume you are the author? If so thanks for the program. You did a very good job. Maybe you should write a slicer program :-)by tmorris9 - Repetier