Show all posts by user
Do you have pictures of what happens, and what do you mean with extruder, the hotend or the extruder? If the extruder stops, this could mean there is a blockage in the hotend, for example by forming a 'plug' also caused by heat creep up the hotend after the previous print sometimes. It could also mean that during the first layer the nozzle is too close to the bed. Anyway, pictures. I believe this
by
Ohmarinus
-
Printing
QuoteDust
Have you seen my MK2 power supply case? Its the prusa one but in scad so you can edit it to fit your supply (presuming its a rectangle)
Yes that filament runout sensor works on any 5v controller.
The standard mk3s extruder works well...
Check the length of that runour sensor cable. A lot of these clones parts are being supplied with 160mm cables, but needs longer in real mk3s's.
by
Ohmarinus
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteleadinglights
I have found 3 of the original 5 dummy hotend blocks that I used some years ago to do the failure test. I think I will try a repeat of the earlier test with different compounds - with and without copper shims to fill the gap. Machining new blocks to fit the resistors would be a pain - and wouldn't guarantee that the next batch would have the same diameter.
Mike
Maybe I have s
by
Ohmarinus
-
General
Quoteleadinglights
The hotend is my own design but uses a vitreous enamel wirewound resistor instead of a heater cartridge. The reason for this is that I was an early adopter of heater cartridges but they let me down badly - I have never had a WW resistor fail.
Part of the problem here is that this design uses a very small resistor which is over-run to the wazoo and beyond: The element wire temp
by
Ohmarinus
-
General
I believethe throat of the hotend in a v6 is more important and besides that, when using for example a titanium throat, I do not believe the top part gets hotter than 50% of the nozzle temp. I would try to calculate how hot the contact surface really gets, I think a thermal compound with a max between 250° and 300° would be fine in most cases unless you are printing in excess of 300°.
What hoten
by
Ohmarinus
-
General
QuoteVDX
... pretty the same, as in your design, but 90deg turned belts is the "stone-old" buildup, used for flatbed-plotters and such
Have one in A3, which has NEMA17 steppers one for every axis (long rod with two pulleys for the two Y-belts).
Oh look at that, that actually looks very inspiring, and similar to the Roland machine I have sitting here, being all dormant in a corner because
by
Ohmarinus
-
Mechanics
Quoterorypettit
QuoteJohnLovaasen
I have a TAZ Pro printer that I'm upgrading to print higher temperature materials. I have the PT100 + amplifier board from E3D. I've used this setup previously on a TAZ 6 with a RAMBo board where I plugged the signal wire into an extra analog input pin and changed the pin assignments. Now that the TAZ Pro uses an Archim2.2b board, I'm having a problem finding an
by
Ohmarinus
-
Controllers
You can try to dehumidify the filament, but really.. I wouldn't know how to deal with a variable that is constantly changing. If you can't predict it, it's basically very hard to use for a 3D-printer.
So if it's moisture, you could try oven-drying it, google that. If that doesn't help I would personally not use the filament or only do small prints with it.
by
Ohmarinus
-
Printing
The machine I'm now going to build will be able to draw A0 format, my previous machine has a build format of 450x550mm and uses CoreXY, but it's reaching a limitation and that is that the belt paths are becoming excessively long.
I've been looking for examples but can only find large CNC machines using Nema23 motors and everything beefy. I want this machine to be lightweight and the X-carriage i
by
Ohmarinus
-
Mechanics
Hi, I wanted to share something that I discovered. It's quite simple really.
I'm printing on Kapton, and so far everything sticks to it, ABS, PLA, PETG. All good. In between prints I usually clean the bed with some acetone on a paper towel while using protective gloves since acetone eats the fat away from your skin tissue causing all kinds of issues.
But there is one really important things I l
by
Ohmarinus
-
Printing
Luckily all the data is written on the driver itself:
QuoteDust
You have made life really difficult for yourself by getting a stepper driver that is not supported.
Leave #define E0_DRIVER_TYPE commented out.
You need to set timing manually, you need to extract the data from the stepper drivers datasheet.
In Configuration_adv.h find the following and set to your drivers requirements.
/**
*
by
Ohmarinus
-
Firmware - Marlin
Not bad for a first try!
First of all, what filament are you using? PLA? ABS? PETG?
If it's PLA, you need a hotend that has PTFE tube in the throat or else the filament can get stuck if the surface isn't perfectly smooth inside of the hotends throat/transition zone. Also, if it's PLA, you need a part cooling fan. But the print seems to fail because the filament gets stuck as I can see the furth
by
Ohmarinus
-
General
Can it be the problem that there are no endstops connected? I believe you also need to connect endstops in this case or else the machine will think that the axis has run into the endstop and not allow motion if it keeps being seen as triggered.
by
Ohmarinus
-
RAMPS Electronics
Quoteknn7
Dust , we are using a 12V supply to power the RAMPS and been using A4988 Stepper driver.
Attaching the snippet of the connection
Just some advice, never run an axis without a stepper motor connected!
by
Ohmarinus
-
RAMPS Electronics
QuoteRik Snelder
The top side is made op polycarbobonate, but the motion system will be covered up by the bellows so you won't be able to see from above anyways...
However, there is a polycarbonate window in the front door, so you can see the print
Also I might add a camera to the inside later
Keep in mind to keep the camera cool. CCD/CMOS etc doesn't like heat.
by
Ohmarinus
-
General
Quotemardy3d
Thank you for your help! I just fixed it.
Good that you pointed me towards potential wiring issues! The connection of the end stop came loose and constantly indicated that it was hit. Hence, the RAMPS firmware did not allow motion in the negative y direction.
After reconnecting the pin, the end stop behaved correctly and everything moves as it should!
Hence, the problem is solved!
by
Ohmarinus
-
General
Moving this to Delta as it might be a specific issue.
by
Ohmarinus
-
Delta Machines
QuoteUsman1222
Are these connections correct?
What type of bed is it? It's really impossible to say without any reference.
I also see two empty pads where I have LED's but I also know these are not needed.
by
Ohmarinus
-
Reprappers
I had this happen once and it turned out to be a broken connector on the end of the cable. I cut off the connector and added new crimp connections and a plastic connector and then it worked fine. From what I see it still sounds like this is a wiring issue.
by
Ohmarinus
-
General
Hi, I noticed my Delta having surface artifacts. This happened after I uploaded a new Marlin to it (2.0.5.4) half a year ago.
What could it be and how can I troubleshoot this? The prints come out fine but these artifacts appear on all vertical walls all around. There is no play but I do feel as if the machine also makes more of a grindy noise on some moves. Can it be an issue of stepper motor/dr
by
Ohmarinus
-
Delta Machines
12v 5a is fine for running the motion system but for hotend and heated bed you definitely need more juice.
You could go ahead and just test the stepper motors and motion system with hotend and heated bed turned off.
I run a pen plotter with three stepper drivers and LCD on a 2a 12v psu.
by
Ohmarinus
-
Delta Machines
You could also raise the steps/mm of the extruder motor
by
Ohmarinus
-
Printing
I'm curious how the slides are holding up after a few months. Any updates on this Joost?
by
Ohmarinus
-
Extruded Aluminum Frames
QuoteDust
Have you seen my MK2 power supply case? Its the prusa one but in scad so you can edit it to fit your supply (presuming its a rectangle)
Yes that filament runout sensor works on any 5v controller.
The standard mk3s extruder works well...
Check the length of that runour sensor cable. A lot of these clones parts are being supplied with 160mm cables, but needs longer in real mk3s's.
by
Ohmarinus
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Quotethehankinator
You will need PlatformIO unless you are using an Arduino. Instructions for using the Arduino IDE are here
Arduino IDE is not going to be very useful nowadays. PlatformIO is superior in every aspect.
by
Ohmarinus
-
Delta Machines
Quotemahesh joshi
I hv problem with heater and thermistor,I hv Bowden v6 hot end.on connecting pronterface noheating up ofextruder heater,error message:heating failed,system stopped,heater ID_0,pls solve my problem.all other devices work ok.all s motor and fan motor of extruded also work ok. l hv not connected endstop and bed heater.pls reply
Hi Mahesh, does pronterface display a temperature val
by
Ohmarinus
-
Reprappers
Quoteheavy9
how can I flash the code into the RAMPS board?
It is not in .ino format
Any help?
You need to flash the entire project onto the Ramps board, you cannot flash with a single file.
Also, I suggest using VScode, there's a detailed explanation on the Marlin website:
by
Ohmarinus
-
Delta Machines
Steps per unit also seem to have pretty weird numbers between x and y.
What kind of machine is it. Would you have images of the wiring and maybe the config files?
by
Ohmarinus
-
RAMPS Electronics
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Your vapor smoothing looks like it's softening the bulk of the print. 5 minutes seems like a long time.
In the rare event that I vapor smooth prints, I heat the acetone to about 100C in a big pot with a cover, then lower the print into the vapor for a few seconds- just long enough for the vapor to condense on the print surface, never more than 5 seconds, then pull it b
by
Ohmarinus
-
Printing