Show all posts by user
Re: Lijst met nederlandse verkopers plastic - 11 years ago
Leuk, ik heb Formfutura op marktplaats gevonden, ik heb ze gemaild over hun ABS, omdat ik wat ik nu heb gekocht bij een ander echt superkut vind. De machine loopt er vaak mee vast en ben echt niet te spreken over de kwaliteit. Iemand die al ABS van Formfutura heeft? - Marinus Replace Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ik koop de laatste rollen tegenwoordig biby Ohmarinus - Dutch User Group - Archive
Re: Goede hotend gezocht - 11 years ago
Aha, ik ben nu van kleur ABS gewisseld, ik had zwart ABS van een Nederlandse verkoper. Vreselijk spul, heeft mijn extruder gemold omdat er ineens een stuk op de rol zat dat dikker was dan 3,5mm!!!!! What de hel! Dus nu is er een stukje van mijn guide op de extruder afgebroken, en daarna is het vastgelopen in de extruder en hotend. Hierdoor is ook een print van een paar uur compleet vertieft. Ikby Ohmarinus - Dutch User Group - Archive
Re: how to add a fan to sanguinololu? - 11 years ago
Hi guys, this is exactly what I did, I just put it in between one of the stepper-connections. The fan runs fine and continuous, halfway into a print, I wonder how it will come out in the end I guess this is safe to do on a Sanguino? NelsonRap Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Fan just needs 2 pins and can plug into any of the > spare 2 pin headers on theby Ohmarinus - Sanguino(lolu)
Re: Bad ABS Filament - 11 years ago
OKay, I was almost ready to beat up the machine, haha, the black crap filament jammed again. Now I switched to the Yellow ABS variant, same reseller, I asked if he ever had people complain about the black version, 'never' he replied... The yellow abs prints very neat, very clean, nice sharp lines, no fuzzy weird lumps, no pops during printing.. I have been trying to get my machine working rigby Ohmarinus - Printing
Re: Has anyone built a Prusa I3 ? - 11 years ago
I don't know how things compare to for example my Air 2, but I bought the kit for around 550 euros here in Holland. It had everything, from the printed parts to pre-assembled a Sanguino 1.3a, 4 stepper drivers, all rods, stepper motors, PCB Heatbed MKII, hotend, bearings. Everything. So although this was all inclusive, the wiring sucked, so I had to invest in new wiring, a lot of small nuts andby Ohmarinus - General
Re: Choosing Thermistor based on table - Marlin - 11 years ago
I have now lowered my printing temp to 240ºC and it still seems to work pretty well. There are some mechanical factors now also influencing how I print, I need a new extruder, yesterday my filament had a piece of more than 3.5mm wide instead of the usual 3mm. The thick filament broke my guide of the extruder! Can you imagine!? Really pissed at the guy who sold me the filament. And I discoveredby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: object onder het bed - 11 years ago
Open het gewoon in Repetier, dan zie je hem in de 3D box staan zoals het geprint wordt, en dan zie je ook meteen de onderkant als je wil en kan je ze Z corrigeren.by Ohmarinus - Dutch User Group - Archive
Re: Goede hotend gezocht - 11 years ago
Hi John, bedankt voor je uitleg. Inmiddels heb ik een hotend gekocht, het is deze geworden: Helaas was mijn extruder niet helemaal bijpassend, dus ik moet nog een nieuwe printen. Toen ik die vanmiddag aan het printen was crashte mijn repetier (gvd...) na anderhalf uur printen. Vooralsnog een fijne hotend, maaaaar met deze hotend wordt mijn extruder wel extra warm en alles wat erboven zit, dusby Ohmarinus - Dutch User Group - Archive
Re: Bad ABS Filament - 11 years ago
I also have some bad filament, popping all the time, dutch reseller. Are we allowed to call names? Update: Just had my printer jam after more than 1,5hours of printing, it was almost done and doing a critical part when the extruder got jammer with a piece of black ABS that was more than 3,5mm wide... It even broke-off a piece of the guide on my extruder. Luckily it didn't go into my hotend. I aby Ohmarinus - Printing
Re: Layer smash revisited... - 11 years ago
Hi, I have the same problem, will be following this thread. Printing on 0.25 with a 0.4 nozzle, it smashes some inbetween layers, but not all. I will open a new topic, with a video and pictures because there is more going wrong with my printer.by Ohmarinus - Printing
Re: Y-axis shifted a teeth on the belt maybe? - 11 years ago
Hi James, thanks for your reply, I have a very keen eye for detail, the Y-belt is always neatly in the middle of the bearing when it moves from front all the way back and vice versa. I have re-designed my print area, the bed is much lighter now (but sadly also bends slightly more) and runs smoother than ever. I have since chosen to print my work more slowly and haven't had much stepping ever sincby Ohmarinus - Printing
Re: Choosing Thermistor based on table - Marlin - 11 years ago
Hi, with these values I still needed to put the values very high... So I reverted to using #6 and having to input the printing temp as 250ºC now. I have discovered that 41*OVERSAMPLER (or 41*16=656) is the value that should be around 220ºC for my thermistor. Because thats the temperature where the ABS has a nice melting temperature. So I should get myself a table that has that value around 220/2by Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Choosing Thermistor based on table - Marlin - 11 years ago
It's not gonna work. I tried every single way of applying it and In repetier it says that the nozzle is at 220 degrees, but the hotend won't do anything. I can barely get the filament flowing through at 260ºC. I don't know why. Now experimenting with #6 // 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup) With Thermo #1 I can print on 260ºC Withby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Choosing Thermistor based on table - Marlin - 11 years ago
When I put in those values the hotend temp just displays a static 27ºc Doesn't go up when heating up? I added *OVERSAMPLENR from the other Marlin codes, but now at 220ºc and it doesn't want to work. The filament is nowhere near melting point. Heres the latest code, using your 3950 beta: #if (THERMISTORHEATER_0 == 11) || (THERMISTORHEATER_1 == 11) || (THERMISTORHEATER_2 == 11) || (THERMISTORBby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Choosing Thermistor based on table - Marlin - 11 years ago
I will re-calculate, the way I did it now, my temp is reading -22.... Damnby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Choosing Thermistor based on table - Marlin - 11 years ago
Ok, sounds worth a try. So the sense resistor (RP) would be 4700 in this case? (4.7K Ohm) and: t0 = 20 / r0 = 124922 t1 = 120 / r1 = 36736 t2 = 220 / r2 = 3692 So these values are from the temperature vs resistance table. I just chose to go from 20 to 220 with intervals of a 100. Testing it now! Update: By using ErikZalm's calculator I got this: // Thermistor lookup table for RepRap Temby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Choosing Thermistor based on table - Marlin - 11 years ago
I am not going to be able to do this.. I will just turn it on an register the temperature at which the hotend has a good flow when I hand-feed it. My plan to make my own table for Marlin was ambitious and good but my knowledge and understanding is too limiting at this time. Thanks for your insights. When I get home I will try to find more info but I couldn't already find any info about hoe to mby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Choosing Thermistor based on table - Marlin - 11 years ago
So, the oversampler number in the Marlin table is 16, can I then say: Ohms at given temp divided by 16 is the value for that temperature in the table? Sorry I was sleepy, ofcourse I understand that the thermistor runs on 5v I have contacted the reseller but he didnt have a clue for how to apply the table.. - Marinusby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Choosing Thermistor based on table - Marlin - 11 years ago
I am even more confused, because with my older hotend I have measured the voltage to be around 11.2V Is this because my new hotend has two resistors? Am I correct? Is that why there is two holes on both sides of the alu block to evenly warm up the hotend? And is this why there is a naked crimped wire sticking out of the hotend on the front? Hmm, things start to make sense, thanks! I will re-reaby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Choosing Thermistor based on table - Marlin - 11 years ago
Hi NoobMan, thanks! Nope, I don't have the equipment, but the tables are also good since they are measured by the reseller. I re-read your reply about three times, but I am totally getting lost in the math. For things like mechanics, distances, sizes, volumes etc I am very good, but when it comes to 'low side' 'lullup' V*Rt ?? adc comparators I am completely losing track of what you are saying.by Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Y-axis shifted a teeth on the belt maybe? - 11 years ago
Ha, yes thats also what I tried.. Maybe it's my computer? Haha, we are human after all.. We create computers, we write code, we make the machines, we make mistakes, the machines make mistakes. I have just totally pimped my Air again, lighter printbed, lower printbed, higher hotend, new hotend, re-soldered some stuff, enhanced mechanics, next thing on the machine will be isolating the space underby Ohmarinus - Printing
Choosing Thermistor based on table - Marlin - 11 years ago
Hi guys, bought a new hotend, but I'm afraid to turn it on because I don't know which Thermistor I have! I have a table with Ohm values, but I have NO idea how to convert or compare this to anything that is in the Marlin firmware in the thermistor table. Here is the information about the ohms at which temperatures: Can anyone give me the golden clue? Btw, found this: But I have no idea whby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Y-axis shifted a teeth on the belt maybe? - 11 years ago
Aaaaaaand it happens again. Really, is there anyone who has an idea what might be happening? I have already tried everything I could discover on this subject. It now happened once the other direction.. It's not the stepper driver overheating It's not the belt skipping It's not the frequency, I have set 15Hz in Marlin AND 15Hz in Slic3r I am currently trying to make the printbed lighter, but Iby Ohmarinus - Printing
Re: Temperature drop from 208 to 195 - 11 years ago
And again... echo: cold extrusion prevented I'm going to be really anxious when my new hotend arrives! Update: Ordered this one, and will be here around thursday: Also ordered two new thermistors that are pre-checked and I have their heating tables, so I can at least rule some problems out if they also occur with the new hotend and thermistors.by Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Temperature drop from 208 to 195 - 11 years ago
For now I have discovered that the thermistor is seriously giving out too low readings, this can also be due to the construction of the hotend, so I blame that, not just because it's easy to blame the hotend, but also just because the designer of the hotend has no sense of detail. When I print ABS at 195 *in pronterface* the real temperature is higher because I can print just fine from 185 to 20by Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Raised corners problem [help] - 11 years ago
Hi, I also get raised corners, but just on one side. It is due to the nozzle of the hotend not extruding exactly downward, but at a slight angle. Probably not your problem though. Just as a note for others maybe searching for a raised corner problem, so they can also check if their nozzle is aiming perfectly downward. Time for me to order a new Hotend.. Blarghs.by Ohmarinus - Printing
Re: At wit's end. Terrible part quality - 11 years ago
Hi, I have been printing on 0.4 layer height and that even looks better. I just started calibrating the mechanics today.. So yes, maybe still some to calibrate! Can it also maybe be that your firmware thinks the hotend is colder than it is in reality? I print at 200º celsius with ABS, and works really fine. My thermistor is probably a bit weird in giving out readings because I get results most pby Ohmarinus - Printing
Re: Y-axis shifted a teeth on the belt maybe? - 11 years ago
Ah yes, did that multiple times I'm afraid to go higher without any way of cooling it to prevent the stepper taking a pause every few seconds. But I still don't know if I can attach a continously running fan to the 12v pins that are on the sanguino board in between the stepper-connections ;D Fl0yd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I would try to vary you vby Ohmarinus - Printing
Re: Y-axis shifted a teeth on the belt maybe? - 11 years ago
Okay, set the printing speed slower, but now it still happened with a new print... Only on the third layer already! Damn. I have set the XY_FREQUENCY_LIMIT 15 Anyone has an idea how to fix this?by Ohmarinus - Printing
Re: Y-axis shifted a teeth on the belt maybe? - 11 years ago
Okay, I really think it's the vibration problem. I have found a few sources: Same problem: Frequency limit (configurable in Slic3r and in Marlin, see the below): In the source code for Marlin I have found in Configuration_adv.h: // Frequency limit // See nophead's blog for more info // Not working O #define XY_FREQUENCY_LIMIT 15 The setting was commented out, so I have commented it andby Ohmarinus - Printing