Show all posts by user
Re: Y-axis shifted a teeth on the belt maybe? - 11 years ago
I think this might be the problem: [*] From short infill moves that result in resonance of the machine. This is similar to accelerating too hard. How can I fix this?by Ohmarinus - Printing
Re: Y-axis shifted a teeth on the belt maybe? - 11 years ago
It is still going wrong, I would really like to know if I can just hook up my 12v 0.08a fan to the 12v and gnd pins in between my stepper-motor connection on the sanguino. I don't know, it doesn't happen with all my prints. But with some it does. I have even re-calibrated my stepper voltage settings.by Ohmarinus - Printing
Re: Temperature drop from 208 to 195 - 11 years ago
OKay I will keep it in mind, I am looking for another hotend anyway, this one sucks and I have seen reasonably priced ones on Ebay, are there any not so crazily expensive ones you can advise me? I live in the Netherlands so shipping cost also play a role, I have found these few to look very affordable to me: Good looks: Very cheap and mainland for me: This one looks very well developed:by Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Y-axis shifted a teeth on the belt maybe? - 11 years ago
Okay, I have here a 12v small ventilator motor from a CPU cooler, where can I attach it? And Yes, I did try a higher printing speed for this print, so maybe I should lower it a bit again. I upped every speed setting with 20%, so I will now set it back to 10% extra speed. I have extensively calibrated my stepper drivers, but you may be right about this, it is something I have not checked before.by Ohmarinus - Printing
Y-axis shifted a teeth on the belt maybe? - 11 years ago
Hi guys, how tight should a belt be tightened? Is there a rule for? Maybe a music note that I can identify? Story: So I'm finally printing my real first object to use with the machine (spool holder for Reprap Air 2 XL), and all goes well, but suddenly I see that the Y-axis has shifted! Oh my god, how did that happen!@? Here is a movie of the printing, and added are three pictures of the movedby Ohmarinus - Printing
Re: Temperature drop from 208 to 195 - 11 years ago
I am now conducting some printbed material research. I have made a printbed design and lasercutted it this afternoon. 2 different translucent acrylic ones, a white one (PetG) and a red acrylic one. Trying the first one now I think the mirror loses it's heat quicker so I wonder what happend to the acrylic printbed, the heatbed seems to heat up quicker with the acrylic one. All are 3mm thick, Iby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Temperature drop from 208 to 195 - 11 years ago
Alright I will look into the thermistor part, thought I dont know if a thermocouple cost a lot of money, considering I'd rather spend money on other parts. I am still having difficulties with the heatbed though. It heats up slowly even though I have now placed very thick wire on the whole route from PSU to the relay to the heatbed. It's what the seller told me to do, but still, thicker wire is nby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Temperature drop from 208 to 195 - 11 years ago
Ok, they are 100k thermistors, I have chosen the correct ones in the firmware, don't worry The swings aren't wild/quick btw, it's just constant, and then suddenly it drops without stopping the drop it very slow and very constant. Here a video of that one magical moment when the machine worked for once: Update: Re-set the original Marlin PID settings, re-wired the heatbed, and the PSU wires,by Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Confirming my construction, did I do this right? - 11 years ago
As promised, some video of the printer printing on that one faithful day when everything worked for one day this millenium See it here:by Ohmarinus - General
Re: Temperature drop from 208 to 195 - 11 years ago
When I took that picture, I had turned down the heatbed to 80 degrees celsius, but I want it to be 110 degrees! No temp drops indeed, but when I put the bed temp to 85 the hotend starts having problems staying hot. I don't know why... The PSU delivers enough amps for both easily. It's this PSU: Would the thin wires I use for the heatbed be too thin maybe? Also, part of my frame broke when Iby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Goede hotend gezocht - 11 years ago
Zoals de titel al aangeeft, ik heb een krap budget en ben op zoek naar toch een leuke hotend. Ik heb nu die van printedparts.nl maar die vind ik erg tegenvallen, ik heb me er inmiddels wat in verdiept en sta op het punt om er óf een zelf te maken, óf om twee verschillende modelletjes gewoon te kopen zodat ik er twee kan testen en ook nog een reserve heb als er iets stuk gaat. Groeten uit Haarlemby Ohmarinus - Dutch User Group - Archive
Re: Confirming my construction, did I do this right? - 11 years ago
I know I promised 'tomorrow I upload a vid' well, the next day has been nothing but problems. The hotend didn't get to printing temperature, the hotbed doesn't function as it should etcetera. I keep running into trouble. I have opened a topic in the electronics forum to see if anyone there has any idea what might be wrong. It can be found here: Hope the link works. I am as-we-speak measuringby Ohmarinus - General
Re: Temperature drop from 208 to 195 - 11 years ago
Hi, I have these values in there: // PID settings: // Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang. // #define PIDTEMP #define BANG_MAX 256 // limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 256=full current #define PID_MAX 256 // limits current to nozzle while PID is active (see PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE below); 256=full current #ifdef PIDTEMP //#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debuby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Temperature drop from 208 to 195 - 11 years ago
Okay, I will test Bang-bang first, I have commented the line that creates PID settings, so I guess it's bang-bang from here on up. The temperature seems to go up quicker on the hotend, with about 1.2 degrees celsius each time the monitoring checks it. The heatbed is now set for 80 degrees still, that one still takes long to heat up, and heats up much slower too, but it's a bigger thing, but I hby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Temperature drop from 208 to 195 - 11 years ago
I have been trying autotune PID three more times: P - 76.38 I - 3.50 D - 416.74 P - 55.12 I - 2.26 D - 335.92 P - 224.02 I - 29.47 D - 425.75 Very inconsistent values. Is this normal? Set with: M303 S215 Last time printing, the hotend temp dropped from 210 to below 180. Here is a picture of the hotend, I hope you can see this: I have taken out the metal washer and putby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Temperature drop from 208 to 195 - 11 years ago
Hi, I'm using this variant: It has a 6.8 Ohm resistor and a 100k Thermistor. I have wrapped the resistor with alufoil, removed the metal ring and added a wooden plate between the aluminum block and the PTFE. Also removed some of the black isolation gunk. Heatbed doesn't reach 110 degrees celsius also by the way. The heatbed is connected by using a relay that comes in between the heatbed on/oby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Temperature drop from 208 to 195 - 11 years ago
Hi yes, it worked before, but my hotend gives very inconsistent results. I have replaced the resistor and fitted it with aluminum foil also. The thermistor is in the right spot. Worked like a charm yesterday, only to get filament jams again today.. I pulled the plug, too much setbacks for more than a month. I'm done with this machine not working properly. lazzymonk Wrote: ------------------by Ohmarinus - Controllers
Temperature drop from 208 to 195 - 11 years ago
Hi guys, i have some problems with my hotend. Already replaced the resistor, but still it doesn't want to heat up properly. Sometimes I am pre-heating it for a print and when it almost hits 210 celsius, it suddenly drops fro 208 degrees celsius to 195.4 degrees celsius. This happens a LOT. I am running: - Sanguino 1.3a - Marlin v.1 Also did the M303 check and input the Kp Ki and Kd codes intoby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Re: Confirming my construction, did I do this right? - 11 years ago
Been working really hard on the machine. Tomorrow I will upload a vid! Thanks uGen!by Ohmarinus - General
Re: Ramps 1.4 - Marlin - X & Y start jittering during print - 11 years ago
I was wrong, this is not overheating stepper.by Ohmarinus - General
Re: Ramps 1.4 - Marlin - X & Y start jittering during print - 11 years ago
Sorry i cant watch the movie here but is there a possibility that the stepper drivers overheat? When that happens they shut down really short to cool and then restart and continue. This might cause jittering.by Ohmarinus - General
Re: Reprapers in Amsterdam regio - 11 years ago
Om eerlijk te zijn heb ik nogal spijt van de aankoop van mijn kit. De geprinte parts zijn veelal krom, de bijgeleverde moertjes en boutjes waren bij lange na niet genoeg en heb moeten bijbestellen bij conrad.nl er was maar een hele kleine portie bekabeling bijgeleverd en heb dat zelfs twee keer moeten bijbestellen, de heatbed moest ik zelf nog een MDF bodemplaat voor zagen en boren, de geprinte pby Ohmarinus - Dutch User Group - Archive
Re: Confirming my construction, did I do this right? - 11 years ago
Okay I did the autotune for now, I will stick with my current PSU, all I need to know whether I have to set my power supply type in Marlin to 1 or 2 with my current PSU. I guess it should also be 1, so I will try that. The results of the autotune (shortened it a bit): Results of the autotune: Connecting... Sprinter 1.3.22T / 20.08.2012 start Printer is now online. SD Start SD init fail Soft Pby Ohmarinus - General
Re: Confirming my construction, did I do this right? - 11 years ago
Okay, thanks for your reply, I have found my old computer in a closet and it has a nice ATX power supply. Would it be hard to convert my Sanguino to have another connector so I can use my ATX power supply? Right now it uses this one: I don't know why, but it feels better to use an ATX PSU. Also because in the Marlin config I -HAVE- to choose either: // 1 = ATX // 2 = X-Box 360 203Watts (the bby Ohmarinus - General
Re: Confirming my construction, did I do this right? - 11 years ago
Since I can't print with this shitty hotend anyway I will open it up and try to see if I can find something wrong with it. Also, the resistor is very loose inside the aluminium block, I will add a piece of aluminium foil around the resistor to make is a tighter fit if it is possible and I will also try to fabricate an insulation 'housing' around the hotend that first of all protects my extruderby Ohmarinus - General
Re: Confirming my construction, did I do this right? - 11 years ago
Thing is that I bought a complete kit, so refund will not work. What I can do is ask him to send a new hot end. I will also just open up my hotend to see if I can find out if there is something wrong on the inside, or is a hotend very special?.. Tomorrow I have planned to do firmware again, for I am almost sure the problem cannot be in the hardware for the slow heating. It takes half an hour toby Ohmarinus - General
Re: Confirming my construction, did I do this right? - 11 years ago
1.6 amps Damn... My bad. You see, this really is the first time I'm working with things like this. However I did do this a lot as a kid, but I forgot almost everything. But I still kept my multimeter and soldering iron and all my other equipment, for which I am very lucky since I need it all here. 10.5 V * 1.6 A = 16,8 W? (out of my head) uGen Wrote: --------------------------------------by Ohmarinus - General
Re: Confirming my construction, did I do this right? - 11 years ago
I set up my Multimeter to measure on the left and right side of the resistor.. Did my multimeter short it out? I connected it parallel I guess. Should it be in serial? Hey good you asked, it is 1.6 amps! Damn.. How could I be so wrong... uGen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That is strange. With 7.1 - 7.2 Ohms there is just > no way to get 17 Amps aby Ohmarinus - General
Re: Confirming my construction, did I do this right? - 11 years ago
The resistance on the resistor is 7.1 or 7.2 Ohms. To be honest I don't know what to do anymore. I will ask the seller for a new hotend, this is getting out of hand. I also have a backup resistor btw, that measures: 7.2 Ohms. uGen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Wait a minute, there is no way that the hot end is > drawing 17 amps unless it is shortedby Ohmarinus - General
Re: Confirming my construction, did I do this right? - 11 years ago
Did you also see the image? Even when the hotend is well up to temperature, the ABS just gets lodged in the tube before the nozzle. I will measure again My readings: 10.5 volts 17/18 amps After measuring again I get 11 volts, it keeps going up and down. So I probably just didn't ruin my multimeter it's 17 amps instead of 1.79 I would say 10.5 V * 17 A = 178,5 W Considering the fact thby Ohmarinus - General