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Quoteto3dornottobe
Did you read the rest of my post? There are some viable facts in that post that are not a mere opinion.
Yes of course I've read them, all of them - this is where an entirely different perspective shows up. I do agree that a traditional servo loop will not work with a decoupled encoder, and that servo loops are not needed for everything. That's fine, I'm not proposing a tradi
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Paul Wanamaker
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General
Quoteto3dornottobe
In my opinion it's complete bullshit to add an encoder to the filament.
You are of course entitled to your opinion. That opinion allows for no innovation whatsoever in that area. Fine, pursue your own course!
However if someone wants to use a small DC motor they will need a closed loop.
There is no reason that a closed loop could not be done with the encoder at the hot
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Paul Wanamaker
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General
See #26 on the Shifted Layers / Offset Layers / Missed Steps page.
There is a link on the right side to the article.
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Paul Wanamaker
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Printing
Koko76,
Thank you for your advice.
I'm sure you are right - it will be a challenge.
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Paul Wanamaker
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General
QuoteKoko76
So what do you intend to do with the sensed position of the filament with this wheel? Is your intention to modulate the XY feed to keep up with the extruder? Or are you intending to modify the feed at the other end of the Bowden based on data from this encoder? Both of those have drawbacks, some significant.
The intention is to have the input into the hot end match what is commanded
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Paul Wanamaker
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General
Sure it would benefit bowden setups, and all others too. They all have the same problems to a greater or lesser extent as I noted above. Measuring the input filament length eliminates one huge variable in the equation (regardless of motor or extruder type).
Filament quality is a separate topic!
Your design for the sensor interface is similar to what I had in mind.
Use a Dremel to cut a slit
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Paul Wanamaker
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General
I think this is a bug in the latest version, discussed here.
And some additional recommendations here.
Hope that helps
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Paul Wanamaker
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Slic3r
Mr T,
It sounds like you have a good test case.
You should post it here on Github
This link gives the information you need to include in your bug report.
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Paul Wanamaker
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Slic3r
QuoteChris's settings
contact z 0
pattern honeycomb
pattern spacing 2,5 mm
pattern angle 0 deg
interface layers 5
interface pattern spacing 2
I think the interface pattern spacing is too wide.
I sometimes use:
Contact Distance .07mm
Pattern: Rectilinear or Rectilinear Grid
Pattern Spacing: 4.5mm (the support material lines are this much apart)
Interface Layers: 2
Interface pattern spacing: .6
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Paul Wanamaker
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Slic3r
Realthor,
I've been thinking about what you want to achieve - in a reductionist sense, really just 2 things:
- Light hot end assembly
- Accurate extrusion
The referenced design used three components:
- a DC motor
- an encoder
- a controller with a servo loop.
Of the three components, the function of the encoder (right at the output end) and the controller must be as-is, the extruder motor could
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Paul Wanamaker
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General
In Cura click the Plugins tab.
You may have enabled the Tweak at height plugin.
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Paul Wanamaker
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Reprappers
Quoterealthor
How would you account for plastic (3D printed) parts screwed into the wood?
I've seen a lot of CoreXY printers that use plastic brackets of various kinds. I don't think there is much expansion/contraction happening with those under normal working temperatures, if that's what you're referring to.
BTW, the MDO plywood I used was 3/4", joined with biscuits and urethane glue (handle
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Paul Wanamaker
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General
Kostolapy,
I made a page in the Wiki for Slic3r tutorials that might be helpful: , and I can try to answer a few of your questions:
The first thing you need to do is make sure your bed is level, and then improve your first layer height calibration. Having that consistent will make the biggest difference. Print a first layer, and measure the thickness - it should match what you set in Slic3r.
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Paul Wanamaker
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Slic3r
I did some research into this before building my printer and found the following that talks about plywood's thermal expansion:
QuotePerformancePanels.com
Plywood and wood expand upon heating, as do practically all known solids. The thermal expansion of wood, however, is quite small and requires exacting techniques for its measurement. The effect of temperature on plywood dimensions is related
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Paul Wanamaker
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General
QuoteRealthor
But could we have a section in the reprap wiki or on instructables or even on github -if suitable- where these solutions could have a home so we all could pick one and order the parts and replicate it and report back and the process of improvement would go on?
The answer is a qualified "Yes". It's just up to whoever develops the solution to document it, and make a page.
To put a
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Paul Wanamaker
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General
He appears to be a pure scammer.
He has many listings like this, apparently trying to get people to mistakenly buy at horrendous prices, with no refunds:
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Paul Wanamaker
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General
the_digital_dentist,
Thank you for lending your expertise! I learned something new about Slic3r.
Your photos are really good.
I will look into getting one of those lenses for my phone as well. It's important to be able to see what's really happening.
Edit: I ordered one for $8.00 with 2 day shipping from Amazon for my iPhone 6 plus... Amazing. It has an adjustable-angle light built in. I'll
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Paul Wanamaker
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Printing
Make sure to look at it in layer view, layer by layer.
Note that Sketchup is noted for making terrible objects for 3d printing.
After you get it the way you want in Slicer, then use the Export STL button on the right (I can't recall exactly what it's called) then you will have a version that has the fixes that slic3r has done, positioned as you want it.
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Paul Wanamaker
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Slic3r
Hi vapark212
This link will help you with the information you need to provide to help diagnose this, and includes information how to link files and photos. It's a common issue, people don't know what info to provide, so what the heck... I made a page for it.
The shifted layers issue is common, so I made this page.
For Tutorials and Troubleshooting, just click the Wiki button at the very top,
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Paul Wanamaker
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Reprappers
Quotepaperfrom
- This is the step/unit of my i3: X100.00 Y100.00 Z4000.00 E782.20.
So that's 120 steps per layer change, so that should be enough if the Z axis is moving correctly.
If possible, can you post a link to a gcode file, sliced at .03mm, using Slic3r, with verbose gcode turned on? (with Expert option turned on, Print settings, output options, verbose gcode). I'd like to run this thr
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Paul Wanamaker
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Printing
Ugh, not good.
I would recommend always slicing in the stand-alone slicer, then just print it with Repetier or Pronterface. Even better, use one of those to command it to print from SD. Then you have the latest/known version slicing engine.
Make sure your thermistor connections are good, and that the correct thermistor type is in firmware if it changed, and re-do the PID calibration.
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Paul Wanamaker
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Printing
paperfrom,
Those are very interesting results. I'm glad you were able to get the magnified photos. It would be interesting to see .2mm layers for comparison.
I have a couple of questions:
What is the X/Y resolution of your printer (steps per mm).
What is the Z steps per mm?
A couple of thoughts:
1) I wonder if the shorter height of that cube indicates missed steps in the Z direction.
2) The
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Paul Wanamaker
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Printing
Richard Horne (Richrap) had this same issue.
See here
I wonder if there is a mechanical limit for minimum layer heigh - perhaps some interaction between the cooling super thin extrude and the nozzle dragging over it, or difficulty getting consistent flow when the gap is so narrow and back-pressure is higher.
It would be interesting to view it at a microscopic level.
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Paul Wanamaker
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Printing
I was reading the settings you used.
Just a note about the layer height - the rule of thumb is for layer height < 80% of nozzle diameter. This is for proper layer adhesion.
Extrusion width is recommended to be between 1.04 and 1.7x nozzle diameter.
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Paul Wanamaker
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Printing
Hi David,
We can only guess what's causing this with the limited info provided (we don't know anything about your printer). Perhaps something is binding. If you look inside the object, is it shifted towards the outside also?
Here's some general info that will help to diagnose this issue
There are a lot of things that could cause this. I've noted a few of them here: Shifted Layers / Offset L
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Paul Wanamaker
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Printing
Hi Gesti,
I hope your ambitious project works out!
I only want to encourage you to be open minded and learn from others successes and failures.
So my #1 tip would be to read a lot more here before you start planning. Like this thread and many others.
There are some big technical issues when you scale a printer larger. For instance, some have started builds without understanding how much their
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Paul Wanamaker
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I'm going to take this from a different perspective.
I'm paying attention to the scalloped look in the lower portion.
I'm not convinced this is a model problem for several reasons:
- The same model printed fine before in a different slicer.
- The model prints differently with a different number of parts printed at once.
- Looking at the segments individually, they are OK.
So I looked at the
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Paul Wanamaker
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Printing
Quotesungod3k
which visualizer debugger are you using btw?
It's part of a suite I'm writing that includes a post-processor for:
- Pressure compensation
- First segment acceleration (works with pressure compensation)
- Coast while retracting
- Angular hops
- etc...
It has a g-code visualizer that colors the segments according to mm3/second, and graphs the mm3/sec changes. Example here. I neede
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Paul Wanamaker
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General
Well I compared the two in my debugger/visualizer.
Its apparent they were sliced very differently.
The Repeteir gcode used much higher extrusion rates, and higher densities - and could have been overheating as a result. It looks a mess.
Since the stand-alone Cura is better (and probably a newer version) that sounds like a better way to go.
If you are looking for Slic3r tutorials, there's
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Paul Wanamaker
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General
Yes, what you are seeing could be caused by interference.
Here is a thread on shielding your cables.
It's unknown what your print speed, layer height, extrusion width are.
It looks like the pulsing is fairly rapid. I suspect the filament is slipping.
You should do a PID calibration too since you have a new extruder.
Here is the basic guide for calibrating your extruder.
Here are some tuto
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Paul Wanamaker
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Printing