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Hey,
what i would do is attach a depth gauge to the extruder carriage
One like this:
and then the say tell your printer to go to Z 5mm or something and mark down whether it is + or - of that value.
From there you can alter the screws until it says 5mm or whatever.
Hope this helps,
Alex
by
ayouden
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General
FIXED!
I had my dump position still enabled!
by
ayouden
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General
Hey,
I recently had to update my PC as it had a Hard-drive failure!
However, since this when ever I press Emergency stop on the Repetier host panel, my X motor doesn't stop and flies way past the maximum x spot and crashes into the frame!
Why is this?!
Thanks, Alex
by
ayouden
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General
Hey,
I did a print today and my hot-end temp is all wobbly (See Attachment)
What is wrong and how do I fix this?
Thanks
by
ayouden
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Printing
Hey,
I hope I am posting this is the right section!
I am looking to upgrade my wade extruder to a direct drive one, however I am unsure what the best gear is to get.
MK7 seems to be a popular one around these forums and appears often in posts.
Thanks, Alex
by
ayouden
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General
Hey,
Thanks for the idea of using a mains powered heat mats with relays.
However, I cannot seem to find any mats!
Do you have an example?
Thanks, Alex
(And If I were to go down the 4x heat beds I would use a relay anyway to be on the safe side!)
by
ayouden
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General
Hey,
I currently have an experimental 3D Printer with a XY area of 400x400mm.
However, with it being un-heated I cannot use ABS.
For a project I need the print bed to be heated so I can use ABS.
For the size of the bed, I could use 4x 200x200mm RepRap MK2 heat beds.
Given if I use a large enough PSU, 30A+ and probably 24V would it be possible to run all 4x Heat beds in series or parallel to
by
ayouden
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General
Hey,
I am wanting to add a normal push button to a 3D printer and for it to perform 1 single G-Code command.
However, from what I can find I cannot see any ways of doing this.
Does anyone know how to do this?
As for wiring I think I could use 1 of the 3 end-stop slots I am not currently using (or indeed servo pins).
Thanks, Alex
by
ayouden
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General
Hey,
Is it possible to have a normal push button or similar, that once pressed would pause printing? (for filament change etc...)
I have a Ramps 1.4 board and I think there are a few free pins i can use.
But is it possible?
Thanks
by
ayouden
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General
Hey,
My old board was a Sanguino, but I later upgraded to Ramps.
I had a load of issues with my Sanguino on my Mac and nothing seemed to work. The only way I overcame this was to install windows on my Mac and use Arduino on there.
you can download apps such as VirtualBox and VMWare.
I know this doesn't answer your question, but this is what I had to do to get it to work.
Thanks
by
ayouden
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General
The reason why my J-Head broke was that the aluminium nozzle got worn and sprang a filament leak!
I think this was down to the thread on the plastic part and aluminium part not being as flush as usual. (expanded due to heat)
I tried everything to fix it, but no no avail. I think a hotend which has anything other than a brass nozzle should be avoided at all costs.
On a side note, the PTFE tube
by
ayouden
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General
I use both 1.75mm ABS and 1.75mm PLA. It all depends on the type of project I am printing.
I have experienced some jamming issues to begin with. However, I found out the reason for this.
It was all to do with where my filament was located.
My printer and filament are NOT in a dust free environment, so dust often settled on my filament. So when it comes to printing the dust travels down into th
by
ayouden
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General
Hey, I bought one of these Hotends for the reasons you stated. I thought it was good value.
However, It broke after about 1 week of use.
DO NOT BUY!
So I then bought a new hotend:
I have been using this hot end for months and I have to say it is incredible!
So if I was in your position, save your self £25 and buy a quality hotend right from the off and save yourself the hassle.
Thanks
by
ayouden
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General
Yes, the minimum A for the heatbed is 11A, so you will be fine
by
ayouden
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General
Hey,
So I have been looking at some 3D printers and I have noticed that some are completely enclosed and have a heat chamber.
I think for ABS this would be ideal.
However, does making a heat chamber work and does it increase print quality?
If so, what would I use to provide the heat and keep it at a set temp.
Thanks
by
ayouden
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General
500W sounds big enough, and i would have no issues getting the kits you have mentioned.
by
ayouden
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General
Yea, using an old PC PS is a popular choice for many RepRap builds. Just make sure it is rated above 20A for a decent heat up time for your heat bed.
I am North East UK sadly
Hope it all goes well nonetheless.
by
ayouden
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General
Hey,
The listing you found for the frame is NOT complete! It is missing the plastic parts.
The plastic parts would cost around £40-£50 if I was to have a guess.
With this in mind I would go for this listing. It has EVERYTHING for a complete 3D Printer.
I think it would cost the same if not cheaper than if you bought it all separately.
Hope this helps
by
ayouden
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General
ahhhh! I have wondered what these ripples were! it all makes sense now!
Thanks, And I think I will upgrade my current 3D printer to Bowden to see how good it is compared to that of my current direct set up.
Ayouden
by
ayouden
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General
Hey,
I am thinking of building a 3D printer from the ground up.
I have outlined that It should be fast and have great print quality.
However, I have seem to run into an issue.
The Replicator 2 is known for its high quality, and the Ultimaker is known for its high print speed.
The reason (I can tell) is down to the types of extrusion and where the extruder is located.
On the Replicator it is
by
ayouden
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General
I have had this issue also with PLA.
I think that the reason for this is that some debris and particles get stuck to the PLA and thus get caught in the hotend.
The way i fixed this issue was to attach some sponge to the top of my extruder to get rid of any particles which may be on the filament.
Also, before you do this, give the hotend a thorough clean if you can, to make sure that no particl
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ayouden
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Printing
Hey,
I have had a look on Google and other forums, but I am yet to find a yes/no answer to this question:
Can you use Repetier Host for CNC machines?
Thanks.
by
ayouden
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Repetier
Is there any way of checking the size??
by
ayouden
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Printing
Hey,
I have set my extruder steps/mm the best I can, yet when i print out a single walled cube to measure the thickness, i have to drop the extrusion multiplier down to about 0.4-0.5 to get the correct thickness to what is said in Slic3r.
Why do I have to drop it by so much?
Thanks.
by
ayouden
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Printing
Hey,
I have a Ramps 1.4 board and I am wanting to gain a bigger print area so I will combine 2 heatbeds together.
If I have a sufficiently high enough PSU Amps wise would, I be able to power both beds from the same OP? D8 on the ramps board?
my only concern is that i would pull to much current through the board it's self.
Thanks
by
ayouden
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General
If I slow down the solid infill, would that help?
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ayouden
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Printing
Looks like increasing the infill is the way to go, is there a good infill to use other than the default rectilinear?
Thanks
by
ayouden
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Printing
I currently use 3 perimeters, upping that to 6-10, would that solve it if i kept the infill the same?
by
ayouden
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Printing
okay, what about it's little leg poking up, that went really bad.
by
ayouden
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Printing
I tried to print the cute octo today with a 0.05mm layer height.
As you can see, the majority of the print is perfect.
However, the waving leg and the top is very bad!
does anyone have any tips on how to fix this?
I am using 1.75mm white ABS
Thanks
by
ayouden
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Printing