Show all posts by user
In 1.2.9 using 0.3 layer height, the bead is never contiguous (touching the next bead). All variations have been tried, including first-layer extrusion widths (.5 to 2mm, and 100% to 350%), first-layer height (.1 to .3), and first layer speeds.
It even does it on a skirt with multiple loops. It seems to know how wide the bead will be, and positions them just slight apart. What setting am I over
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RRuser
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Slic3r
That last setting seems appropriate; will try it.
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RRuser
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Slic3r
What is the setting for telling the extruder to retract before it starts a long (non-printing) travel? My 1.2.9 is printing well and does do retractions, but they seem to be only on short, tight segments. On longer non-printing travels (like 6 inches) you can see the filament oozing 5mm out of the nozzle before it starts printing again, because there was no retraction before these long moves.
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RRuser
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Slic3r
Is this pause/resume function working for everyone? Seems a perfect use for that button.
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RRuser
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Developers
Since the light is continuously on, with no problem, and only resets if you twist the control knob a lot, could this really be the power supply? Especially if it was a kit and everyone else's works fine.
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RRuser
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RAMPS Electronics
Well the solution was to melt the top part of the passage closed where the liner goes though, then drill a hole just big enough for the filament only. This keeps the liner down.
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RRuser
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General
Well it's old enough that I thought everyone would know of it's simple problems. I need it for XP, since the newer one would not work.
Anyway, I'm sure it's not supposed to reset after just a few fast LCD knob twists.
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RRuser
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RAMPS Electronics
An ongoing event is occurring, whereby when inputting several LCD inputs (especially move axis - extruder), that ramps resets itself. This is a new install, and using LCD only. Is there a buffer somewhere that is filling up?
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RRuser
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RAMPS Electronics
Well it turned out that the liner slipped upwards. So, I modded the extruder to accept the collet, but the liner slipped again even with the collet.
The liner seemed very tight in the extruder, and the collet sure seemed to hold it, but it still got pulled up.
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RRuser
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General
Well the liner does already go right up to the hobbed bolt, and the supplier says to not use the collet (he show pics of needing pliers to move the liner up and down). My liner slides more easily, so without the collet, I may need to roughen up the hole the liner slides into so as to keep the liner in place.
Or just use the collet.
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RRuser
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General
When trying to fit the E3Dlite6 into a Wades, the filament collet gets in the way a little:
Some say to leave it off if the PTFE has a good fit in the Wades. It seems however, that if you can slide the PTFE up into the Wades, that after many retractions the liner might slip upwards. Does this happen? Or should the Wades be modded a bit to be able to take the collet?
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RRuser
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General
I've read that sometimes slic3r gets stuck, and changes in settings do not affect it any more until you start with a new configuration from scratch. Might this update to 1.2.8 have just done this?
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RRuser
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Slic3r
What or where is the feature/setting that lets you change layer heights like this?
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RRuser
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Slic3r
No, I think the bed shape is just for a flat surface.
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RRuser
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Slic3r
The alignment of the brass nut for the Z threaded rods does seem very important. I have a similar one in my steel i3, and if slightly tilted, the brass nut will really bind that Z threaded rod, so much so that you can't turn it by hand.
As for warping acrylic frames, at least I can avoid that problem, with the steel frame.
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RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
My extruder has no print-cooling fan, and I'm printing in PETG only. Are there some settings or techniques that should be used for bridges, in this case?
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RRuser
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Slic3r
When putting the washers and nuts on the Wades big gear hobbed bolt, it is free-wheeling, but wobbly, if the nuts are not tight. And the inside of the bearings are not turning (the bolt is just spinning inside the bearing). If you tighten the nuts more, the wobble goes away, but the gear no longer free-wheels (it will stop itself as soon as you let go). But the bearing is turning this time.
Whi
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RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
If it's Windows 10, then I think there is a special certificate you need to get.
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RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
The cracked/broken frames was the main reason I went with the steel Createc i3. Harder to assemble the steel, but non-flexing and permanent. But I'm sure you will get yours in order.
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RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
Shipping was about $70 and took three days. The kit has everything including a E3Dlite6 that I chose, and a printed Wades.
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RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
Was this figured out?
I can move the first part, and if I duplicate it, I can move the two parts separately. But if I load another part, I cannot move this new part even if I select it. Maybe that's how it's supposed to work.
Really neat though, moving things around on the plate.
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RRuser
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Slic3r
This corresponds to Createc's video:
Createc Prusa Steel i3 "Psique" video #2 - Y axis
These attached pics of kit parts are slightly different from the video.
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RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
Well they are easy to get to, and tighten, so we will see how they progress.
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RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
I see. Well the powder coating seems extremely tough, such as on automotive engine parts, and after tightening all the screws so far, none have done any flaking. I think if the metal is prepared properly before the coating, it sticks better.
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RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
How solid was this support?
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RRuser
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Slic3r
When it flips, does it know to place the bottom of the model on the bed?
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RRuser
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Slic3r
Not sure what the washers would do; would seem to just add to the complexity.
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RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
This corresponds to Createc's video:
Createc Steel Prusa i3 "Psique" video#1 - Frame
The 3 mm metal frame parts are very heavy duty, and powder coated black. Since they are the same 3 mm as the Createc aluminum version, these steel ones are much heavier, which I wanted so as to keep the printer in place:
Steel Frame
Frame went to together very fast, about 20 minutes, once I figured out how t
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RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
