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Marlin has some MAX setting for X,Y,Z,E but I forget the exact names
by
RRuser
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Printing
The "runners on a track" is a good analogy. And actually, if holes are always a fixed amount too small (0.5 mm, etc), then it seems not too hard to program a slicer to just simply always oversize holes by that amount. And that amount can be a user settable variable.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Check the gcode for the downward moves. Also the Z rods might be binding. Or the Z downward speed might be too high (or Z driver voltage too low) to make the motor move in that direction.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Yes bed leveling is most important. A steel frame, with rigid triangular braces, and a glass plate with a silicone thermal pad on each corner, works great.
QuoteThe default width for the first layer was 200% (of normal extrusion width). In my opinion this should be set to 100%, or slightly more if it's really necessary.
I set mine to 250%, and I have two glass plates of different thicknesses; I
by
RRuser
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Printing
Sounding like a partial clog. Higher temps will let plastic get through easier.
"I don't think it's possible to have too much tension" -- With softer filaments (like PETG that I use), I've had the high tension flatten the filament so that it had trouble getting through the pathway; especially on multiple retractions. I even took one of the springs out so it would only have half the tension.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Also, printing it with external perimeters first, might tell you something. And, rotating 90 degrees.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Quality of the filament is almost never the problem.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Since higher temps look better (from more extrusion), it might not be related to retraction, and instead it might just be under-extrusion.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Now get the extrusion up.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Resonance would not repeat itself in the same XY place though; it would be variable.
There is something, at certain repeatable Y positions, which is always causing X to be moved to the right a little bit, and for just a blip. And it's the same Y positions no matter the Z height.
First thing to try is to cut the speed in half. If the ripples stay at the same Y positions, then something mechanic
by
RRuser
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Printing
My 1.2.9 has never done that, unless way over extruded. Or lots of excess heat on a very small part.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Just change the threshold and hysterisis value in marlin and re-flash.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Also maybe warping, causing the top to lift up and hit the nozzle.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Looks like just lack of retraction.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Looks like 5% infill.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Another thing to look for in higher-height shifts, is warping which caused the top to hit the nozzle.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Mine would commonly default to a 0.4 outer perimeter width, with a 0.4 nozzle. It would often not bond well at higher speeds, so I manually changed it to 0.48 like the rest, and it bonds well now.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Mine can't retract faster than 35 mm/s. It will squeel at higher speeds.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Mine went to 500+ for a bit, during a Marlin lock up. Replaced the ptfe, but not the thermister, and it's doing good now.
by
RRuser
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Printing
I discovered that when you are slicing multiples of the same part (such as 20 copies of the same small part, on the tray at once), that if you first slice just one part by itself, which is quick, then when you multiply the part to the number you need and slice again, it only take the same amount of slicing time as the single part did.
I think what it's doing is that it knows that multiples of t
by
RRuser
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Slic3r
When a clear epoxy is filled thickly with a white filler such as titanium dioxide, does it still visually discolor after time or does it keep the color of the filler?
by
RRuser
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Polymer Working Group
I think a nozzle can also wear out by dragging across the print.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Mine attached without a bracket. The aluminum fins go up into the black round hole, and the two screws below the wades gears holds the aluminum in.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants