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Also try changing the Detect Thin Walls setting.
by
RRuser
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Slic3r
I just got my second Createc Steel i3
I prefer threaded rods because they don't lose position when powered off.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
Fixed. My solution was to put a ferrite ring around the cables.
by
RRuser
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General
On 1.2.9 on a 3 wall perimeter, when I set the perimeter speed and the outer perimeter speed to 50 mm/s, it does the proper speed on the inner two perimeters but then speeds up on the outer perimeter. Any setting I change does not seem to slow the outer perimeter speed down. Is this normal?
by
RRuser
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Slic3r
Quoteperforming retraction along a seam, slic3r has that option somewhere
Would like to find where this option is.
by
RRuser
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Printing
I would have gotten it, had it had the LCD built in, and had nicer looking designs in the steel. But steel is great and really holds it's shape.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
Maybe for mechanical vibrations. I sometimes find that if a line has many short zig zag segments, then I need slower speed, or else the nozzle tries to go through them with the same speed as long straight lines.
by
RRuser
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Slic3r
Seems like Detect Bridging Perimeters is the only possible direct setting for this. Or change to a different type of infill.
by
RRuser
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Slic3r
I'll try that cable. Also order a ferrite ring that clamp around the ribbon.
The garbling has only been recent, however. So something is changing, causing more of it. Also, the extruder now is making random travels in X or Y, then going back to print properly. Probably also a cable/interference issue.
by
RRuser
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General
Well I was looking for general ideas, but mine is a prusa i3 with marlin 1.0.3 with this lcd...
The ribbon cables are separated out by themselves, way away from almost everything. I've jiggled the cables, connectors, controller, lcd, and banged on the frame, but cannot make it happen. It just garbles by itself, usually on the second layer, and then further up.
I'm trying new SD cards now.
by
RRuser
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General
Especially on versions with the SD card attached. Anyone figured out what conditions cause this?
by
RRuser
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General
Well I would imagine that the feature was meant for characteristic of printing, and not insulation. I wonder what the characteristics might be.
by
RRuser
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Slic3r
Usually, out of round circles can be a loose belt problem, but yours sounds like it might be a model problem.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
Worked for me. Although the output was much larger than my desktop slice.
by
RRuser
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Slic3r
Always wondered what the purpose of that was; why do solid every so often?
by
RRuser
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Slic3r
Quote I recently got a RepRapDiscount Smart Controller board, and it kind of works. The info screen when first powering it on works fine, but after scrolling up and down bunch of weird symbols pop up on the screen.
Make sure the ribbon cables and connectors are good. Ribbons should not touch or be near any other wires, and, the two ribbons should not run next to each other either.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
My pcd was a little warped and I could not get it straight with 3-point leveling, but 4-point held it in place properly.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
Sounds like a loose power connection to the board, which when the bed is on and using lots of current, the loose connection can't keep the voltage up.
Try wiggling the board while watching the display.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
If the bolts are not still, the bed will shift from side to side. Should not affect Z though. If your Z is off, especially too far away, your first layer won't stick and will look thin.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
You can always just give the command to move the axis 1, or 10, or 100 mm and then measure how far it went.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
The USB does supply power, so when not connected, there could be a supply problem. Not sure where to look though; there are many diagrams online.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
Increase infill here:
Print Settings > Infill > Fill Density
by
RRuser
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Slic3r
Well this is interesting. How do you add a model within a model?
by
RRuser
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Slic3r
I'm a big fan of simpler = better. No ABL, for example. Get it right, and you don't have to touch it for months.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteI just printed the 80 degree overhand test thingiverse.com/699366 It looks like anything over a 45 degree angle I get stinging underneath. How do I tune this to make it better?
Try a smaller layer height (maybe 0.1) and possibly also a narrower extrusion width. These will cause less plastic to hang off of the overhang.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants