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Sadly the UK website doesn't show LG ABS pellets, have you tried any other types?
Seems plastic pellets are not easy to find in the UK....
by
Traveltrousers
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
So after another frustrating morning re-levelling my bed I've once again been thinking about auto bed levelling.
The matterhacker solution is pretty cool, but requires more hardware (and a different board) and is also quite slow.
So my idea was to place 4 washers in each corner, each gripped by a bulldog clip. These are wired together and then to the ground of the bed heater or bed thermistor.(
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
Remember that sketchup isn't a proper 'solid' modeller too and it's circles are rather 'hacky'.
Try modelling the same problem area with more sections in your tube....
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
A 13" mirror from Home Bargains at the back lets me see what's happening underneath the fan too...
That LED fan is great, but could I run the LED's off the fan power?
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
This is what happened to me before my terminal power block melted. Check your melzi board....
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
you can press the reset button on the melzi to stop it and use an M82 command to use absolute distances, set it back to 0,0,0 and try again.
Try one part PVA glue to water if you're printing PLA, works great.
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
Try printing two objects at the same time so they have a chance to cool down a little between layers...
I melted my fan duct a bt too since I was setting the fan speed settings a little low.
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
When printing ABS I usually wait for the bed to reach the first layer temperature, -5 degrees, before I set the extruder temperature.
In the time it takes for the bed to raise 5 degrees the nozzle can get up to 230 or so quite easily.
I also find a heat gun pointed at the bed for a minute (or to 100 degrees) also moves things along a lot quicker... you're going to expend the energy anyway, may
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
The Pi is powered externally.
If I was going to power it off the M90 I would come direct from the PSU rather than the Melzi.
The pictures of Chargenuts connector burn look much worse, but they're the hotbed ones....
So, the solution is to replace and resolder the terminal connector? /bleh
I've been printing ABS for the last 2 weeks at 120/210...
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
So, my M90 stopped working...
After the fan stopped spinning when I flip the power I got concerned, and a quick look at the Melzi board revealed the negative power cable had scorched the terminal block.
Taking the board off the frame shows rthat the underside is also damaged....
The fan did spin up a couple of times as I swapped USB cables and checked whether it was my Pi causing the problem or
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
I put mine in the box provided by nophead with the 3 of the lid flaps holding up a large polystyrene square and a blanket on top. I close the last flap when printing ABS>
It's not pretty but it's only seen by me, so its quick, cheap and effective.
It will work until I build a nice clear case for it...
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
When you turn on the printer it has no idea where the head is, so it needs to home to find out...
The end stops tell it where 'home' is...
Grats on your build, enjoy!!
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
hold the end stop switches and keep issuing M119 commands, they should show H....
You can't move until you home the axis.... after you confirm M119 is working as expected....
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
Incidentally, how long can we expect the steppers to last?
It it prudent to have a spare on hand or will the printers be obsolete by the time it comes to need a replacement?
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
Whenever my M90 is homed on all three axis and I perform a manual extrude it comes out really fast and the printer moves to the regular limits of the printer, ie from 100.90 to 99.
Should it do this? It sounds really jarring and almost like something is wrong....
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
You clean with acetone for ABS, for PLA use a 1/10 mixture of PVA glue and water....
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
Not if you live in the UK....
Every single plug here has a fuse in it...
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
I've been printing PLA fine so now I need some ABS parts... not so easy....
Basically, my bed stays at 135 or so for the first layer and then should drop a little for the rest of the print, but it's dropping a LOT!
Even though M205 is reporting it should be at 130 it drops to around 90 and then slowly creeps back up, like one degree a minute....
I do have some funky starting G-code to push off
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
I really think the kits should ship with a single large block junction to put the black PSU wires in, and a short, but thick, piece of cable to connect that to the melzi.
I had a friend who worked as a electronic engineer help me with my build and he was very sceptical about that part of the build.
I also took about 1/2 hour of messing around to get the thing to fit. A single block junction woul
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
Get right down and watch the first layer come out of the nozzle, it should be literally being smeared across the bed. if it's falling or round the extruder is too high and you need to either relevel, set the Z-height in firmware or both.
Check out my bed levelling test I put on thingiverse
if that doesn't stick to the bed, there's your problem...
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
Can Cura connect to your printer?
Try a linux disc....
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
Actually, I had the same problem with my main machine, but my netbook worked fine.
Download the latest version of pronterface....
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Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
Can you borrow another computer?
Or burn a linux disc and try that....
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
That word 'theoretically' sounds like a challenge!! :p
After a bit of googling, I found this which looks like it should provide a suitably cheap interface between the pi serial pins and.... the TX/RX/VCC/GND pins on JP16 of the melzi board?
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
Is your bed properly levelled?
I print PLA on glass (with PVA juice) at 185/85 and have trouble getting my prints off the bed sometimes...
your first layer should be very flat and completely filled. I slice my first layer in slic3r with 150% flow....
post a picture of the first layer....
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
Is it possible to tap directly into the serial port on the Melzi board?
With a 256mb Octoprinter I need 1 USB port for the wifi and then there isn't a printer connection, unless I buy a USB hub and by that time I may as well have just bought the 512Mb pi....
The octoprinter is pretty good, no fails so far. Not quite as responsive or easy as pronterface, but pretty close....
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
It's mostly been reliable, but I do use my computer for some intensive tasks sometimes, but then this morning (and yesterday) I was away from the computer and it stopped halfway through...
I borrowed* a raspberry pi from a friend, and just put octoprint on it so we'll see how reliable that is...
* I'm 'fixing' for him :p
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
I just sent a small, 430kb 28 layer file to the SD card and it took three minutes. That's slow!
If I transferred it by hand it would be half done by now, and I don't have to return to the printer to start it off.
I'm printing PLA, so I start the heating before the move to 0 and it hit 190 degrees 20 seconds after that, waits for 60 seconds (while my bed gets to 90) and then starts.
I have a sl
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
Hi guys
So at the moment, we have 3 ways to print.
1. Eject the SD card, load a file, put it back, start the file.
Great reliability, but what a pain....
2. Upload to the SD card via pronterface...
Reliable, but really, really slow for large files.
3. Print from Proterface/Cura.
Quick, easy, but a major pain when the job fails.
Why can't we combine 2 & 3?
A small slice of g-code is sent to
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
Good work muelli
Can you share some pictures and your schematic please?
by
Traveltrousers
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Mendel90
Page 3 of 4
Pages: 1234
- 11 years ago