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Quotescooter_seh
I installed the MightyCore hardware core using the Arduino board manager.
Hi @scooter_seh,
I'm afraid I'm a bit of a novice at the Arduino stuff, so was wondering whether this means that you burned a new bootloader based on the MightyCore using the Sanguino compatible pinouts? Or what is it that using MightyCore gets you? I have a copy of Sanguinololu's which I would want to
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CraigRK
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Mendel90
I'm no expert here, but you might want to put an M109 (with appropriate params) before your M42.
M104 sets target temp and then continues. Obviously G1 is also immediately returning and acting on the next command.
If you so a M109 (which sets target temp and then waits to reach the temp), I assume that it will let the G1 execute first and then will wait for target temp to be reached before e
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CraigRK
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General
I've got my printer housed in an old drinks fridge on a sliding drawer. Works greats. Is insulated. The door is double glazed glass.
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CraigRK
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General
Quotereifsnyderb
Hello!
The folgertech hotend is a chinese J-Head knock-off and has not been properly machined. If those PEEK threads are not right, the hot-end will fall apart.
If you are going to buy an e3d, support e3d and buy from them. They did the research and development, they took the risks, they will use some of the money to do research and development for new hot-ends. If you would
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CraigRK
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General
ABS Pellets:
Natural ABS pellets suitable for using with filament extruder (e.g. Filastruder, Lyman Filament Extruder, etc) to produce filament for 3D Printing.
These pellets have an MFR rating of 28g/10min @ 220°C/10.0Kg
PLA Pellets
Natural PLA pellets suitable for using with filament extruder (e.g. Filastruder, Lyman Filament Extruder, etc) to produce filament for 3D Printing.
(Ingeo 4032D - P
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CraigRK
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For Sale
Quotesolidude
I don't understand how the Instructables Extruder is in any way more danger of electrocution compared to Filastruder.
I also don't understand how decomposition of ABS can happen because of the size of the heater if the heater is running at the same 180C-ish and motor is running faster and the plastic is flowing faster.
Quite simply, the Instructable says to use a mains power heater
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CraigRK
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
QuoteCraigRK
To all those who recently tried to buy PLA or masterbatch, all stock levels on emakershop have been updated.
Regards,
Craig
Orders of 25kg of PLA made within the next 2 weeks will receive a free 14x25g multi pack of Masterbatch. Email me for the best shipping rate.
Regards,
Craig
print3d@kritzinge
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CraigRK
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For Sale
To all those who recently tried to buy PLA or masterbatch, all stock levels on emakershop have been updated.
Regards,
Craig
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CraigRK
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For Sale
Hi Paul,
As discussed via email, currently out of stock of PLA, will have within the next 2 weeks or so.
Regards,
Craig
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CraigRK
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For Sale
QuoteSound
Okay, I confirm I have now extended the usage of the rectangle model with semicircles even in those cases that were previously handled by very similar yet different formulas. The main reason I did this hypothetical "fix" is to stop discussing on a secondary factor that has very limited impact on dimensional issues, but was still attracting too much attention giving users the feeling th
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CraigRK
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Slic3r
QuoteSound
I'm open to testing the change in the upcoming experimental release.
Great, thanks. I've been quietly following this thread and was going to suggest this.
I value the contributions both you and Nophead make to the community.
QuoteSound
So, luckily this change won't raise too many complaints since it will change very little. But unluckily, it's not the definitive solution for getting
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CraigRK
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Slic3r
Quotewaitaki
Interesting questions which puzzle me too! As far as holes are concerned, that subject rears its ugly head very often. It seems to me that when pulling plastic around a small circumference, it tends to be "pulled" inward, hence reducing the hole size. At the other extreme, if you had a hole 150mm diameter it would probably be quite accurate because the extruder is going in a 'bent' l
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CraigRK
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Slic3r
Quotes10blazed
The electronics are GEN6 with a fairly recent Marlin firmware.
Great, I wonder why they don't simply say that openly. Admittedly I didn't dig very deep in the site.
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CraigRK
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General
Got you on that.
I was inquisitive, so I went to look at those printers, and I couldn't see anything about what the electronics were based on, and only 1 or 2 obscure pictures. Seems very "closed" for something based quite blatantly on an "open" project.
Anything, going off topic, so let's stop there.
Good luck getting an E3D working!!!
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CraigRK
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General
I have no experience of this printer, but I can't imagine that it would be that big a deal to replace the current electronics with generic RepRap electronics, then you don't have to be limited by their firmware lock down.
Just my 2p worth.
I am running an E3D on my homebuilt Mendel90 and it's a dream.
Craig
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CraigRK
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General
Got one for $2.99 on ebay.
Also raised a case with the seller to see what they do about it. To be honest, not really fussed as it isn't much money, but it's the principle. I paid for something so I should get it. :-)
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CraigRK
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Sanguino(lolu)
QuoteDust
Or you could just buy the SL converter its a whole $1.50usd! (on special atm)
Thanks Dust. Funny how you can search and search and not find it. All Google hits showed me the complete kit. (I was not trawling the Geetech site)
Annoyingly the listing I bought off said it had the Sanguinololu Smart adapter included, but it came with the RAMPS one.
I was hoping to not wait for a coupl
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CraigRK
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Sanguino(lolu)
Hi all,
I have updated the listings (http://www.emakershop.com/Seller=1324) to include better volume discounts.
ABS rates drop to £4/kg for bulk purchases.
PLA is purchased in lower quantities, so I didn't get the same volume discount as on the ABS, hence a slightly higher base price. Starts @ £6/kg for 1kg and quickly drops to £4.50/kg
Masterbatch now available in 7 standard colours: black, w
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CraigRK
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For Sale
RobbyG,
Thanks for providing this. It turns out that what they sent me looks like this:
(although in white, so not actually the Geeetech one)
When I look at the Sainsmart site, it has these two:
- Sanguinololu version - RAMPS version
The only differences between the two Sainsmart boards seems to be the connector board. Which seems to be a "dumb" (i.e. no electornics) board. With the R
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CraigRK
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Sanguino(lolu)
Robby,
Please do post this pin out, as I have just ordered a board for which I suspect I will need it.
Thanks,
Craig
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CraigRK
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Sanguino(lolu)
I have no relationship to E3D, other than having bought a hotend from them (I do supply pellets for Filastruders, but again, I have no direct association with Filastruder). I haven't used it yet, so can' comment, good or bad, however, I have two issues with your post:
Quote3DogNate
this is my first post and first time I've been disappointed with a 3D printer part I've purchased.
It would help
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CraigRK
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General
Quotethejollygrimreaper
QuoteCraigRK
Quotethejollygrimreaper
Quotebruce356
Hi nophead,
QuotenopheadThis is why I maintain there needs to be a mould relief taper in all metal hot ends and no seams in the cold part for the filament to jam on.
Can you please explain / demonstrate what you mean by this, not sure where to put the taper or in which direction.
Thanks - bruce
here's one of nopheads pos
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CraigRK
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General
Quoteajayre
You would have thought that the companies selling repraps with multiple heads would have money to invest in slicer development to make sure their products are well supported...
True!!!
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CraigRK
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General
1) Manually "jog" the print head to the top of the print as stated by JDV.
2) If you then send this GCode to the printer "M114", it will tell you the current Z height (sorry printer is off can't paste an example)
3) Search for a line with "G1 Zx.xxx" where x.xxx is the Z height you measured in 2 above.
4) Copy all the lines from this line onwards and paste them as JDV suggested.
5) Don't forg
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CraigRK
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General
Hi ajayre, Great detail post, thanks...
Quoteajayre
* I've looked at several slicers and ran into problems with them all. If I could find a commercial slicer that ran on Windows and properly supported three hotends in a user-friendly way (priming, wipe tower, AMF, tested) I would gladly put some money down for a license...
Have you thought of offering a bounty? ( Reprap Bounties ) That way t
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CraigRK
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General
Quotethejollygrimreaper
Quotebruce356
Hi nophead,
QuotenopheadThis is why I maintain there needs to be a mould relief taper in all metal hot ends and no seams in the cold part for the filament to jam on.
Can you please explain / demonstrate what you mean by this, not sure where to put the taper or in which direction.
Thanks - bruce
here's one of nopheads posts on the topic, here
Reading the wh
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CraigRK
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General
Searched for "Kossel mini extruder" on Thingiverse. This is a different variation...
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:215010
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CraigRK
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General
Quotebrnrd
Sorry about that. I should have quoted the first post.
I just did so someone else doesn't get confused.
Yeah, but what doesn't help is that the title of post says "extruder", and (IMHO) in a lot of Reprap terminology/posts the word "extruder" typically refers to the cold end, with the hotend being expressly referenced as such.
I'll concede that many will think of the "extruder" as
by
CraigRK
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General
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Pages: 12345