QuoteDennisCowdery I also am dubious about putting the thermistor signal in the same wiring loom as the fat amps, I see why it is done but it does not help, it probably gives a route for good noise injection into low level logic. Dennis I don't have any worries about running them in the same loom. The circuit diagram shows a 10uF capacitor across each of the two analog inputs, which is more thanby dc42 - Ormerod
I would check on the underside of the board that all 4 of the header pins that the extruder motor connects to have been soldered. It might also be worth examining the rightmost of the four A4982 chips on the top side, to see if there are any solder bridges between pins.by dc42 - Ormerod
I got around to adding 100 ohm resistors in series with the bed mosfet and hot end heater mosfet gates. I also removed the flyback diode that I added earlier. Here are some before-and-after pics of the signals on the mosfet drains. First the hot end heater without the gate resistor: Note that the vertical scale is 10V/div in the first picture and 5V/div in the second. The turn-off has changedby dc42 - Ormerod
If the Duet crashes when the bed heater first turns on, then I would suspect the power supply connections between the power distribution board and the Duet. Check that the terminal block screws are done up tight. The power mosfet turns on quite slowly, so the transient you get at this point is modest. I suppose it is possible that RapRapPro may be using different makes of ATX power supply and somby dc42 - Ormerod
Quotetru168 I don't know if its already done by Duet firmware, but I will suggest Software developer can use PWM output to switch on and off the MOSFET for heater, to act as soft start by ramping its output . That might reduce surge current on power rail. The extruder heater is PWM, the bed heater is on/off. Currently, the mosfet turns the bed heater off very fast, which gives rise to large buby dc42 - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 As I am a bit from printing myself I do not know if this is a problem at all if heat sink compound is added between the alu block and the cooling block Documentation says: "...If you have it you can put a little heatsink compound..." I had some Arctic Silver, so I used that. Quotekwikius As an aside... Its probably best to turn the heater off and let the fan run for several minuby dc42 - Ormerod
kwikius, the clips are not very satisfactory for holding the bed down because they get in the way of the head, the fan duct, and the sensor. See this thread for a better alternative.by dc42 - Ormerod
Yes, lots of people have found the same thing. The latest firmware (Duet branch) has an increased start-up delay, which is supposed to fix at least some of the problems.by dc42 - Ormerod
My print head started sagging again, throwing out the z-probe calibration. This time, it wasn't the x-runner causing the problem. What had happened was that the 2 screws securing the nozzle to the nozzle mount were no longer as tight as they used to be. I suspect that the heat conducted from the hot end through the screws had softened the plastic. Also, the cap-head screws don't sit in the middleby dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteRory166 Hi All What about drilling and tapping the cog for a metal grub screw. This should provide a more positive fixing after all any backlash is undesirable. Rory Yes, that would be more satisfactory. I think the backlash was the reason for the incorrect layer heights. With z-stepper current increased and accelerations and max movement rates reduced, the problem has almost gone away (by dc42 - Ormerod
Hi T3p3, I don't think there is much wrong with the switching regulator, other than it could do with C3 being a lot larger to better tolerate brownouts (because the 12V supply is going to drop very quickly if the bed heater is on), and there should preferably be a 10nf capacitor in parallel with the 3k92 feedback resistor to improve transient response. The issues seem to be to be mostly around tby dc42 - Ormerod
Hi Ian, My observations on stepper rotations make more sense if it is 0.8mm pitch, since 3 layers come to 0.75mm. So it looks like my stepper is moving correctly, i.e. just under 1 rev per 3 layers. I've increased the current to 1000mA and decreased the z-acceleration and max speed as a precaution. But something is going wrong at least some of the time, because my current print is coming out unby dc42 - Ormerod
I've just started another thread on incorrect z-axis height. I think there should be 1 revolution of the z stepper per 2 x 0.24mm layers, but I'm getting more like 1 revolution every 3 layers. The web interface is reporting z=23.28mm, but holding a ruler up to it, it looks more like 14mm to me. The axis compensation piece seemed to print OK. I don't know what size it is meant to be, but I measurby dc42 - Ormerod
Despite reverting to the original gear which revolves smoothly (see thread about stuttering), I still have a problem with the Z axis not moving far enough between layers. I can see that the Z axis is moving between layers, but the work is coming out under-height. I believe the M5 rod has a thread pitch of 0.5mm, and it looks like the z driving and driven gears have equal numbers of teeth. I am uby dc42 - Ormerod
Hi Rosario, I just had my z-motor missing steps because the gears were too tight (this was because I had replaced one of them with my won printed part). I suggest you check that with the power off, you can rotate the threaded rod clockwise easily by hand. The Pronterface "printer is offline" message occurs when config.g has not been run, so the Ormerod is not in Marlin emulation mode. When youby dc42 - Ormerod
Ian, that setting may have had nothing to do with the problem after all. Although removing the line appeared to fix the issue, the same thing happened again a few hours later, this time 50mm up the print instead of at the start. The original z-driven gear was eccentric, so I had replaced it with my own printed part. It turned out that my replacement was a little stiff at one point in the rotatioby dc42 - Ormerod
I see that you have a few threads and blobs on the snowflake. I had these problems on one of my test pieces, see this thread. The test piece was "hollow dodecahedron" from thingyverse, scaled down to half size. In the end I got better results after making the following changes to the slic3r settings: Filament: decrease temperature on 2nd and subsequent layers to 200C. Extruder 1: increase retraby dc42 - Ormerod
I've just found something interesting. I was having very little problem connecting my laptop to the Ormerod via Ethernet, once I bridged the wired and wireless ports. But now I have moved the Ormerod to be next to my admin computer, so I connected it to my 8-port gigabit switch instead. From my admin computer, I find that I can get the control page and then the password page to come up, but in trby dc42 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts Hmm... sounds like missed steps to me. Did you play with the acceleration or max axis speeds? Ian RepRapPro tech support Yes I did. The command you suggested was this: QuoteMaximum feedrates (mm/s): M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z5.00 E45.00 But when I tried that, the printer wouldn't run setbed. I looked at the firmware source and found this: Quote case 203: // Set maximum feedratby dc42 - Ormerod
I think I found the immediate cause of the problem. The Z axis is not going up the correct distance between layers. The Ethernet interface said it was at 5.75mm but it was nothing like as high as that, more like 2mm. Now I just need to find out why that was.by dc42 - Ormerod
Ever since I started printing, I've notice that the extruder sometimes stutters. It's now got a lot worse. On the piece I'm now printing, it's got a lot worse. Nearly half the time when it is printing, the extruder is not rotating, it's stuttering. The head still appears to be extruding even while this is happening. It's as if the firmware is trying to feed filament to the head much faster than iby dc42 - Ormerod
Yes thanks, the new x-rib and x-plate fitted fine. The remaining mechanical problem I had was that the x-runner bearing couldn't be moved far enough in the slot to prevent the print head sagging, but I solved that by substituting a 623ZZ 10mm bearing for the 9mm one. Did you by any chance design this originally for a 10mm bearing, and substitute the 9mm bearing after you had problems on one of thby dc42 - Ormerod
Hi Greg, From my experience, here are some issues that may affect you: - first 220 boards need to get 5V power from USB due to a manufacturing fault - once you connect via Pronterface, it appears that you can no longer connect via Ethernet without powering down or resetting - if you are using the SD card supplied with the kit, it may not process the config.g file and therefore your IP address sby dc42 - Ormerod
Hi Ian, I no longer need a replacement Duet board because I've repaired the existing one. I can connect using the network and ATX power only, or with USB. I would still like a new electronics box front plate (because I drilled out all the holes to 4mm before I realised that the top 2 were supposed to self-tap - the instructions didn't say this at the time), and a couple of 3-way header shells (by dc42 - Ormerod
Yes, the LM1117 doesn't look like a good choice of regulator, because of its high dropout voltage. Even at lower currents, the dropout voltage is still 1V. The best drop-in replacement I found (i.e. same pin configuration and at least 500mA rating) was the Microchip TC2117-3.3VDBTR.by dc42 - Ormerod
Sounds like I should turn on the bed heater and let it come to temperature in setbed.g, between homing the axes and running the auto bed levelling procedure.by dc42 - Ormerod
I'm printing from SD card, because others on this forum have said that the print quality from USB is not as good. Every time I want to do a new print, I have to power the Ormerod down, take out the SD card, put it in the adapter, plug it into the computer, copy the file across, unplug the adapter, take out the SD card, put it back in the Ormerod, power it up, re-establish the Ethernet connectionby dc42 - Ormerod
What is the power quality like in your area? One potential problem with the standard arrangement (deriving the +5V supply from the 12V supply) is that if there is a power brownout, and the bed heater is on at the time, the 12V supply will drop very quickly, and the 5V and 3.3V supplies shortly after. I added an extra capacitor on my board to hold the +12V input to the regulator up for a little loby dc42 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts It looks like M201 and M203 are implemented, so you can change those on the fly, but not M205 (lines 1510 to 1535 ): Thanks, I'll try adding those commands. Looks like the default max extruder feed fate set in the firmware is only 16mm/sec,by dc42 - Ormerod