1. Re gluing acrylic, I understand that you need a special glue for this (acrylic monomer) because most adhesives won't adhere well to acrylic. 2. Re allen head screws, after assembling a few joints I went out and bought 2mm and 2.5mm hex drivers, because I realised it would take an age to assemble all the joints using allens keys. I think this should be recommended in the build instructions. Onby dc42 - Ormerod
Hi Ian, I made 2 resistor changes: 1. Reduced the LED drive series resistor from 160 ohms to 51 ohms, in order to increase the current from 13mA to 40mA. This increases the light output by a factor of about 3, and thereby decreases the effect of ambient light by a similar factor. 2. Reduced the phototransistor load resistor by a factor of 5.5. This is partly to compensate for the IR output havby dc42 - Ormerod
PS: 1. The sensor part number is TCRT1000, not TPRT1000 as I said in my original post. Datasheet here: TCRT1000 2. For anyone else contemplating this mod, I now think the 2.7K load resistor I used could be increased to about 3.9K or perhaps even 4.7K. The important thing is to make sure the reading at the Z-distance you want to use for calibration is below 700.The sensitivity drops off when theby dc42 - Ormerod
You mean the stepper motor drivers? If they are the A4988 as used on previous RepRaps, then at the 800mA current programmed into them in config.g they should not need a heatsink.by dc42 - Ormerod
I've just done a lengthy print job, and the Ormerod stopped just before finishing. It has either finished or nearly finished laying down filament. It didn't execute the standard commands at the end of the gcode file to move the print head and turn off the heaters, it left the print head in contact with the work and the heaters on. Has anyone else experienced this?by dc42 - Ormerod
Regarding "dished washers": because of the way washers are made (pressed from sheet metal), they are typically not quite flat. So if you lay one against a flat surface, either the inside or the outside will be in contact with the surface, depending on which way up you put it. The ones I received in the Ormerod kit were indeed not flat, but slightly dished in this way.by dc42 - Ormerod
FWIW I replaced the 9mm X-runner bearing by a 10mm (623ZZ) bearing today, and that finally resolved the problem I had with a sagging print head.by dc42 - Ormerod
I was able to connect over Ethernet using firmware that I downloaded on 20/12, so I think it must be have been the 17/12 firmware If you can ping it, then the Ethernet connection must be working and you should be able to connect. A few suggestions: - Have you checked that you really are pinging the Duet, i.e. the ping fails if you disconnect the cable or turn the Duet off? - Are you using Chromby dc42 - Ormerod
I was having a problem with Z axis homing and bed plane compensation. I set up the G32 command and automatic bed plane compensation coordinates as instructed. Before printing I home all axes and then run the bed plane compensation. But when I came to print, there were issues with distance between the nozzle and the bed. On one occasion, the nozzle was touching the bed and at least the first 2 layby dc42 - Ormerod
1. Did you update the firmware to latest, i.e. as of 2 days ago? 2. I use the automatic bed plane compensation, so I've never tried the G30 command.by dc42 - Ormerod
I find that I need to power up the Duet, and start trying to connect with Chrome within a few seconds. The first few attempts are unsuccessful because the Duet isn't ready, but after a few tries it connects. Occasionally I find it won't connect, and I have to power the Duet down and start again. Alternatively: power the Duet up, start pinging it, and as soon as I get a successful ping, connect wby dc42 - Ormerod
I've removed those resistors, replaced them with new ones in the correct orientation, and added the 5VEN jumper. So now the board works with ATX power alone. I'm getting 4.93V pin the +5V line. However, now I hear that another mod is needed, which is to solder the tabs of the USB connector to the board. Before I dismantle the unit again to do that mod, are there any other inspections or mods toby dc42 - Ormerod
Thanks! What slick3r parameters do you recommend then?by dc42 - Ormerod
The recommendation for Ormerod printing with PLA seems to be 65C and 205C. But these are normally set by the gcode file you are printing.by dc42 - Ormerod
I would hope that your board will be covered under warranty - it sounds like a manufacturing defect to me. In the meantime, I suggest you try to get Ethernet working. Preferably, plug it into your router. If like me you have it connected to a computer that is wirelessly connected to the router, then you need to bridge the wired and wireless network connections on the computer. When you have sorteby dc42 - Ormerod
Probably not related to problem #2, but I spotted a bug in the firmware. When processing the G10 command, there is no range check on the P parameter. As a result, if you pass any parameter other than -1 (which would set the bed temperature) or 0 (to set the extruder temperature), memory will be corrupted.by dc42 - Ormerod
Is there any chance that your X-belt is slipping? Did you tighten it by adjusting the X-motor position?by dc42 - Ormerod
Chris, I agree with you that the holes are too close to the corners, My MDF plate has partly delaminated between one of the holes and the corner.by dc42 - Ormerod
I've seen some strange behaviour from my Ormerod on several occasions. The problems started after I created and started using a setbed.g file, although they may be unrelated to that because I didn't do very much before that. The issues I see are: 1. Sometimes, when homing the Y axis when the current Y position is already zero, it doesn't drive the carriage to the endstop. Instead, it tries to drby dc42 - Ormerod
I've done my bearing up tight - I wanted to make sure it wouldn't slip, as I had it right at the end of the slot - and the bearing rotates freely. I did make sure to put the washer the right way round (the side that bulges in the middle towards the bearing), and I also added a shakeproof washer between the plain washer and the printed part, to make sure it didn't slip against the plastic. But I'vby dc42 - Ormerod
I thnk that makes three of us - trevor51 has just reported what sounds like the same problem. Ian, I think you need to either supply faster SD cards, or change the firmware to allow the SD card more startup time.by dc42 - Ormerod
Looks like you have the same problem I had, which is that config.g is not running at startup. Workaround: press the Reset button on the Duet before trying to connect Pronterface. Fix: ditch the SD card that came with the kit and substitute a decent one (I used a Maplin own-brand 4Gb class 10 card).by dc42 - Ormerod
Sounds like your config.g file may not be running at startup. I had the same problem. If I pressed the Reset button on the Duet, config.g did get run. I fixed the problem by ditching the SD card that came with the kit and substituting a Maplin 4Gb Class 10 SD card. However, without config.g running, Pronterface didn't regard the printer as online and so couldn't connect (the precompiled Windows vby dc42 - Ormerod
Is the Z sensor turned on? This is normally done by the M558 P1 command in config.g.by dc42 - Ormerod
Success! I changed those resistors, and the sensor is much less sensitive to ambient light. I even reinstated the 50W halogen bulb in the ceiling above the Ormerod, and it only increases the reading by about 15. The highest reading I get is now about 770 at 0mm and it drops to 448 at 1mm. So it's just about clear of the saturation region. I'll calibrate at 1mm or just a little higher. I had to aby dc42 - Ormerod
I'm finding that my proximity sensor is VERY sensitive to ambient light. I already mentioned in another post that when I had a 50W halogen bulb in the ceiling above, I couldn't make it work at all. Now I'm finding that I can't set up parameters that will reliably do the z-homing, because even the sunlight coming through the window is giving quite high readings. What I really want to do is modulaby dc42 - Ormerod
Out of curiosity, what is the change to the z-nut trap? I'm using the new x-rib and x-plate with the old trap adjusted to fit.by dc42 - Ormerod
I haven't done any prints yet, but there is a huge amount of backwash from the fan on my Omerod, so much so that I thought I must have connected it the wrong way round. But I checked and it is rotating the right way to blow air through the heatsink. So I can quite believe that backwash from the fan is cooling the print too much.by dc42 - Ormerod
I agree, a 10mm bearing would have been better - I wouldn't have had to elongate the slot and the nut trap as much.by dc42 - Ormerod
Hi tru168, Thanks, however that doesn't address the problem. I already have the Ethernet and SD libraries. The SD header file you linked to on github looks the same as the one I already have, and has the same references to sam.h and undefined types U8, S8 etc. The Ethernet library you linked to still doesn't have the file Ethernet_sam.h. I found there is a file called sam.h in the Arduino core,by dc42 - Ormerod