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How do you propose connecting the heater block to the glass? You need to make good thermal contact.
by
Greg Frost
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General
Looking at the pictures of the metal-glass interfacing, it occurred to me that you are fully melting the glass rather than softening it and then working it. Have you tried working with the glass without fully melting it but getting past the temperature where it becomes soft? Could you perhaps create the constriction like a balloon animal balloon by softening (but not melting) the glass in the mid
by
Greg Frost
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General
Prober: Why do you think that design is easier to make? There is a lot of thread cutting/tapping going on with that design and more parts to machine. I prefer Adrians design, but the PEEK block is expensive. Replacing that with a PEEK washer and a steel bracket would be cheaper (wont provide quite as much thermal resistance though). If Brian is going to be moving to a new design, adding further s
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Greg Frost
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General
Can you ship to Australia?
by
Greg Frost
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General
The one on the right in your attached picture is getting close to ideal (if it had a much shorter thermal barrier - I presume that the thermal barrier is that long to make the whole assembly dimensionally similar to the one it is shown alongside). It still has the issue of putting the thermal barrier under tension and because the nozzle is threaded into the thermal barrier it is probably slightly
by
Greg Frost
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General
From what I have read things that are important in a nozzle are:
Short melt zone (oozing control)... Short, slippery transition zone (decrease possibility of jamming)... Mechanically robust...
The "Best Compromise Nozzle" (your first link) has a fairly long melt zone. This is necessary because of the large nozzle and, the need to wrap nichrome and the need to mechanically thread the nozzle into
by
Greg Frost
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General
Interesting about the bubbles. I wonder if you need to heat treat the wire first. I take it you cant just pull the wire out once it has cooled.
by
Greg Frost
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General
Can you make the parts for this: (PEEK block, PTFE insulator, brass nozzle)?
If so, how much would you charge?
by
Greg Frost
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For Sale
What type of controller did you use? Did you get another Techzone one or a pololu or something else?
by
Greg Frost
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Reprappers
Once you have a way to make a strong tip with a reliable nozzle size (using either a mandrel or as Viktor suggests, just etching a write), my next concern with these nozzles would be getting the heat from the nichrome (or whatever heating block is used) into the plastic. The experiment that you did suggested that the thermocouple temperature needed to be higher than required for a brass nozzle. T
by
Greg Frost
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General
I would like to see you attempt to make a blunt nozzle using a 0.5mm drill bit as a mandrel (i.e. put the drill bit in the tube and shrink the glass onto it, then remove it after it hardens a bit). I dont like the idea of the drawn nozzles. They look a bit flimsy to me. But using a mandrel may allow you to get a small hole where it stays small for some depth allowing you to grind the end to a nic
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Greg Frost
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General
It takes an enormous amount of time to put one of these things together.
It is also easy to get stuck.
I applaud your decision to "support" through completion.
That should be of enormous benefit to anyone taking up your offer.
I bought (paid for) a Techzone kit back in the middle of May. Between waiting for it to arrive, assembling it, working out how to get around various design issues, finding
by
Greg Frost
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Job Shop: I make stuff!
What if the infill was done with a zigzag where the spacing of the zigzag was the same as the spacing of the infill of the layer below. Would the warping stress then straighten the zigzag rather than warping the part? It seems to me that straight lines for infill would be worst case for warping.
by
Greg Frost
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General
My concern with having the nichrome on the inside (Are you talking about wrapping it around the mandrel prior to shrinking the glass onto it?) would be that it would burn the plastic. Having it on the other side of a block of brass or aluminium helps to spread the heat more evenly so that the plastic is heated to its melting point, but not significantly more.
Perhaps you could include a SS inser
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Greg Frost
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General
BalanceSeeker sent me the firmware and I have posted it to the wiki in case anyone else is looking for it:
by
Greg Frost
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Controllers
If you could post your code that would be great. I dont have a heated bed and I have the techzone remix electronics with the MAX6675 thermocouple for the extruder (this is what I got with the techzone complete laser cut kit).
by
Greg Frost
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
What firmware are you using? I have tried to use the standard reprap firmware, but when I uncomment the line in configuration.h for the 6675 thermocouple, the sketch no longer compiles:
// Temperature measurement
// Uncomment ONE of the next three
//#define USE_THERMISTOR
//#define AD595_THERMOCOUPLE
#define MAX6675_THERMOCOUPLE
error: 'NUMTEMPS' was not declared in this scope In member functi
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Greg Frost
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
Can you post this "firmware sent by Lambert and Kimberly" that you speak of somewhere. I have had little luck trying to contact them and the techzone thermocouple page on the wiki says the firmware is "coming soon". This is very frustrating considering I have shelled out over $1100AU for the kit, and I cant even get the firmware that is needed to use it.
by
Greg Frost
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Controllers
I bought the full TechZone Laser Cut kit including electronics and power supply. It has the Techzone remix electronics and the "techzone thermocouple board" which is on a small piece of breadboard (I'll upload a photo to the assembly page).
I have been able to get my 3 axes moving using the reprap-mendel-20100628 firmware, but I dont know what to do for the extruder board because the techzone th
by
Greg Frost
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General Mendel Topics
I am now trying to get the extruder board working, but I cant get it to read the temperature. I have connected the
thermocouple board in accordance with
What firmware should I be using on the extruder board?
The page referenced above says this:
For information on the Firmware, and to download the firmware file, see
TechZone_Thermocouple_Firmware page.(coming soon)
But the "c
by
Greg Frost
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General Mendel Topics
stevew: regarding your "EMI" issue, I think that it is far more likely that what you are seeing is more related to ground bounce than to radiated EMI. You should make sure that the power and ground leads that connect your boards are as short as possible and use relatively heavy gauge wire. If you still have problems, I would look at adding some bypass capacitors to the power rails.
Lionel: Did y
by
Greg Frost
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General Mendel Topics
You may also want to look at my openscad script:
by
Greg Frost
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General
I think I have what is needed. I ended up creating a tooth with a tooth thickness using the outside pitch diameter and the tooth profile using the back cone radius . The parameters for the pair of bevel gears that I chose to render for the thing show how the large gear is like a circular rack with almost straight teeth and the small gear is like a normal gear with clearly involute profile teeth.
by
Greg Frost
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General
Victor,
I'm thinking about your analogy, and by that thought experiment, I think you are wrong.
If you move the pitch apex to infinity, the "outside pitch diameter" and the "back cone radius" describe the same thing, so it is not particularly enlightening. If however, you go the other way and make the pitch angle approach 90 degrees, the gear becomes a circular rack. If you used the "outside pitc
by
Greg Frost
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General
So is the involute profile of the gear generated using a base radius which is based on the "outside pitch diameter" or the "back cone radius"? (refer to the attached image for what I mean by the quoted terms).
by
Greg Frost
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General
I wonder how accurate the inner and outer diameters are on those ceramic rods. I am envisaging a rod with a hole sized to fit the filament (1/8" would be good) enclosed within a ceramic rod whose ID matches the OD of the rod holding the filament. It says that these rods come with one end sealed, so you could machine a heater block that fitted within the larger rod and hold it in with the smaller
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Greg Frost
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General
I have spent some time researching involute gears and came up with
I would now like to have bevel gears (conical gears), but Im finding it much harder to find any reference to the mathematics behind them.
Can anyone point me to a source of information on the maths behind this type of gearing?
by
Greg Frost
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General
I bought a techzone kit back on 15th May. It took about a month to arrive and it ended up being sent without the extruder because they were having issues with it jamming. Apparently they caught up with Wade at the Maker Faire and after some suggestions from him and some tinkering, they have come up with some improvements and they claim it is now one of the fastest extruders they have seen. I will
by
Greg Frost
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General