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There should be a two row pinheader above the screw terminals. there are all the signals you need. If you feel confident to read the schematics you could try to use these pins. or you could by pin headers with longer pins like for arduino shields and screw them into the terminals to get pin headers back
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
Hi James,
I have set up my printer to move to a certain point after printing and switch off the 12V power supply. This will result in the hotend not beeing activly cooled. I have not seen any problems with that. You will have problems keeping the heated bed at temperature. Your UPS will have to keep it at temperature because a small drop will cause the parts to come loose. At least for my printe
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
You have to put it where the red circle is.
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
Have you checked your wiring? Are the motors turning the way they are supposed to turn? What is your Z-Probe value?
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
On startup your printer has no idea where the axis are; they could be anywhere so they are set to 0. You have to move them to a known point. In case of the y axis it moves way out to possition 220 until it reaches an endstop. Which it does encounter because the Y-axis is only 200mm long.
This is done with the line
G1 Y220 F2000 S1 ; move to position Y 220 or until endstop
G92 Y200 ; define end
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
You can find any changed files undert the commit list of the github page:
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
If you do not want to use the webinterface you can skip the ethernet setup. Your printer should work with something like pronterface over the usb connection regardless of the ethernet part.
you can also use pronterface to start a print from your sd card so the usb connection is not needed to be available the whole time.
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
The Print attached is the base layer of a rectangle that should be filled for the first layer.
Problem is, the border sticks very well to the bed as the print begins. The infill doesn't; it warps outward instead.
I changed Temperature from 185°C to 175°C during the last half of the layer (lower left corner). The bed temperature was set to 60°C material is PLA 0.4mm first layer hight.
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DasBasti
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Printing
I don't know if this has to do with your firmware, but I changed from dc42 to your for testing purposes. Now it seams that the extruder does significantly put out less filament than before.
EDIT: I found the problem. Slic3r was configured with 3mm PLA instead of 1.75mm. Your firmware works a treat! Thank you very much
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
the homing is done by driving into the endstop, backing up a little and slowly driving into the endstop again. This gives a better homing because your bed does not have a big momentum.
the IR sensor should be fine at that value. I had the same values.
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
when you put the paper below the glass you might see that the glass will absorb some of the IR light. So be aware that this will drastically change the values you read from the sensor.
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
to download stl files from github right click on the raw icon in the top right and save as... rename to .stl. Or download the whole git repository as zip. that might be easier.
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
I have very good experience with printing PLA on 'hot' (56°C) Kapton tape. I give the tape a wipe with glasses wipes that are trenched in IPA. Works a treat.
by
DasBasti
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Ormerod
Isn't the ATmega32U4 the chip on the Arduino Yun? So there should be a port of the library.
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
Try moving the Y axis by had into the endstop. does the LED on the duet board goes out when you hear the click from the microswitch? are you sure you connected to the correct terminals on the duet? he duet does come with additional micro switch terminals for X and Z axis that are not connected.
If that does work try the Command M119 while having the Y axis at the endstop. You should get the curr
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
The Github repository does still contain the files for Version 1 of the Ormerod. You just have to select the Tag: V1.0 ->
You can modify the temperatures on several places. You can change them on the fly in the web interface. You can cange them in the G Code that is generated from your slicer and you can manually change it in the G Code you uplaod to your printer. same with the extrusion rat
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
It's not only the play in the tongue. Its the Bowden cable itself that is slightly bigger than the filament. So there is an outer and inner radius the filament can take whether it is extruding or retracting. Also the Bowden tube may stretch a little when the filament is under pressure. This all leads to some dead time before the filament is fed into the hotend.
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
Hi Sagar,
try homing with the sensor shaded. It is very sensitive to IR-light.
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
The description nema 17 and 23 do not neccessarily mean that the bigger motor is more powerfull. its just the physical mesurments of the motor. The Duet has Motordrivers that can give up to 2A driving power. So when you have a Nema 23 Motor that is capable of this motor current you can use them. Have a look at the motors datasheet for that.
When you switch the motors you have to adapt for the b
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
Did some test prints and can say it works a treat.
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
Just flashed the new firmware and everything looks good so far. Just fired up a test print so let's see how this works out.
The shifting of X and Y axes did not happen this time. So fingers crossed.
EDIT: Just had the test print fail because the Y-axis did not move at all. I does move at first to home itself and than fail to do any movement at all during the print. even running something like c
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
Have a look what happens to your X and Y coordinates after you did the z homing. If they change without actually changing the positions of the printhead this might be the problem.
For now I will try to align the X and Y axis as good as I can get it. Maybe I have time to look at the code for the compensation part this weekend.
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
another thing is that when is home x and y axis and move to a specific point. i.e. the z homing point G1 X65 Y8.
I do a z homing afterwards and move to the same point (G1 X65 Y8) the head actually moves a couple of millimeters in x and y direction. what is happening during z homing?
homez.g:
G91
G1 Z3 F200
G90
G1 X65 Y8 F12000
G30
EDIT: This are the values after Z homing: X60.77 Y4.79 Z2.29
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
Hi dc42 I gave your Firmware (RepRapFirmware-078r-dc42.bin) another try and this is what I found:
The X axis motor turns the other way than with original firmware -> turned the connector around The homing does not mark the axis as homed in the web interface. RepRapFirmware-078s-alpha-dc42.bin does this though
With 78s-alpha it felt like the y and x axis are driven more than needed. I had pr
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
Quotedc42
1. Which version of my firmware fork are you running? The version I recommend is 0.78r-dc42 available via .
I got the master tree. will test with dev tree later today.
Quotedc42
2. You need to be using my version of the web interface, available at . I think you may be using RRP's version, which would account for the axes not being shown as homed.
I got your Webinterface also for master
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
I tried to install your firmware fork but it does not work. I can start the printer, connect via webinterface and can start homing the axes. After the homing cycle the axes are stoll marked as not homed. I changed the content of the sd card to what is in your repository.
The leveling now works OK but I want to have it more reliable because now I have to get the paper out to do a test of the homi
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DasBasti
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Ormerod
Hi,
I just got my Ormerod and it is working rather fine. The only thing that keeps bugging me is the Z-Axis Sensor. To avoid any additional IR-Light I put the Ormerod in a light proof case. The case inside is illuminated with cold white LEDs so no IR lighting there. When I now manually try to find the Z homing point and I follow the steps in the assembly instructions for axis compensation I get
by
DasBasti
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Ormerod
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