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Quotejimboh3
I am new to 3D printing and just scored a pair of Duo's for $250CAD. One works fine and has been modded by previous owner to take std 1.75 filament. The other has a problem with electronics. My intention is to Reprap this one and use the other to build any parts i need for it.
I decided not to go the 32bit route as, at the moment I feel it would be overkill. I have on order a Rumba c
by
SupraGuy
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General
Irdis might have a slightly different answer, but...
In general, the fewer components in between the nozzle and the disc, the more accurate the sensor will be. Any joints or long pieces of material adds possible inaccuracy tot he probing point. What's most important is consistency, so the most direct path from the nozzle tip to pressure on the piezo disc is best. Anywhere that can flex or compre
by
SupraGuy
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General
My printer has a 220mm by 275mm heated bed, and I have pieces that I use with a 19" server rack. Face blanks and patch panels are made in 3 sections screwed together. A 19" monitor bracket was made in 4 pieces to hold the corners of the display. It would have been nice to make things in one monolithic piece, but it's not a big enough advantage to me.
An adapter to rack mount a few other pieces e
by
SupraGuy
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General
QuoteEd3D
Does it have to have any advantages? If I wanted a printer I'd just go out and buy one. If I wanted to build something than I'd have posted asking for printer kit recommendations. This for me is about designing something, understanding the mechanics of it and making something that's my own design. It doesn't have to be innovative. You say I should copy other designs that I know work...
by
SupraGuy
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General
QuoteEd3D
So theres a few differences to the railcore - but it did provide a fair bit of inspiration. I think the main differences are the different rail arrangement, the frame thickness, and the 3x lead screw setup
Like dc42 said, the Railcore offers 3X leadscrew motors with individual control for auto-levelling.
In any case, I was asking what ADVANTAGES, not what differences.
I understand we
by
SupraGuy
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General
In general, I like it.
I'm a little unsure however what advantages it offers over something like the Railcore. It seems to me that if I'm going to be buying linear guides, extrusion and all of the plates, for a CoreXY build, there's already an existing solution out there that does all that that's already been debugged, and issues identified.
by
SupraGuy
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General
For correctness, 1.75mm is the nominal diameter of the filament. 0.875mm is the radius of the filament. (Surface area then is about 2.405mm^2)
However, what you've calculated there is the amount of pressure that there will be in the nozzle if the nozzle is blocked to the point where it can no longer extrude. Any pressure above that point will be lost when the plastic flows out of the nozzle. How
by
SupraGuy
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General
Just about everyone has their magic formula for bed adhesion.
I hardly ever use PLA anymore, I think that I still have a spool in a sealed bag, but I haven't used it since May. Blue tape seems to be a pretty good solution for PLA, even unheated.
It does sound like you're having other issues though. Clogging will cause you no end of grief. It kind of sounds to me like you may have had some issue
by
SupraGuy
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Printing
Had to laugh today.
Several months ago, I bought a PP generic kit with 3 undrilled 20mm piezo discs. It arrived, and I put it to use, but for various reasons, I decided that I wanted to go with something that had more sensor locations, and I ordered more from a third party.
As time went on, Moriquendi stepped in and resolved my problem with the development of the Andromeda product. I swapped th
by
SupraGuy
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General
This is a terrible idea from a control point of view.
If you do this, the nozzle diameter is linked to extrusion pressure. Pressure is linked to extrusion speed, which is in turn linked to print head speed. therefore, you need to extrude faster in order to print faster, but you also need to take acceleration into account, so this means that your nozzle will be getting smaller close to the corner
by
SupraGuy
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General
Cool.
I've actually got a few of the 2004 controllers that I'd like to be able to use with an Arduino for non-printer functions. I was going to pull marlin source code apart to see how it uses it.
by
SupraGuy
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General
Witht he niCr foil, you need to have an even width, or you will get hot spots. The width of the foil determines the resistance, therefore the dissipated wattage at any given point. You need to be REALLY accurate, unless you're just going to use pre-cut strips.
With wire, you will be able to get a consistent dissipated wattage over the length of the wire, to within the wire's tolerance. Then it's
by
SupraGuy
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Reprappers
So is this where we start doing away with mains powered bed heaters, and go to propane or natural gas? 80,000 BTU or so should heat a granite slab to 100 deg C in a reasonable timeframe.
I'm willing to accept that the heated bed must remain heated for the duration of the print. I do that anyways for consistency.
by
SupraGuy
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General
What controller/firmware?
Looks like or
by
SupraGuy
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Printing
The kerchunk sounds like the extruder is skipping. This generally means that there is too much resistance to the filament being pressed into the hot end. This can happen when the nozzle is too close to the surface, or when the hot end isn't hot enough to melt the filament that fast. Sometimes if the motor is being commanded to go faster than the driver can handle.
The motor will skip steps if th
by
SupraGuy
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Printing
Absolute mode is supposed to help with cumulative rounding errors, so I've been told. Personally, I don't know that those errors are really that important to most of us, and with something like this, it probably does not matter at all.
Yes, you should be able to put the extruder into relative mode, retract, take your photo, extrude, then continue.
by
SupraGuy
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Printing
Great info in this thread.
"Best| really doesn't exist for all cases. It always depends on what you're looking for.
Engineering is a series of compromises. Ideal materials do not exist, so we decide what factors are important to us, what do we NEED, what do we want, and what would be nice to have. If we had an ultra lightweight material that could make perfectly straight frictionless surfaces t
by
SupraGuy
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General
Buzzing motors meant hat the motor doesn't have enough power to move. You may need to set the current on the A4988 stepper drivers. Information can be found here:
You will need to check the specifications for the motors that you are using. For 12V operation, it's probably best that they have less than 30 ohms/phase. you should also make sure that you have the phases wired correctly, but if they
by
SupraGuy
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Reprappers
To be fair the mesh display is supposed to magnify imperfections. Full red to full blue represents a total difference of 0.5mm, which is equivalent to about 2 layers of print.
That said, the overall appearance of the mesh looks like a fairly flat surface, in that it's fairly easy to see that most of those points are in a plane, but rough. It would appear that your probe is returning results with
by
SupraGuy
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Duet
How is the thermistor attached? Are you using thermal paste?
Thermal paste is conductive, and not all of these are really well insulated, so the thermal paste might have an intermittent short across the thermistor. It won't be like a dead short, but it might be enough in parallel with the thermistor to account for a sudden rise in measured temperature.
Another possibility that occurs to me is a
by
SupraGuy
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Printing
So far Permatex Copper gasket seems to be good. I coated about 2-3 threads of the heatbreak with a very thin smear on the end that mates to the nozzle. I did not put any on the nozzle at all. I hot-torqued the nozzle in to 30 in-lbs (Slightly higher than the 26.5 in-lbs/3Nm that E3D recommends, but still in a close range.) I ran a shortish print which seemed to go well. It certainly would have be
by
SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Heh. I drive a Japanese car that has BSPT threads in the block for oil and coolant fittings, and live in Canada, where everything that it's possible to buy is NPT. Or any kind of aftermarket sender for oil pressure or temperature is NPT. I have a numch of BSPT to JIC adapters for that kind of stuff.
I'll be very sparing with the sealant, and I have some of those nozzle cleaners. I'll probably a
by
SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Maybe that's my problem. I don't BELIEVE in it enough. I expect the system to leak and therefore it does.
I do have a tube of this in the garage:
I'd almost forgotten that it was there, I bought it to seal an oil cooler line, but ended up replacing the oil cooler with something that used BSPT threads instead. This stuff is supposed to be good to 371°C so it should certainly stand up to 3D pri
by
SupraGuy
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Reprappers
@Digital Dentist: Yes, I do understand that, and it is what I was trying for. When I tightened the nozzle against the throat, I was aiming for the point where there might have been enough room for a sheet of paper between the head of the nozzle and the heat block, and that's about where it is. I can't tell now, because it's full of plastic, but I don't think that it's backed out. It might have be
by
SupraGuy
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Reprappers
QuoteHe3dsky
I’m having a similar problem. Can anyone maybe identify the issue with a photo?
That is almost certainly skipping steps on one axis. the controller is telling the print head to move, and for whatever reason (usually a mechanical jam) it isn't/can't.|
Is there some unusual noise happening with this?
by
SupraGuy
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Printing
Spoke too soon.
It's definitely leaking between the heat block and nozzle threads, and is gradually getting worse. The top pf the heat block is staying clean, thanks for small miracles, but I'm getting an occasional booger of melted plastic dripping onto my printed parts. I cleaned it all up really well, and watched for a while. After a few minutes at 240°C there is a small bubble of melted pla
by
SupraGuy
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Reprappers
For centering on the bed, this will be in the Cura settings. Again, I don't use it so I can't say exactly where to find stuff, but there should be somewhere that has "bed size" on it. Make sure that you have reasonable values for X and Y sizes based on the printer that you're using.
Also, in your firmware, you may need to tune the steps/mm so that when you command a 100mm movement, the print hea
by
SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Sorry, I don't use Cura, so I may not be much help.
When you install the USB driver, it should install a serial port. In whatever you are using (I used Pronterface) you will have to select the serial port and baud rate to connect to the printer. It should also let you do things like home the printer (Move the print head so that it is against all of the endstop switches) set and monitor the hot e
by
SupraGuy
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Reprappers
This looks like a pretty standard ATMEGA based board, so you can probably use the USB driver for an Arduino Mega 2560. You should be able to find drivers from here:
by
SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Well, my leadscrew 3D printer is an exercise in design implementation for building a CNC router, at least in part. It was conceived because I had a useless I3, or at least most of an I3 around that I didn't have much use for, and I had another 3D printer that needed stuff that it wasn't quite up to doing for itself. Plus, I had almost all of the parts before I started building. Some of those, I b
by
SupraGuy
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Reprappers