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I recently was having problems with my PETG. It is a translucent blue.
Calibration prints were coming out with walls opaque pearl blue and extremely
rough to the touch. A lot of blocking in the nozzle.Watching the filament extrude,
there was none of the steam wisps you get on moist ABS/PLA.
I did a google on "how to dry pla filament" and Taulman have a post on making
a filament dryer using a
by
friarfish
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Printing
The very same questions I asked 12 months ago.
Filament is a very personal preference. If it is winter where you live now, avoid ABS. ABS is very
fussy about room temp and unless you have a heated compartment on your printer, every print
will warp off the print bed. Nothing puts a person off of printing quicker then having every print
warp.
PLA is a good starting filament. Fussy and slower then
by
friarfish
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Printing
Hi folks,
just seeking clarification about jerk settings. My understanding is that jerk is the
speed below which a stepper/driver thinks it change velocity instantly.
Now, if you have a heavy bed, like mine, and high jerk for the Y axis you are more likely
to have belt slippages as the momentum of the bed will overcome the instant
velocity change the driver thinks it can do?
So with a heavy be
by
friarfish
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Printing
So it is as if periodically a layer or two gets shunted towards X or Y a bit before returning
back to the original position?
I was getting rhythmic shifts myself. Ended up slowing the Y speed and tightening the heck out
of the Y belt
by
friarfish
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Printing
Hi folks,
finally got the metal filament to work so I've done a biggish print that has been sitting around.
However after inspecting the print I discovered the underside was droopy.
Repeating the print I watch the support being generated and saw it was close to 0.5-1mm from the
surfaces needing support. My Contact-Z distance is set to the default 0.2mm.
Any suggestions? Support that isn't actual
by
friarfish
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Printing
I must admit I never considered using steppers as part of an audiophiles sound
system. :-)
by
friarfish
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Mechanics
The copper/brass one sound nice. Where do they come from?
I found some linear bearing/way? on eBay but rather pricey.
With the stock stainless I bought, I had to order ten from the supplier
and check them when I picked them up. Gave about half back. Wasn't
a popular customer after that.
by
friarfish
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General
Hey all,
thanks for the info. It has simplified it a bit. But I guess max shell/wall width would be
less 2xNozzle?
Thanks again
by
friarfish
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Printing
Hi folks,
just started printing with new roll of Verbatim PLA filament and am currently
doing the usual calibration etc. But this roll is being particularly uncooperative.
Currently I'm printing at 15mm/s @225c and it seems to be kinda working.
I was wondering what experience others have had with just chucking in the towel and
switching to a larger diameter nozzle to fix blocking issues?
I'm us
by
friarfish
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Printing
Hi digital_dentist,
the info gives me something to start with.
Quite like the idea of a musical printer
by
friarfish
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Mechanics
Sorry, my mistake.
8mm
by
friarfish
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General
Hi folks,
in the past few months the Y stepper or the extruder on my beasty has started
regularly producing a 4 tone ascending sequence.
It doesn't seem to be causing any fires etc, so I'm not panicking. But why is this
happening? Is it actually bad? I haven't bothered to find out which motor is doing
it as nothing bad seems to be happening.
If I can find out why this is happening I wouldn't m
by
friarfish
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Mechanics
Hi folks,
something I've been wondering about. I was playing with a spare LM8UU from
eBay the other day and noticed that an inserted M8 shaft would wobble quite
a bit around the axis of the bearing. I went to purchase a "proper" one from
a local bearing supplier to compare but when quoted $60 for one changed my mind.
I was just wondering if anyone who knows a bit about bearings might be able
by
friarfish
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General
Hi folks,
I remember seeing somewhere that there are recommendations for choosing
layer height/ shell width based the nozzle size being used, but I can't remember where
I say them.
All I remember is, I think, shell width = 1.6 * layer height?
Can anyone please fill in the missing info?
Many thanks,
by
friarfish
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Printing
Have you thought about Kisslicer?
Slic3r is a big step in complexity plus, personal opinion, I never found the
removeable rafts very good.
Oh, slic3r is slow. A 3 hour print from kisslicer will be around 5 hours from
slic3r.
by
friarfish
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Printing
I was getting exactly the same occurring.
Dialed the extruder factor right back and bingo it went away.
Printed a LOT of cubes and staircases getting it dialled in.
by
friarfish
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Printing
Hi folks,
probably an obvious answer put I thought I would ask as I'm finishing the bed cooler
for my beasty.
Does a printer benefit more from cooling a print, say PLA, from as many sides
as possible or is just cooling from one side okay?
Many thanks.
by
friarfish
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Printing
Out of curiosity how big is your bed?
The biggest grid I can get on my 200*200 bed is a 2x2.
If you are able to get a 6x6 then your hotend and nozzle must be
practically next to each other or the firmware you are using mustn't
be as fussy as mine is.
by
friarfish
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Printing
just doing the paperwork and closing the office
by
friarfish
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Printing
Well,
in my case I'm using Verbatim PLA with a min temp of 200^. I've settled on 205^c
with a loop/wall speed of 20mm/s and infill of 35mm/s. But the infill is only set to
rectilinear. Honeycomb is brutal.
I could probably just extrude a lot faster but printing would be another matter.
So try setting temp to 5^ above recommended minimun and starting with the above speeds.
First aim at seeing ho
by
friarfish
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Printing
Well,
The third temp sensor is for the second extruder.
You could hack the code to do it. Actually you could hack the code to do anything.
But do you really need two temp probes? Unless you want to operate the two beds
seperately, a single probe on one bed with both heatbeds connected to a single, say
solid state relay should do.
As long as the beds have near identical resistance with the same p
by
friarfish
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Firmware - Marlin
I had missed about Die having a delta.
Wouldn't have tried to help. Haven't even seen a delta
in real life.
I do wonder how he managed to get an inductive sensor to work with
a glass bed. Must have
by
friarfish
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Printing
Thanks everyone.
I'll have to get around to making that fan mount.
by
friarfish
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Printing
Thanks to everyone helped with this.
by
friarfish
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Printing
Urgh!
If your bed is bowed enough to visibly distort glass then i think
you might have bigger problems.
If your heatbed is warping when it is hot, either the mounting holes on the
carriage are too close or you need to back off on the mounting bolts.
Also with an inductive sensor a plain old 4mm thick piece of aluminium
is best for printing on. I had a heap of glass beds i had made up before
swi
by
friarfish
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Printing
I had similar problems with my bed not heating on 12v..
I just had to crank up the output from the psu to 13.5 to fix.
Though if you have a cheap ramps like i do, you'll have to upgrade
the fets.
by
friarfish
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Printing
Urgh,
I was hoping not to have make a bed cooler. It's getting a bit crowded
under the extruder.
Anyone tried mounting a couple of 90mm fans or so on the frame so they
blow on the bed? I suspect this isn't an ideal solution.
by
friarfish
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Printing
Strange.
I'm getting the impression is that pla is fussier then abs.
Thanks everyone
by
friarfish
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Printing
A few more obvious questions.
Inductive sensor secure?
How thick is your aluminium bed?
Tried just using 4 point levelling?
What version of marlin are you running?
by
friarfish
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Printing
