Show all posts by user
Re: prusa i3 mega 2560 ramps 1.4 a4988 - 10 years ago
Have you set the current on the drivers properly? Have you set reasonable speed and acceleration limits in your firmware? Have you properly calibrated the steps/mm for each axis?by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: Ord Bot: Heating Bed unable to reach 110C. Please Help ! - 10 years ago
The picture makes your problem clear. Pads 2 and 3 need to be soldered together along with the black wire, assuming you are using a 12V power supply. If you are only soldering to one of those pads, the heated bed will draw much less current, and fail to heat properly. The reason there are two pads there is to allow for 24V operation, where you would only connect to one of them. It also looksby NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: clogged hotend remove plastic - 10 years ago
A picture may help? Where did you get the J-Head from?by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: LED #4 on ramps 1.4 and very long wait time for heat bead to start up - 10 years ago
It's odd that you don't see any voltage going to the bed for 5 minutes after you command the bed to heat. And at 13.9V the bed should heat fairly rapidly, assuming the PCB was manufactured correctly. Do you have terminals 2 and 3 of the bed tied together? Can you attach your Configuration.h file here for us to look at? Upload it as an attachment please, don't copy and paste the text into yourby NewPerfection - General
Re: Good Bed adhesion - 10 years ago
If you are using a heated bed with PLA, then masking tape is really unnecessary. Some people get away with printing PLA on bare heated glass. Others (including me) coat the bed with glue stick (the purple disappearing kind, others may work as well) or dilute PVA glue (Elmer's or white). Parts pop right off after the bed cools down, sometimes requiring a slight sideways tap with a small hammer.by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: LED #4 on ramps 1.4 and very long wait time for heat bead to start up - 10 years ago
Quotegilsah It takes about 5 min before it will start to heat. You mean that you see no temperature change for 5 minutes after you send the command for the bed to heat? Quotegilsah The LED on the board and LED #4 on ramps blink at the same time but not always in the same pattern. How can they blink at the same time but not blink in the same pattern? Also, they should not blink at all with Sprby NewPerfection - General
Re: Where can I find Ramps/Rambo LCD extension cables? - 10 years ago
Generally cables longer than 250 to 300mm cannot be used for the LCD. Longer than that and problems with interference start to crop up. How long of cables do you need? You may be able to get away with using shielded cable for longer lengths.by NewPerfection - General
Re: Best Delta Controller?? - 10 years ago
Quoteumdpru Are you guys really getting 1/32 microstepping? Wasn't there some controversy with respect to truly getting even 1/16th on your typical reprap? How do you measure that you are getting to that level? It's not likely that the actual position is accurate to 1/32 of a step, or even anywhere close. The advantage that 1/32 microstepping can give is additional stepping smoothness and reducby NewPerfection - Delta Machines
Re: Various problems with Kossel Mini - 10 years ago
I ran into this issue with a Kossel-derivative that I built some time ago. Two things were causing the problem: The endtop logic for the probe was inverted from what it was supposed to be. So the probe thought it had hit the bed right after it had deployed, and then would only move in the +Z direction. The distance that the probe will descend from Z max (home) position before attempting to probby NewPerfection - Delta Machines
Re: PCB-pen Option - 10 years ago
QuoteSoler My only problem now is it is shows that the dimensions of the pcb are about 1/20 scale. Would they happen to be at 1/25.4 scale? I would guess that it's an inch>mm conversion issue, where the output unit of Eagle is in inches, and the RepRap Host software assumes the unit is in mm. In that case, there should be an option somewhere in Eagle to export in mm, or you may be able to sby NewPerfection - General
Re: The KRAKEN quad Extruder - Experiences? - 10 years ago
Quotebobcso why don't you stop being a dick. QuoteSublimeyou started being an ass. Please stop the personal attacks, both of you. It's fine to correct someone and provide a source to reinforce your point, but do not resort to name calling and accusations. Thank you.by NewPerfection - General
Re: WOW New Materials!? - 10 years ago
QuotecdruI still struggle trying to figure out how carbon fiber infused filament would make it stronger. In order to be extruded at some always variable length/width/height the fibers would need to be extremely short. And being so short, you lose all the advantages of the long carbon crystaline structure that gives carbon fibers it's strength. You might as well mix in some charcoal dust...it'd bby NewPerfection - General
Re: PCB-pen Option - 10 years ago
The Java RepRap Host software is quite antiquated, I don't think it has seen an update in a couple of years. Where are you downloading it from? What type of printer and firmware are you using?by NewPerfection - General
Re: CNC style printer, noob alert, help needed 
- 10 years ago
QuoteDavek0974 I am seriously thinking about getting an RS-Ormerod now before throwing more money at this conversion, are they any good or am I just heading for a more expensive world of pain???? Most people have good success with them. Check out the sub-forum for the Ormerod:by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Multi-part printing issues - 10 years ago
That definitely looks like a retraction issue. If you aren't retracting enough (or fast enough), the heated plastic oozes out of the hot end causing stringers everywhere. Then, when the next printed line starts, there is not enough plastic left in the nozzle and a gap is left in the print. Many people have run 1.75mm bowden setups successfully with very little oozing, so it is definitely possiby NewPerfection - Printing
Re: CNC style printer, noob alert, help needed - 10 years ago
Those cheap eBay hot ends are often useless for PLA. In fact, the listing only mentions being compatible with ABS. If you want to print PLA you will need a hot end that is compatible with PLA, such as a genuine J-Head (NOT from eBay) or E3D all-metal hot end, among others. If you release the idler tension, you should be able to easily feed the filament through the heated hot end by hand.by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Hotend wont heat up but steel braided wire does - 10 years ago
Quotemachinistbyday Hi all. I am having a problem with the hotend not heating up. I'm using marlin and pronterface to troubleshoot the setup. I'm making my own printer from scratch. Its a ramps 1.4 arduino. 12x12 heatbed and a hotend/extruder that is direct drive. It has one braided steel wire and it gets very hot. I went by all the standard wiring on the reprap wiki but for some reason the nozzlby NewPerfection - General
Re: Connecting a PSU power supply to an i3 Prusa XL - 10 years ago
I don't think those power supplies have a standard name that describes them. They are 12V switching power supplies, usually used to drive LED's. The cheap Chinese ones off of eBay (and elsewhere) are really hit-and-miss when it comes to quality and longevity. Meanwell (and other name-brand manufacturers) make good quality supplies at a higher price. Something like this:by NewPerfection - General
Re: Servo controlled z-probe on bowden extruder - 10 years ago
QuoteOhmarinus I was thinking of using a spring-loaded system that at the last measuring point will disable itself and slide back into the holder on the carriage, so it doesn't use a servo. But it's still just an idea. - Marinus Something like this?by NewPerfection - General
Re: Help on choosing the right hot end - j-head vs. magma - 10 years ago
QuoteRobdizz Crap, So I just ordered my Makerfarm i3 8" with the .35mm J-Head hotend...and Im a noob to 3d printing...Did I just screw myself?? You'll be fine. The 0.5mm nozzle is more forgiving, but you should be ok with the 0.35mm nozzle. Are you using 1.75mm or 3mm filament?by NewPerfection - General
Re: Banned User - 10 years ago
I noticed that someone in the Ormerod community had the same issue, where he was apparently banned for a couple days, after which his account was working again.by NewPerfection - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Re: Banned - 10 years ago
Not sure what happened. The "Report" button just sends a notification to us administrators though, it won't automatically ban anyone.by NewPerfection - Ormerod
Re: Ord Bot: Heating Bed unable to reach 110C. Please Help ! - 10 years ago
What voltage are you getting at the bed when it is heating up? What's the resistance of your heated bed? Have you run PID auto tune? Are the nozzle and heater block insulated somehow?by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: pla breaking - 10 years ago
I have never had PLA filament break or shatter on me. Then again, I do only purchase from sources that are well-known to be of high quality. I use 3mm exclusively.by NewPerfection - General
Re: Heatbed slow in heating - 10 years ago
What's the resistance of your heated bed? Should be in the 1 to 1.2 Ohm range for optimal heating.by NewPerfection - General
Re: Prusa i3 Frame type - 10 years ago
I use aluminum sheet for my print beds at 1/8" thick.by NewPerfection - General
Re: Solid infill, not really solid - 10 years ago
First question - have you calibrated your E_Steps?by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Layer misalignment on X and Y - 10 years ago
That means, most likely, that wobble due to your Z screws not being perfectly straight is being transmitted into your part. Several solutions exist to counter that. Get perfectly straight threaded rod. Harder said than done. Make sure your Z threaded rods are unconstrained, so that wobble won't force your X axis around. Only the end attached to the Z motors should be fixed. Use smaller diameteby NewPerfection - Printing
Re: 3d printer without access to a 3d printer - 10 years ago
I just use furnace cement - the stuff that is used for repairing cracks in a brick fireplace - for securing the thermistor and resistor into the heater block of the J-Head. Holds up well and no worry about the thermistor falling out and the hot end melting. However, if the thermistor leads break, it makes it more difficult to replace.by NewPerfection - Developers
Re: Layer misalignment on X and Y - 10 years ago
Does the pitch of your Z-axis screws match that of the spacing of the ribbing on your part?by NewPerfection - Printing