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Quoteayouden
Is there any way of checking the size??
Do as tjb1 says. The actual nozzle diameter is largely irrelevant in this case. Set a manual extrusion width in Slic3r, print the object, then measure again.
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NewPerfection
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Printing
Quotesamp20I'll be happy to lend a hand with the tidy up
Cool, hopefully we can get more help.
On a side note: I'm not sure why colons ( : ) in URL's break forum posts sometimes.
On another side note: I wish there was an option to disable smileys in posts. I've turned the option on in the forum settings, but the option doesn't seem to appear when posting. I think a file needs to be modifi
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NewPerfection
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General
QuotePierreYves.Pepinonce I have enough time, I will make the modified firmware public and make a documentation on how to make these changes. Please note that I will be exhibiting my 3D printer at the Bay Area Maker Faire!
That's great. I may be there this year, I hope I see your printer.
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NewPerfection
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Reprappers
Quotepierpaolo9600I'm in love with mendel max 2.0 and iron 3d but i'm not able to find anything online, about building...can you help me ?
The MendelMax 2.0 is well documented (read here), but has parts that are not easy to make at home (stamped and bent steel sheets).
I can't find much information about the Iron 3D, it doesn't seem to have sources released or documentation available anywhere.
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NewPerfection
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General
This is awesome. Keep us updated, and feel free to create a wiki page. Or, if you are doing documentation somewhere else, link to it and someone may be nice enough to transfer it to the wiki.
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NewPerfection
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Reprappers
Quotepierpaolo9600Nice site but i'm searching experiences from users and a full manual for build the reprap. I'm not searching a list of all reprap in the world.
That list is fairly short, and includes only RepRap machines as defined by the RepRap project. Feel free to do some looking yourself to see which designs have good documentation.
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NewPerfection
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General
Quotecnc dickNew perfection equations are correct but they rely on scaling up which would work fine if the original was strong enough but that is not the case. The original design is extremely weak so you would have to go much larger. I would suggest totally supported rails the weight of the larger rails alone will cause it to SAG too much if it was unsupported
Yep. As I said:
QuoteNewPerfecti
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NewPerfection
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General
QuoteJoeDaStuddIf your doing down the Bowden extruder route1.75mm is the only real option,
Why? The Ultimaker is Bowden and uses 3mm filament, and has arguably some of the best prints of any RepRap-based printer, with exception to individual machines of course. The Tantillus uses 3mm as well. I have built a 3mm Bowden machine with a 300mm x 300mm build area, and it works just fine. 1.75mm fi
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NewPerfection
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Reprappers
QuoteDaveXYou could build it, but don't think this design would perform well at that scale--you'd be asking relatively small printed pieces to control relatively large forces, moments and motions. This is all made out of cantilevered beams and the deflections for the same amount of loading would increase by a factor of L^3. So for example in Y, scaling up by (500/200)^3 would get you at least 1
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NewPerfection
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General
QuoteOhmarinusWell, the total price for me is 65 dollars, which totals 46.68 Euro. If I am able to buy the 2x hotend set from Fabber-parts, it will only cost me around 67 euros, so thats 33,5 eur per hotend, which means it's 13 euros cheaper for me in the end. This also comes in handy because I have two machines that need a better hotend.
If you buy two hot ends from RepRap Discount, that totals
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NewPerfection
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General
QuoteJoeDaStuddMeant more to do with cleaning up the Wiki and making as much as information as possible available while being readable.
There is a lot of good information out there, but its split between random wiki pages, forum posts, blogs, thingiverse and youtube videos.
It makes it harder for anyone starting, means their could be dozens people spending time solving an issue which has already
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NewPerfection
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General
QuoterichrapWhat amount of filament do people like? - for me 750g to 1Kg is about ideal, below that it's a pain and above to about 1.5Kg is okay, but not much more.
I do the majority of my printing in white and black (boring, I know). I like 5lb (2.25kg) spools of filament because it results in less empty spools floating around my garage (why don't I just throw them away?) and less mounting and
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NewPerfection
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Printing
The direction the pot is pointing doesn't mean much. You really need to measure Vref on each driver. See:
Also, have you installed all the microstepping jumpers?
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NewPerfection
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RAMPS Electronics
QuoteBuback
There are way too many subforums which must make it hard to moderate. I don't know the numbers, but i'm assuming there are too few moderators for the volume of visitors.
Yep. There aren't very many active admins on these forums. I try to do what I can, but it's a lot of work trying to keep everyone posting in the proper forums, etc. At least the spam problem is quite small now.
Qu
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NewPerfection
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General
Considering that the hot end is able to maintain temperature at 10°C below the asked temperature even if the temperature is increased, I would guess that lack of heating power or too much air movement isn't the problem.
Try running PID auto-tune and see if that corrects the problem. Make sure you run it with normal printing conditions - fans running, typical print temperature, etc.
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NewPerfection
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Ormerod
Quotecrd281my conecern today is wiring my endstops. I've seen people talk about only using 2 wires from the endstops to the ramps but I have yet to see how they connect. (i.e. NC to which pin) I have tried searching the forums and get conflicting information about marlin. How has everyone been wiring these to your smartraps?
I haven't built a SmartRap, but the electronics are going to be setup th
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NewPerfection
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Smart_Rap
QuoteShawnT98027The original MK7 were on Makerbot Thing-O-Matic, hence MK for Maker.
Not quite:
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NewPerfection
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General
QuoteJPT
- I screwed a single heatsink to both the (heating) drivers, so the heatsinks of them are electrically connected. Could this be the source of the problem?
Yep. You just tied the outputs together by doing that.
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NewPerfection
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Sanguino(lolu)
QuoteCreted3d
Do not buy. Likely poor quality.
[3d-industries.myshopify.com]
Unknown quality.
Other than the two sources that I marked, any of those choices would work well. All are high quality and known to work.
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NewPerfection
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General Mendel Topics
QuoteTheCreyDo you have a stl file ?
Couldn't find the file I used, but I had drawn it in SolidWorks anyways (was being lazy). Here's an OpenSCAD version that I whipped up in about 5 minutes. Only took me that long because I couldn't remember some of the syntax and had to look it up (haven't opened OpenSCAD in a while...). I even commented it
The attached STL is for an 8mm diameter, 20mm lon
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NewPerfection
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Delta Machines
Moved this topic to "General" since it is not yet set up as a crowdfunding campaign, and "Bounties" was not the right place for it.
The Kickstarter draft page is pretty sparse of details. From what I can gather, your extruder is taking plastic welding rod and re-extruding it to make it suitable for use with a 3D printer. What is the advantage to doing this over simply buying 3D printer filamen
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NewPerfection
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General
Quote3DogNateDon't let your appreciation for OpenSCAD or other products detract from the fact that real design tools (SolidWorks, Inventor, Alibre) are the appropriate tools for non-hobby work. It's okay to advocate OpenSCAD without trying to throw the other stuff under the bus...
Oh, I'm not throwing other CAD software under the bus. I am an engineer and use CATIA daily, and SolidWorks quite o
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NewPerfection
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General
I think the extruder gears are these: (found by a quick search for "biohazard" on Thingiverse)
I'm pretty sure the extruder is just the standard Greg Wade's etc. for the i3, can be seen here:
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NewPerfection
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General
QuotethejollygrimreaperI've just started one, it's actually been on the to-do list for a little while , it's going to be one of those pages which is going to be quite controversial
Hotend_Comaprison wiki page
I corrected the spelling, hope you don't mind
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NewPerfection
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General
Quoteepatel
The pieces even came with a Certificate of Authenticity with its heritage description (from the first RepRap printer).
That's awesome. Way back, I was never able to get a hold of any printed parts, so I built myself a McWire. Then used that to build other printers.
The original Mendel design actually isn't bad, though it is a bit complex.
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NewPerfection
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General Mendel Topics
QuoteHazer
QuoteNewPerfection
QuoteHazerMcMaster Carr sells M8 dowel pins. Depending on type, you can get internally threaded for $1.50, or standard ones for $10 for a pack of 5.
Or you can print an 8mm dowel pin for almost free
Not for an extruder idler bearing.
Really? Why not? I do that for all of my printers with Wade-style extruders. Works well. I do print them horizontally though, wit
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NewPerfection
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Delta Machines
Quote3DogNateOpenSCAD is quite archaic... (Usable for the most basic of things and being able to use variables for defining dimensions of features is cool... I'm not bagging on it. But beautifully designed parts is not what OpenSCAD is being touted for... It's free and aproachable by those that fear or have no desire for learning a real CAD package.
I think you'll find some people that disagree w
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NewPerfection
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General
Are you using 1.75mm or 3mm? I've used 3mm PVA with a 0.35mm nozzle, nothing smaller though. Is there a gap after the drive wheel or hobbed bolt that could be filled with something to help prevent buckling?
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NewPerfection
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General
QuotetronI want to try other materials, yes the j-head works but I want to try an all metal hot end. I want to use 1.75mm filament and maybe make it a Bowden set up. Thank you for the help.
It helps to know that you are looking for an all-metal hot end. In which case, the current go-to recommendation is the E3D hot end. I'm sure others will chime in as well.
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NewPerfection
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General
QuoteHazerMcMaster Carr sells M8 dowel pins. Depending on type, you can get internally threaded for $1.50, or standard ones for $10 for a pack of 5.
Or you can print an 8mm dowel pin for almost free
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NewPerfection
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Delta Machines