The current setup just sends gcode to the controller in plain text via serial, where the controller converts the gcode into movement.by NewPerfection - General
I have no issues printing Wade's extruder. I am using PLA without a heated bed though, and the PLA I'm using prints well at 175C. If you're using PLA and not running it too hot, that part shouldn't be an issue.by NewPerfection - General
That is an interesting idea. How would an ion beam be created?by NewPerfection - General
"the method can be used to make cheap, strong, flexible and conductive plastic films." Unfortunately I don't think this would work for making conductive filament that is extrudable. They are basically bonding a metal film over the surface of a plastic.by NewPerfection - General
I use a two part makergear nozzle and thermal barrier, and have had no leakage with PLA so far. I have put less than 100 hours on it though.by NewPerfection - General
I'm printing with RAMPS, a 0.35 mm nozzle, and PLA. I use a layer height of 0.20 mm and can print quite well. I print at 175 C at the nozzle, but I likely have a different PLA than you do. Try using a higher temperature, it may be that your layers aren't bonding together properly. Your flow rate might be too low as well, causing the extruder to pull on the filament as it's laying down. Try iby NewPerfection - General
Sounds like it is missing a line of gcode. Seems to be a communications error, not sure how I would track it down though.by NewPerfection - General
I use a 40 mm PC fan to cool the thermal insulator and keep heat from getting to the filament feed. You should be able to turn the big gear by hand and extrude with no trouble with your extruder motor turned off.by NewPerfection - Reprappers
RAMPS will work with any cartesian bot system. You just need to have a stepper based extruder, such as a Wade's (for which there are laser cut versions available.)by NewPerfection - RAMPS Electronics
RepSnapper uses a different temperature reading method than the Host Software. Not sure exactly what that difference is though.by NewPerfection - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Good point. You could always add shield g-code to the homing.gcode, so that it prints those two lines after each homing. Just leave out any z changes and each shield layer will print at the correct height.by NewPerfection - General
Why do you need to home between layers? As long as your steppers aren't missing steps, then homing is not necessary.by NewPerfection - General
MakerGear stuff is great. I have a MakerGear hot end, it's 100% reliable. I use a Wade's filament feed with it and haven't had any issues at all.by NewPerfection - General
Maybe the PID parameters just need adjusted then. I use a 40mm fan to cool the thermal break of my extruder and keep heat from warming up the filament feed. It works quite well. I just hook it up directly to the power supply so it's always on. Need to make sure your hot end is insulated though so you don't cool it off.by NewPerfection - General
CidVilas Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Could everyone post there specs? I'm curious > about Baud rate and Arduino Model. > > Arduino Model: Mega 2560 (RAMPS) > Baud Rate: 115200 > Firmware: Tonokip > GCode Interface: RepSnapper > Computer OS: Windows 7 Starter > > I have printed things with small and large round > holes and hby NewPerfection - RAMPS Electronics
Not sure where your issue is. I use a very short heater barrel (36 mm) and am able to pretty much completely eliminate ooze. I use a retract distance of 36 mm and 0 restart extra distance. Over moves of less than a few cm I get zero ooze, and only a tiny bit beyond that. I'm printing 4042 PLA at 175 C. The +/- 5 C oscillation is normal when not using a PID controlled heater, I get the same tby NewPerfection - General
Triffid_Hunter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I and a few others have investigated differential > hypocycloids, will experiment when my reprap is > printing! > > Check out this and this Your youtube links don't work. I've noticed that before as well.by NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
Getting the same error here...by NewPerfection - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That's expected. F50 doesn't set the speed of an > axis, but the speed of the toolhead, all axes > combined. Exactly. For a move of equal distance in X and Y, the feed rate of each axis by itself will be the feedrate divided by the sqareroot of 2. So for F50, the speed of each axis will be about F35.by NewPerfection - Experimental
I would also be strongly interested in this. No idea how to go about it though I imagine this would reduce the slow down on very short segments, though that just may be a limitation of the Arduino.by NewPerfection - RAMPS Electronics
It definitely doesn't have to be taped. Taping it just makes it easy to remove if it gets broken or the leads snap off, since thermistors are rather fragile.by NewPerfection - General
Those lubricant sprays would not last, they would be pushed out by the plastic. An actual baked on teflon coating might work though.by NewPerfection - Plastic Extruder Working Group
You shouldn't have any wander like that. Look at your start.gcode and see what's in there. I rewrote one that extrudes three parallel lines at the level of the first layer, then goes directly to the print. That way the print starts with full plastic in the barrel.by NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
As long as you have the bushings set up properly with no binding, there's no reason it shouldn't print just as well as the original Mendel.by NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
Well, I'm not sure. I'd guess it has something to do with the new USB chip the Arduino UNO's use. Did you make sure to set the baud rate to 115200 in RepSnapper?by NewPerfection - RepSnapper
Definitely post in the plastic extrusion forum with your ideas once you start working on the project. There will be a lot of interest in it!by NewPerfection - For Sale
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > True, but with that high value, SF would set the > first move which combines X, Y and Z to a speed > that's too fast for the Z axis of the Mendel to > keep up since SF doesn't separate Z moves. Hence, > unless you edit your Gcode, the first layer would > print at Z=0 instead of the desired height. > Settinby NewPerfection - Skeinforge
casainho Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hey! My Zenbot CNC machine and my UP printer, both > have stepper motors (UP printer have smaller > steppers motors than Mendel) and I get round > circles (at least I can't see with my eyes > imperfections on them. I know, I was saying that I don't think stepper motor driven axes would have any impact on priby NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
The fan shouldn't affect how wide your extrusions are. The problem with orbit is that your nozzle will be dribbling the whole time it's moving around, and when you go to start the next layer the first bit of extrusion will have very little plastic. As long as your stepper extruder is slowing down properly with your feed rate, the extrusion size should always be constant.by NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
Bushings can be printed in ABS only if you are going to use a brass bushing insert. ABS directly on the metal rods would wear out very quickly.by NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics