QuoteShawnT98027To print PLA on heated glass, make sure your heated glass is actually 60c... then enjoy Happy Printing ! Most heated beds have the thermistor located under the heating element rather than on top of the glass. This means that the glass temperature is usually a fair bit lower than the thermistor is reading. Although it does appear in his picture that the thermistor is touching theby NewPerfection - Printing
I haven't seen anyone do auto leveling on a Melzi yet (the physical machine type, as long as it is cartesian, is largely irrelevant). It is most certainly possible though. You would follow the same procedure that you would with RAMPS, where the auto level switch replaces the Z min switch. The only difference is that you wouldn't be able to plug a servo directly into the Melzi, you'd have to seby NewPerfection - Reprappers
QuoteEnlightx yeah drops to 10V when heated the hotend just after homing. then when pwm kicks in (approx 10C before target temp) it goes back up to 12v. iv noticed it for a while as you can hear fans on the machine tone down then back up again. And you've measured the current draw from the power supply when the voltage has sagged that much? I just don't see how it's possible for a 4A load to droby NewPerfection - General
QuoteAngelOfGriefI think I will use my old Atmega 644P board and I'm really glad I can get rid of the extruder board. I have found the schematics to this board on this website and it looks essentially there isn't anything on it except for the CPU itself. And it does have an i2c header to drive an LCD. I'll take a look at RAMPS 1.4 schematics now. Take a look at the Sanguinololu schematics, as thby NewPerfection - General
According to the drawing provided by E3D, that standard mounting plate will not work. It needs to match the groove size of the E3D, which is 5.6mm rather than the 4.4mm of the mounting plate you show. It can definitely be printed. The E3D's heat sink, above the bottom fin or two, is barely above room-temperature when operating.by NewPerfection - General
QuotehhbhagatIs it something with my extruder temp? 190C. Or my esteps (I never configured them) Could be either or both, or something else entirely. What extruder is that? Does it use a plunger or idler bearing? What hot end are you using? Is that PLA? 3mm or 1.75mm? Have you adjusted the extruder stepper current?by NewPerfection - Printing
Quoteamr_dwarfI think the E3D complete with fan and housing looks to big to fit inside the Mendel90s fan shroud. But you got in in there without problems? Some modifications (or new printed parts) are required to get the E3D to fit the Mendel90. Several people have used the E3D with Mendel90's. See: , ,by NewPerfection - Mendel90
QuoteCreted3dOk thank you, and what do you think of this? Is good? Cordialy , That is a knock-off J Head. Do not buy it, especially if you plan to print with PLA. See: If you want a J Head, buy from the source: hotends.com. MakerFarm is also a good source. E3D hot ends are popular, though a bit more expensive and bulky. MakerGear makes good stuff too, I have one of their older hot ends andby NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
QuoteOhmarinusYes, the reprapworld J-head is a high-quality hotend with all specifications up to par (so yes, 2mm wide melt-chamber and the PTFE-insert really only sits in the PEEK part). I measured every part and it's correctly produced. The only thing I wasn't able to measure was the nozzle diameter itself (no 0.5mm equivalent in my toolbox). In that case I would ask them for a replacement. Wiby NewPerfection - General
Looks like an adhesion issue. Sometimes PLA just won't stick that well to plain glass. Some people have great success with it, others not so much. I think it depends a lot on the brand/batch of PLA. Try a PVA solution (Elmer's or white glue diluted with water) or glue stick (the disappearing purple stuff works well) on the glass. Some people report success with certain hair sprays too.by NewPerfection - Printing
Quoteadamr1994Whenever I turn on hotbed using pronterface it causes the ramps to smoke a little. Be careful, you'll eventually run out of magic smoke. In all seriousness though, have you check to make sure the screw connections are tight, and that there aren't any bad solder joints? Have you measured the resistance of your heated bed? Does the poly fuse get hot (the big flat yellow thing behinby NewPerfection - Reprappers
Considering you asked for a length in meters, I'm guessing you aren't in the US. If you are in the US though, McMaster is a good source for small quantities:by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Quotetjb1The fuse on Ramps D8 line is an MFR1100 which has an 11amp hold rating and 22amp trip rating. Yep, not to mention that the connector on RAMPS isn't meant to handle that much current either. You could just use a relay connected to D8 to control the power to the heated beds though.by NewPerfection - General
QuotePierreB That blog post then mentions adjusting the end-stop screws, but there are no end-stop screws in this design nor are the endstops themselves adjustable. How do I account for this alignment issue? M666by NewPerfection - Delta Machines
Sounds like a configuration file problem. Try deleting the config.ini file.by NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
That hot end looks nice, probably named "MG" after the hot end it is modeled after: If it is well made, it should work well. The most popular hot end of that type is probably the hotends.com J Head: (don't buy a knock-off J Head!)by NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
Quoteandin Hi, I had some of these motors lying around so I tested them. Unfortunately, the shaft of these motors cannot turn faster than around 18RPM = ~280mm/min = ~4.7 mm/sec. I have tested this for different current levels and different step-rates - same result. How come the vendor's website (2engineers 1:50 geared stepper) suggests a MAX_FEEDRATE of 45 mm/sec ?? This would imply over 80RPMby NewPerfection - For Sale
Post the first 25 or so lines of a gcode file that you have been using, in order to rule that out as the problem.by NewPerfection - Printing
QuoteTheBearF8Thanks I'll try getting a replacement Can you recommend a link where I could perhaps buy a replacement also ? I recommend getting a J Head from the original creator, at hotends.com. QuoteTheBearF8What is the right way to find the correct temperature of a material. Is there a proper procedure or process ? The best way is to start at the lower end of the recommended printing tempeby NewPerfection - Printing
OK, so it appears as if the LCD plugs into the proper port for the LCD (as seen here), but the SD card plugs into the port labeled keypad (also labeled as AUX-2 in the Megatronics schematics). This wouldn't be a problem if they told you the modifications to firmware necessary to make it work. I don't know which pins the SD card reader is attached to, but the pins on the Megatronics side can beby NewPerfection - Reprappers
QuoteTheBearF8 I'm attaching two photos ( 0892 ) The first is the original hot end I just pulled it out of the holder Yes I have a 12VDC fan blowing on the PEEK (The black tube) yes The Other hot end I was waiting for just arrived and so I photographed it ( 0893 ) The only print I have managed to get right was PLA without the fan at around 205 oC Everything else has failed, including thby NewPerfection - Printing
Quotejeremy Cannot find the download option on Github for the sprinter firmware. Can anyone please give me a link to download sprinter. keep getting directed to gethub but find no download button. I know Im doing something stupid! You want the "Download ZIP" button on the right-hand side of the page.by NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
Are you using retraction? Have you played with retraction settings, such as speed and distance?by NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
QuoteGuizmo12It gives me "Sketch too big;" as an error... Quoterandyf1965You need the Atmega 1284p not the 644p to enable autoleveling.... I have a 1284p in the mail hopeful I will have it today or tomorrow so I can autolevel Ah, I didn't notice that Gen 6 uses a 644p. In that case, you might not be able to use auto leveling on Gen 6 after all. Replacing the surface mount 644p would be prettyby NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
Most likely the pointed corners are due to the PLA not having enough time to cool off before the next layer is printed. Try printing a few boxes at the same time, or slow down your print speed. Otherwise the prints look pretty good.by NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
QuoteTheBearF8Sure the original J-Head They are selling that hot end as an original hotends.com hot end, so the hot end you received should match that image exactly (5 slots in the PEEK, compact brass heater block/nozzle, red PTFE liner, etc.). QuoteTheBearF8Can you then recommend a link where I can buy a decent Hot End that will print different materials esp. ABS, PLA, Nylon and NinjaFlexby NewPerfection - Printing
Quoterazor103 I was afraid no one would have the answer to this question. I can usually find something on the web but this issue I could not find anything. It reall is too bad. I had great hope for this to work. I guess I can always purchase another SD board and wire that up the aux port or something so I can move the SD slot away from the the Megatronics board but it really is silly consideringby NewPerfection - Reprappers
QuoteEnlightx Currently testing on both 3DR and a Kissel so heated bed. Get same voltage drops on every psu I have atx, power brick, 12v 20a box. Even tried a branded £15 12v 5a power pack with same results Looks like I misread what you had written before. So, no heated bed? And you verified that the total amperage draw was less than 4A even when heating from cold? If your 12V 20A supply doesby NewPerfection - General
QuoteTheBearF8Currently using a 3D Printer J Head Hot End Kit for 3.0 mm Filament - 0.35 mm, Resistor, Thermistor, Teflon Tubing (from Amazon) It's possible that the J Head that you have is a cheap clone rather than an original J Head. Can you link to the Amazon product that you purchased? Can you also post a picture of the hot end you have, so we can see if it matches what you ordered? Quoby NewPerfection - Printing
QuoteGordieHi, yes your moving bed allows for increased rigidity and accuracy, but what about X axis? Has your machine only the bed moving? The X axis would be a moving carriage attached to rails that run along the upper horizontal extrusions. QuoteGordieI really like your render, what software did you use? SolidWorks. QuoteGordieEdit: I forgot to ask you, what kind of belt do you suggest for mby NewPerfection - Extruded Aluminum Frames