Show all posts by user
Re: which firmware is popular for single motor dual extruders - 10 years ago
Quotedavew_tx I've been looking for a firmware that allows dual extruders with a single stepper. Quite frankly, there isn't a popular firmware available that can do what you want out of the box. AFAIK, there aren't any released hardware designs that are capable of this, which means there is also no firmware to handle it. You will have more trouble with the mechanical side of things than on theby NewPerfection - General
Re: RepStrippa, my plans on a multifunction 3D printer 
Comments are welcome, let me know your thoughts - 10 years ago
Always good to see new designs. I have to ask though, why is your Y axis using a screw drive while your X axis is belt-driven?by NewPerfection - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: What is the best type of 3d printer? - 10 years ago
You will have a very hard time building your own RepRap for $350. Not that it can't be done, but very few people have successfully sourced and built one for that much. The Printrbot Simple kit sells for $350, and they have the advantage of large quantity ordering. Even that is a bare minimum printer, using a wood frame, string-driven axes, and no heated bed. Sourcing all the components yourseby NewPerfection - General
Re: “Prometheus Hot End”: New Customizable All-Metal Hot End! 
[Many Pictures] - 10 years ago
QuoteRP Iron ManI understand why you brought this up and it is an important piece of information that needs to clearly understood. I am fully aware of the details and this is precisely why I was very explicit about what licence I am going to use for this design. There have been several in depth discussions on this that occurred a few months back and there was some dissonance with regards to restby NewPerfection - General
Re: mendel commisioning - need help - 10 years ago
QuoteBasicblacklabel.com I used to install my endstops. It says to use a 3 wire cable and cut one wire. My LED does light up when depressed but m119 reports no change. The mechanical endstop boards require 3 wires to be connected. 1 for signal, 1 each for + and - for power. My guess is that you have + and - connected, which is why the LED on the board works, but do not have the signal wire conby NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
Re: Back Pressure ( still ) - 10 years ago
Is this with your DIY Tech Shop hot end? Where did you buy your PLA from? Have you tried any other PLA? Cheap black PLA filament may have significant quality issues, including contaminants.by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: Power Supply Requesites - 10 years ago
You need at least 16A on the 12V rail to run a heated bed with the rest of the electronics. Look at the sticker on your power supply, and make sure that the 12V rail can supply at least 16A. A 300W AT power supply may not provide enough 12V power.by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: Help needed with thermistor issue: reconfiguring pins - 10 years ago
TEMP_0_PIN should be your current hot end thermistor input, which is now set to pin 13. This pin is what has (apparently) died. TEMP_1_PIN should be your heated bed thermistor input, leave this alone. You should be able to use the pin that is currently attached to T2 as your hot end thermistor input. Try setting TEMP_0_PIN to 14, which should be the pin connected to T2. Then you can plug youby NewPerfection - General
Re: “Prometheus Hot End”: New Customizable All-Metal Hot End! [Many Pictures] - 10 years ago
First off, and I want to get this out of the way because someone will inevitably bring it up, is that CC BY-NC-SA 3.0 is not an open source hardware license. See: QuoteOpen source hardware is hardware whose design is made publicly available so that anyone can study, modify, distribute, make, and sell the design or hardware based on that design. (emphasis mine) Besides that without a patent, yby NewPerfection - General
Re: K type thermocouple with Ramps 1.4 - 10 years ago
You would need an amplifier board to use a thermocouple with RAMPS. AD595 and MAX6675 amplifiers are supported by RAMPS by default. Something like this, using the AD595 chip. That amplifier is available as a kit from MakerBot at a rather high price, considering you could source the components and build one for less than half of what they are charging even in a single quantity. Another optionby NewPerfection - General
Re: Idea for new auto "Z" leveling - 10 years ago
Quotewaitaki Surely .008' is double what you should be setting your nozzle gap to? Ideally, the nozzle gap would be 0. Then for the first layer, the Z would move to the first layer height, ensuring a proper gap. The other option is to zero the Z axis at the required first layer height, and have the print start at Z=0. QuoteRobdizz I have not. I have only had my 3D printer for less than a weekby NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
Re: Z-Axis Calibration - 10 years ago
If your Z axis max feedrate is indeed 450 (mm/s? mm/min? the setting in Marlin is mm/s, but I'm not sure if M203 reports in mm/min or mm/s. The RepRap wiki is somewhat conflicting on this, though I believe it is supposed to be in mm/s. What setting do you actually have in firmware?), that is way too fast. Try limiting it to 3 mm/s or even less. What feedrate do you have set for the Z axis inby NewPerfection - General
Re: Heat Bed Sizing - 10 years ago
QuoteARoschAlso, the 12x12 says up to 20A. You are correct, it does say 20A for the 12"x12" heated bed. I misread that. This is still a bit under-powered, and would draw too much power to be fed directly by RAMPS. QuoteARoschI like the AC idea, but I want everything to run off one power supply and configuring that to work with RAMPS seems like it could be tricky? The advantage of AC power isby NewPerfection - General
Re: Problems with either extruder motor or circuit board - 10 years ago
Most likely the motor driver chip (the black rectangle under the screw terminals for the E axis) would need to be replaced. As I said, this would be quite difficult unless you have experience doing this type of repair. Another option if you don't mind kludging something together, is to wire up an external stepper driver to bypass the integrated one. You would need to solder wires to pins 40 (Eby NewPerfection - Huxley
Re: No filament at printing - 10 years ago
No problem. Post back here if you have other problems that you can't solve by searching. A good way to search the forums here is to use Google, and include "site:forums.reprap.org" (without the quotes) as part of your search term.by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Heat Bed Sizing - 10 years ago
From the description, both of those heaters draw the same amount of power. The description for both says up to 15A, which may or may not mean they draw the same power. If the 12"x12" heater really does draw 15A or less, that means it is only using 180W of power, which is a bit low for that size of heater, and will heat quite slowly especially with a bed that has a large thermal capacity (such aby NewPerfection - General
Re: Problems with either extruder motor or circuit board - 10 years ago
Generally, hot-plugging a motor (unplugging or plugging in the motor with power on) can destroy the motor driver, but will not damage the motor itself. It's likely that you damaged the motor driver. What electronics set does your machine use? If it's an integrated board, such as Melzi, then a repair would be very difficult without an SMD rework station.by NewPerfection - Huxley
Re: Idea for new auto "Z" leveling - 10 years ago
QuoteRobdizzhow do you go about tampering with the firmware Have you ever modified or uploaded firmware using the Arduino IDE?by NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
Re: Help! Single Arduino control of a Darwin - 10 years ago
I ran Gen 2 electronics on my McWire some years ago, and got reasonable prints out of it despite the crappy DC motor MakerBot extruder I was using. When I have a chance, I'll look and see if I still have a copy of the firmware that I used. AFAIK, the SNAP protocol was never implemented on the Arduino-based controllers, and was originally designed for the first generation PIC-based setup, whereby NewPerfection - Darwin
Re: Acetal slide bearings in extrusion to replace smooth rods - 10 years ago
Quotegmh39 Yea, I dont think I have seen a printer use rack and pinion yet. So you'll be on the bleeding edge. It is definitely nice since it is something you can print, but I think buying is much better because you will probably get better accuracy and sizing.by NewPerfection - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Rack and Pinion on a McWire RepStrap - 10 years ago
Quotenophead I am pretty sure nobody has booted off a McWire. I have see a lot of people start building them but not many complete them and start printing. I know this thread is ancient, but it came up in a search and I didn't see it before when I was running my McWire. I completed a McWire way back in 2009, and immediately converted it to be belt driven. From there, I printed two full set ofby NewPerfection - General
Re: New Own Design Printer 'Cherry Pi' - 10 years ago
QuoteRickM The only thing I've not been able to find there is borosilicate glass. I'm having an absolute nightmare trying to get a 250mm round piece. The only place that has it is in the US and charges $40 + $30 shipping with no returns (so if it's broken, I'm screwed). It doesn't need to be borosilicate. Try a piece of round mirror glass like this: (that's 10 inches diameter, which is 254mm).by NewPerfection - Delta Machines
Re: I modelled it, but can I print it? - 10 years ago
How does it look when it's not in isometric view?by NewPerfection - General
Re: No filament at printing - 10 years ago
It sounds like you are loosing a lot of plastic from the hot end as it warms up, and the skirt around your object isn't enough to prime your hot end fully. Try increasing the Minimum extrusion length to something like 10 (or more if necessary) and see if that helps.by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: RepRap 3DR Delta printer Released - 10 years ago
Quoteekaggrat how do you get rid of this seam line ? What slicer are you using? For Slic3r, you can try "Randomize starting points" (bottom of page, here).by NewPerfection - Delta Machines
Re: test cube - 10 years ago
QuoteTheBearF8 Plus I am under the impression, the head moves to home and the filament is supposed to come out and leave a thin line from home to the object I get nothing, layers 1 and 2 printed nothing 3 - 5 were globs and a huge mess Please don't hijack other people's threads. However, what you need is the skirt function. This will print some lines around the object before printing the fiby NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Log in not persisting, cookies are disabled - 10 years ago
No problem. Cookies are the most common way for a website to recognize that you are a returning visitor and remembering your preferences (such as login details). There are other methods, such as browser fingerprinting and IP address tracking, but those methods aren't always 100% accurate (especially IP tracking, where many computers can share the same apparent IP address, and IP addresses can cby NewPerfection - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Re: JunkBot (One man's junk is another man's reprap) - 10 years ago
I like it. Looks very industrial.by NewPerfection - Developers
Re: 3D printer design ideas - 10 years ago
QuoteSvdharma Independant extruder head movement: See: Those are some interesting ideas, it's always good to get new ideas in here!by NewPerfection - General
Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends - 10 years ago
Quotetjb1 3. Now you are using two different units... W/m-K vs W/m-C, you think you can slip that by with your bold and colored text that is suppose to push it as hard evidence? Since we are talking about deltaT, not absolute temperatures, W/m-K and W/m-C are identical. 1 degree K temperature change = 1 degree C temperature change. Basically, we just want something that is a better heat conducby NewPerfection - General