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Re: Does anyone know where to get plans for the 3DR? - 10 years ago
A quick Google search for "RepRap" and "3dr" reveals the location of the source files:by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: Log in not persisting, cookies are disabled - 10 years ago
How do you propose that a log in persist without using cookies? Every site that I know of that has a persistent log in does so using cookies.by NewPerfection - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Re: How to Identify Circuit Board Components - 10 years ago
You'll have to be a lot more specific than that.by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: Newbie Question @ Hotend Temp Display LCD - 10 years ago
Something like this for the idler: Lots of people have problems with the QU-BD extruders.by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Newbie Question @ Hotend Temp Display LCD - 10 years ago
What extruder is that and where did you buy it from? If it doesn't use a ball bearing idler, then you should upgrade to one. What hot end are you using and where did you buy it from? There shouldn't be that much of a temperature gradient from your heater block to the nozzle tip. How are you measuring the temp of the tip of the hot end?by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: I need help developing a delta style 3d printer. - 10 years ago
Under $300 total would be difficult, though possible if you really scrounge for parts. The best way to make the frame is up to you and your skill set. Wood works fine, as does aluminum extrusions. Take a look at existing designs, such as the Rostock and Kossel. You can also look at some others. The Kossel has a print diameter of about 6.7", so I would base the dimensions off of that. Any stby NewPerfection - Developers
Re: clogged hotend remove plastic - 10 years ago
Quotesoaring eagle I got the jhead hot end from a seller on eBay or looks like all the other jhead hot ends. Not all J-Heads are equal. The ones off of eBay are quite often poorly made, and will not print PLA well, if at all.by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: Extruder Printing Issues - 10 years ago
What RepRapPro model have you put together? The Ormerod? Also, it looks like that gcode is in relative E. So, you need to have an M83 at the start of your gcode to make sure the firmware knows to expect relative E gcode. As for number 2, I'm guessing that you are using the Duet electronics? If so, and if you are building an Ormerod, you will get a lot more help in the proper subforum. I cby NewPerfection - Ormerod
Re: Pronterface scale or steps - 10 years ago
For your DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT for X, Y, and Z, use the following calculator: Set the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT for E based on actual length of filament drawn into your extruder: (wanted_length/measured_length)*old_steps_per_unit DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE should be somewhere around the following: {150, 150, 4, 35} These values can be increased or decreased as necessary - increase if you wantby NewPerfection - General
Re: Printing circles that look like ovals - 10 years ago
Quotesteps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) / (belt_pitch * pulley_number_of_teeth) This is correct. is a good check to any hand calculations. The results go into Configuration.h in the following line: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {78.7402,78.7402,200.0*8/3,760*1.1} Where the numbers are for X, Y, Z, E axes.by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Pronterface scale or steps - 10 years ago
Most likely you have your acceleration or max speed settings in firmware set too high, or your steps/mm for each axis are way off.by NewPerfection - General
Re: Arcol.hu V4 hot end. Any reviews? - 10 years ago
QuoteEutronik How can I contact arcol shop? I do not find any mail contact on their website. Go to . Click the "Show Me" button under Contact at the bottom of the page.by NewPerfection - General
Re: test cube - 10 years ago
I'm guessing you mean 0.5mm and 0.6mm? Have you calibrated your extruder steps/mm?by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Hey, new to 3D printing have a electronics question? - 10 years ago
is a good choice. Chinese made, but generally good quality and super fast shipping. Or get one from the designer: A bit more expensive, but US-made and always high quality. I have ordered from both companies, and not been disappointed with either.by NewPerfection - General
Re: Drawing, engraving g-code generating software for reprap - 10 years ago
Take a look at cad.py:by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Multi-part printing issues - 10 years ago
Are your belts tight? Are your pulleys tight on the motor shafts?by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Ramps 1.4 no lights or power with Xbox 203W - 10 years ago
Do you have D1 installed?by NewPerfection - RAMPS Electronics
Re: WOW New Materials!? - 10 years ago
QuoteDirty Steve sure, when it's layed up in a weave. This printing method is only as strong as it's fusable material. A weave isn't the only way for carbon fiber to be useful. You just have to know its limitations. When you need high strength primarily in one direction, unidirectional carbon fiber is extremely useful.by NewPerfection - General
Re: Gen7 Brushless ESC - 10 years ago
Hobby ESC's expect a servo-type control signal. In fact, you can use the Arduino servo library to control a brushless ESC and motor. I know that Marlin natively supports servo control, and other firmwares probably do as well. This way you could just have a gcode command to turn the spindle on and off and control the speed.by NewPerfection - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: New customers Get $150 off first order with Misumi - 10 years ago
This is great! I've been a customer of Misumi for several years now, and been very happy with all of my orders.by NewPerfection - For Sale
Re: LED #4 on ramps 1.4 and very long wait time for heat bead to start up - 10 years ago
That is LED2 that is blinking. It's possible that your board is modified from the original RAMPS 1.4 design, or is simply labeled incorrectly if that LED is indeed labeled as 4. Where did you buy your electronics from? Are either of the poly fuses getting hot? (Big flat yellow things pictured here: ) The most modern firmwares for 8-bit Arduino controllers (like the Arduino Mega used with RAby NewPerfection - General
Re: Marlin dual extruder set-up instrucrions? - 10 years ago
The latest Marlin does contain those lines. Where are you downloading from? You should be downloading it from the main GitHub repository here: So you've ruled out the possibility that it's the Pololu causing problems, that's good. Next you should swap the extruder steppers' plugs and see if the problem switches motors. As a last option you can download the newest Marlin from the link above,by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: Full Makerslide MendleMax Test run - 10 years ago
I can immediately see one issue that you will have. The X-axis belt needs to be parallel to the movement of the axis where it attaches to the carriage. Otherwise the effective length of the belt changes as you move the axis from one side to the other, your belt tension will change, and you will have printing inaccuracies. To check this, move your X axis to the middle and test the belt tension.by NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
Re: Marlin dual extruder set-up instrucrions? - 10 years ago
In Marlin, steps/mm, max speed, and acceleration for each extruder are the same. In other words, Marlin assumes both extruders are identical. So, commanding E0 to move at some speed and distance should have the same result as commanding E1 to move that same speed and distance. Is the Vref on each extruder stepper driver set the same? Also, a quick text search for "offset" in Marlin's Configurby NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: LED #4 on ramps 1.4 and very long wait time for heat bead to start up - 10 years ago
Sprinter does not have PWM capability for the heated bed, which means that it should either be on or off, and the LED for the bed should be steady (not blinking). waitaki is correct that LED4 is for the hot end, and LED2 is for the heated bed. Are you sure that it's LED4 that comes on when you command the bed to heat?by NewPerfection - General
Re: Series vs Parallel z-axis steppers - 10 years ago
I use motors that are similarly rated to those, on an over-sized MendelMax with 10mm rods, which means an X axis that is a fair bit heavier than most. I run my Z axis motors in parallel, with a Vref of 0.4V, giving about 1A total current, or 0.5A per motor. For most machines this should give plenty of power to drive the Z axis. Have you calculated the steps/mm for the Z axis? Have you set a rby NewPerfection - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Re: Ord Bot: Heating Bed unable to reach 110C. Please Help ! - 10 years ago
It doesn't matter as long as you have good electrical contact between the pads. Easiest way would be to push the wire through #2 and into #3 as you suggested. Then solder generously.by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: Ord Bot: Heating Bed unable to reach 110C. Please Help ! - 10 years ago
QuoteJanski So what you are saying is that I should solder Red wire to #2 and Black wire to # 3? Instead the pictured 1 and 2? Please explain what you mean by "Sadler together". Not sure if I am understanding that part and yes I am using a 12V power supply Sorry for newbie questions but appreciate your input Janski The red wire should be soldered to #1. The black wire should be soldereby NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: Hotend not Heating Up - 10 years ago
Quotesnoller After a short at the hotend connector i have the following problem: What shorted? If the leads to the hot end got shorted together, you may have damaged the MOSFET that provides power to the hot end.by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS Temp Issue: Please Help !!! - 10 years ago
RB59 specifies a type of resistor, not the resistance of that resistor. As far as I can tell from the automationtechnologiesinc site, they don't sell extruders or hot ends or include either in their kits, so I can't tell from there what resistor was used. Can you measure the actual resistance of the resistor you are using?by NewPerfection - Printing