Quotegmh39 QuoteSublime QuoteBill Clark interesting. I thought it would be more or less flow assuming the error was a result of the extrusion width but actual travel adjustment would have the same effect without altering the extrusion proccess. see, I'm learning. thanks Never change your X or Y steps per mm based on a print. Test how far the axis moves using a dial gauge or digital callipers toby Sublime - Printing
QuoteLucasGelf It seems like the build instructions were only for the lasercut version. Are they the same instructions? Are there instructions for the printed version somewhere? It uses the exact same parts except for the case. So everything goes together the same way except the case which you will find a one piece assembled stl in the file repo you can use to view the assembled case in 3D. Therby Sublime - Tantillus
QuoteBill Clark interesting. I thought it would be more or less flow assuming the error was a result of the extrusion width but actual travel adjustment would have the same effect without altering the extrusion proccess. see, I'm learning. thanks Never change your X or Y steps per mm based on a print. Test how far the axis moves using a dial gauge or digital callipers to set the X and Y steps peby Sublime - Printing
Quotebeekeg I used mm/s loops=24 Solid=21 Sparse=31 I find that if I use higher speeds there is a risk of axis screws loosening. I guess I should check before each print, as something always goes wrong when I push the envelope speed wise. You can use removable locktite on the screws to prevent them from coming loose. One reason they may be coming loose when trying to push the machine faster iby Sublime - Tantillus
Just rotate the part in replicatorG and then export the stl.by Sublime - Slic3r
Most chips have large solder pads on the back of them and are designed to be cooled via the circuit board and most of them should not actually be cooled through the plastic casing as we do with A4988's. If you notice on the back of the board there is a large metal pad designed to have the heatsink attached to it so you are actually cooling the part of the chip designed to be cooled.by Sublime - General
Netfabb should be able to rotate it. If not you could download Replicator G which can move around the part and even lay it flat based on the vertices. You could also try Blender (in blender select the object and press "R" for rotate and then the letter of the axis you want to rotate "X", "Y" or "Z" and then type in the angle you want to rotate it ie. 90 or -35 or 128 etc. and then press enter).by Sublime - Slic3r
QuoteDansvidania I see. Do you have some guideline to follow on printing the pieces for this mod a part from the drum? I mean number of shells, infill % .. anything. Thank you in advance. The way the parts are designed if you use 2-3 perimeters with 20%-40% octagonal/rounded infill (30%-60% line infill) using a 0.5mm nozzle on all the parts you will end up with almost solid parts. Some of theby Sublime - Tantillus
Quotenophead No I don't use anything that is not open source for Reprap. I didn't realize you were a Linux user?by Sublime - Mendel90
The cable is available at stores that sell fishing supplies. There are two major brands used in RepRap, Power pro which is what I use and dyneema. There are other brands as well you just want to get braided spectra fishing line in 65lb + rating. Both sets of cables do move the mechanism but only the first one makes the idler rod turn in sync with the drive rod. The sections of cable between theby Sublime - Tantillus
For picture one I do not think it will be a problem. When the axis is pushed to other end and more cable is wrapped around the rod it should line up better and they never line up when the axis is at the opposite end because of the cable unwrapping. If you do want it even better or if it does not line up when the axis at the other end you can always add more wraps around the rod until it does lineby Sublime - Tantillus
QuoteRobonz I printed that elepant and I can see why the glass would shift. Because it has some quite steep overhangs it likes to curl and then the head smashes into the curl. Tips on getting less curl would be welcome. I printed another one with the fans running much slower and it I got less curl and less head collissions, is that expected? does high fan speed make more curl? Its a cool printby Sublime - Tantillus
A lot of people with Mendel variant machines swear by using layer heights = to whole steps. It may be worth trying to see if that helps, or even = to half stepping. To try you would enter the steps per mm in the calculator as 6.29125 for whole steps or 12.5825 for half steps.by Sublime - Tantillus
It is well known that J-heads need cooling at the top for PLA and can jam if not cooled enough. The reason is that PLA's glass transition temperature is so low that once the top of the hotend has reached 60c all the filament in it is soft and swells when you push on it which increases friction to the point that the hobbed bolt slips. That is why the Tantillus version of Marlin automatically turnsby Sublime - Tantillus
The nuts compressing the tube is a possible culprit. Cleaning the hotend as Robonz said should also help. But since you said it is time dependent I would guess the hotend transition zone is getting too warm. Do you have the fans running all the time? Could you try increasing the fan minimum speed? Do you have a 25mm fan you could add to the hotend? Are you using a properly made J-head or other weby Sublime - Tantillus
Have you lubricated the rods? If not try applying some Vaseline or grease on the turning rods and see if that helps. Also 120mm/s may be the fastest you can run with the 0.9 degree motors and should be fine.by Sublime - Tantillus
Yeah Kisslicer is the only slicer that does not automatically insert them and when the forum was still up it was a common problem. Quotebilsch Looking at the gcode output from kisslicer, I don't see M82 or M83. Comparing the start of the output from slic3r I see M82 so that is very likely the problem thanks! M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion QuoteSublime It is most likely the firmwareby Sublime - Experimental
If the bearings are tight then yes you could be getting uneven movement of one side over the other. I would take a heat gun or hair dryer and warm up the Z axis parts (be careful and go slowly, you only want to just get it warm) and then let them cool in place. That would allow the bearings to align themselves with the rods as well as get the two arms the same height. Once it is all aligned the Zby Sublime - Tantillus
by Sublime - 3D Design tools
It is most likely the firmware selection is set to relative E in Kisslicer and your actual firmware is set to absolute E. So either add M83 to the start code in Kisslicer to tell the firmware to be in relative or change Kisslicer to absolute E to match the firmware.by Sublime - Experimental
I would say yes the glass moving could be causing this. Yes I think you can get it better, but white can make the lines show up way more with oblique lighting angles. Are the cables musically tight? Is the hotend really rigid in the carriage? If it moves wrap some tape around the top of the hotend and reinstall it. Did your Z steps per mm turn out to be the same as mine at 100.66? If not did youby Sublime - Tantillus
Quotedissidence i am thinking about going to this type of z axis lift system, but i was thinking about just going to a pulley over a geared stepper, i have one an they are remarkably stiff. or do you have stl files of your parts there a guy could try to print first.? If you are talking about the Worm drive one I posted the picture of I can provide the STL's but they are very large parts and mosby Sublime - Mechanics
Quotemaik Looking at the settings now, when you say "retraction distance of 5mm", is that bot the prime and suck values? Yes both of them.by Sublime - Tantillus
For the ears you may need to fudge things a little. One way would be to print with an even narrower path (narrower than the nozzle possibly) as so it does not push on the previous layer with as much force. You could slow down a little so the previous layer has more time to cool. You can increase the fans as to give more cooling. But ultimately any slope greater then 45 degrees can have issues likby Sublime - Tantillus
The only problem areas I see are around the trunk and the seam on the hind quarter. The seam on the hind quarter looks like it is a little starved of plastic and my guess is the wipe may be a little excessive at 10mm. Try 5mm and see if the seams change at all. For the trunk I think the issue is the sections are so close together is is not retracting between them. To change that you would setby Sublime - Tantillus
My first machine has a Nylon Bowden and my First Tantillus used Nylon until I finally got some PTFE. Both are 3mm which you can push on with more force than 1.75mm so that may be a difference.by Sublime - General
Quoterobster34 Has anyone toyed with a constant force spring to counter the bed weight? Seems like a simple post with a coiled spring anchored to the bed would hold the empty bed steady against the modest holding force in the stepper motor. A fully loaded bed might still fall once the power was removed, of course. I'd try prototyping it myself, but 3D printer time is hard to find these days. Iby Sublime - Tantillus
CNS's answer should cover most of it. There is also a chance that the bushings are just a little too tight right now and you need to break them in a little more. If you search the Tantillus Forum you will find a file called breakin.gcode attached to a thread that you can run and it will help break in the bushings. You can also try slowing down the travel speed to 120 and see if that helps. The laby Sublime - Tantillus
The reason I did not do that was because of how much the cable would wander having to turn so many times with a small diameter. With the drum it takes three rotations to go the entire 100mm of Z height which means the most wander you will get is three cable diameters wide or 1.5mm of wander side to side.by Sublime - Tantillus
Maybe the Z axis is sticky? If it were I could see it not moving the Z with each microstep and then moving in a jerky step and leaving the serrations. If you remove the lead screw or cable and move the axis by hand will it fall? If not it could be that one of the bearings is bad. It could be some of the plastic parts are a little warped, in which case use a hair dryer or heat gun and just warm upby Sublime - Tantillus