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Hi Shafri, just downloaded RapR3D and tried to load my first g-code file to test it out.
The first file came back with an error message "1000.0;set" is not a number.
The line of g code which threw this error goes something like this:
M201 X5000.0 Y5000.0 Z150.0 E1000.0;set acceleration
I can see that I would be able to fix the error by removing the comment or at least having a space between t
by
JazzyB
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General
Hi Repetier,
I have been using M42 to trigger a relay, I notice it seems that the M42 gets executed as soon as it is recieved, where movement commands get inserted into a buffer and executed in order.
What I am trying to do is write a simple program to do the following:
move in x
move down in z
activate relay (M42)
deactivate relay (M42)
move up in z
and repeat, it's for a simple pick-and-pla
by
JazzyB
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Repetier
Oh! Legend! :-)
Thanks for the super-fast response AND fix - so I should just download a copy of the entire new firmware 92.3 and give it a try?
by
JazzyB
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Repetier
I too would like to know how to run the second fan on a RUMBA board.
There are 2 headers on the board, FAN_0 and FAN_1
FAN_0 is the job fan, controllable by M106 Sxxx or M107 (to turn off).
Looking at my repetier pins.h setup I see these two lines:
#define ORIG_FAN_PIN 7
#define ORIG_FAN2_PIN 8
And, on other sites, I've seen people trigger pins with the following command:
M42 P8
by
JazzyB
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Repetier
How about now??
:-)
I am a bit of a gcode communicator, having worked with various cnc machines over the past 13 years, I find the 5 scripts limiting - pronterface had that ONE thing going for it, but I can't go without repetier host now, it's great - just needs more room for custom scripts! Ideally a simple way to add custom buttons to the manual control page, I'd like to add buttons such as "
by
JazzyB
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Repetier
One thing you don't want to do is bend the filament by 'wrapping' it around a small spool! It would have to be a large spool which would defeat the purpose of the bowden in the first place which is to keep the mass low.
I really think it would just need to be an existing bowden setup, but modified from:
Bowden > Hotend
To:
Bowden > Micro extruder > Hotend
by
JazzyB
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Mechanics
You're all nuts... lol :-P
Coming from a bowden setup, seeing a (for want of a better word) monstrosity like that! That seems overkill!?!?
Surely you cannot print at a high enough speed with such a heavy x carriage that you NEED that much torque on your filament?
Regardless, THAT is kind of the design I was talking about, except with 400-500mm of bowden tube separating the steppers ;-)
And
by
JazzyB
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Mechanics
He's using a bowden so the weight will not mean too much...
I wouldn't do it personally, I think the torque of one NEMA motor of that size is good... doubling it means if there IS need for that extra pressure, it is also exerted onto the x-carriage and your machine frame... I can't imagine why you would need so much torque? Must be very high speeds? even then my hobbed bolt usually grinds the fi
by
JazzyB
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Reprappers
Wow man... A few people missing the point here!
I had this exact idea the other day... I do have a bowden setup (RepRapPro Mendel) and it is great for large objects where quick moves are permissable but on smaller, finer objects it can be hard to fine-tune 'blobbiness'...
To combat this AND keep the weight of the X Carriage light, I was thinking if I have a NEMA 14 (the RRP stock extruder motor
by
JazzyB
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Mechanics
I just tried that - it looked great in repetier's gcode viewer, nice close threads...
But when I printed using those settings (with E steps too accurate to cause any issues) the threads were way too thin, not enough extrusion so it just sort of blobbed in the corners... didn't work for me.
Dirty Steve, the path does look like it's better (although would take longer to print) but with stock sett
by
JazzyB
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General
I don't think your printer is setup properly - based on these pics, you have 2 issues that I can see:
1) The top infill is not DENSE enough... (AND... this is not a slicer setting!)
This is a tricky TRICKY thing to fix, because naturally you go to your slicer and change the width... A width of 100% means that the extrusion is equal in height and width (ie the printer tries to lay a "round" thre
by
JazzyB
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General
Over my head ;-)
But yeah, higher resoloution and a definate "minimum increment" are generally used, the decimal points are only there to help us weak humans to understand what is going on! ;-)
by
JazzyB
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Printing
Yeah, plus computers dont have a decimal point to work with when sending a signal... you can send 10.01 in ascii, but as a signal you can only send high voltage (ones) or low voltage (zeros) and rather than send a byte for each character the machine will generally prefer to raise the resoloution so that 00000001 becomes the minimum increment amount, then there is never a decimal place. Using 1 mi
by
JazzyB
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Printing
Gulf Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I have also had success post heating the part.
> What I do is when the print is over turn the HB to
> max and put a small cardboard box over the print,
> after 15 mins or so set the HB to 80C then in
> another 15mins or so I turn it off but leave the
> part under the box untill its about room temp.
> This h
by
JazzyB
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Printing
konwiddak Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I don't know of a way this is possible without
> introducing a tiny error. I'm very willing to
> concede the error could be so infantessamally
> small that even the most complex, enormous prints
> would never see a position error if you used
> relative positioning.
What is a "fractional binary number" :
by
JazzyB
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Printing
Ah crap.... that probably is humidity, I've been carelessly storing my filament :-(
by
JazzyB
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Printing
.995+.995+.995+.995+.995+.995+.995+.995+.995+.995 = 9.95
BUT - if your slicer only works to 2 decimal places (just for examples sake) and you use relative extrusion, you would end up with
1+1+1+1+1+1+1+1+1+1= 10
This is the theory... That using absolute, your values would be rounded to 1+.99+1+.99 etc So in the end you still end up with 9.95, although along the way YES you do get "a little more
by
JazzyB
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Printing
Also, the initial Z height is FRIGGEN important! If those 4 parts were made on the one plate it would appear your build plate is not level. If the build plate is level, you may need to drop your initial Z height (z home position, Z endstop, whatever you want to call it)
The first layer of any of my successful prints is usually REALLY smooshed out and flat - the side which touches the glass (or k
by
JazzyB
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Printing
"Turkey bagging" hey? I'll have a look for a good sized box for next time I print this sort of object, I had moderate success tonight though! Pushed the temperature from 180ish up to around 220-230 and I only JUUUST have a tiny crack on one side, but it's the best attempt so far and 200% better than the last, the part is useable, but still could be better.
I also noticed at 230 degrees (my start
by
JazzyB
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Printing
Wow! With pla?
Id say your probably not printing hot enough OR not enough plastic... if theres not enough plastic the layers wont bond either, they will just sit on top of each other... they do need to "squish together" a bit...
My problem is different though, pla works perfectly. But ABS is a different beast, as it cools it REALLY pulls on itself as it contracts... this contracting/pulling for
by
JazzyB
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Printing
LOL :-) Nope!
Just figured that they were separating like plywood or something similar which is made up of multiple layers - that's called delamination, figured it would be the same term here!
by
JazzyB
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Printing
I've done it a LOT - it shouldn't break your nozzle / printer ;-)
And if it DOES it's not because "you should never use 1.0 density" it's because your e-steps (or other slicing settings if you know your e-steps are correct) are not calibrated properly - 1.0 is "100% solid" infill - it is used when you are trying to make the strongest parts (ie parts for your reprap! gears etc)
I am sure you wil
by
JazzyB
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Printing
Hi!
First up, I'd like to say I'm unsure that my thermistor is reading the correct temperature at the hot end (I've found the min extrusion temp for some coloured ABS I have to be 170deg, which to me seems very low - by minimum extrusion temp I mean, if I go any lower than that the extruder stepper motor stutters or stalls). Could it be normal for ABS to still be slowly extruded at 170 or not?
by
JazzyB
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Printing
First issue - Have you corrected that now? What was causing it? If you haven't - I'm sorry, I am SURE it's a setting in slic3r, but I have only used skeinforge myself so I cannot help apart from asking - does it do the same thing if you infill at 1.0 density?
Second issue - I've seen this one a LOT - it looks like you're skipping a tooth on your x or y axis.
*Check that the belts are tight (no
by
JazzyB
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Printing
Found this just now:
Could be a good start if not an actual solution to what we're talking about here...
by
JazzyB
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Printing
Even descriptions work well - I am a CNC machinist and I have a GREAT troubleshooting book (really helped me to excell at work) which has a diagram accompanied by a description such as:
* Surface finish is rough and 'pitted'
* Metal chips are curled very tightly
* Tool wears out quickly
* Screeching noise while cutting
(accompanied by a picture or diagram)
This is also good not just for troubl
by
JazzyB
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Printing
What firmware are you running?
If your firmware accepts this (as I said, I have limited experience, I am not sure which ones do and don't - but I know Marlin accepts this) you can try issuing a M221 S### (On-the-fly flow rate change) where S### is the flow rate change in % (So S100 = 100%, S125 = 125% and so on)
This allows you to change the flow, your e-steps are a lot lower than mine (924) but
by
JazzyB
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Printing
That's better! thanks ;-)
That looks like a problem I was originally having - I noticed my toothed belts were rubbing up against "bits" of the reprap...
Check all the way along your X and Y belts and make sure they're not rubbing... ANYWHERE - each time they would rub a tooth would get snagged on (in my case, a pulley I had on the idler) and it would cause a "twang" (or vibration if you want to
by
JazzyB
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Printing
rrr7 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Except I don't know what access I would need on
> reprap. My original reprap account went away some
> years back when the site got all divided up and
> wiki-ed, so I made a new account just in case. I
> don't want to volunteer someone else to do
> something I might be able to do myself. But if
> someone
by
JazzyB
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Printing
Awesome ;-) yep - everytime I've had those "holes" It's been a filament-feeding problem... not enough grip, or as you say, too tight on the spool holder...
Glad u fixed it!
by
JazzyB
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Printing
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Pages: 123