Show all posts by user
Page 1 of 1 Pages: 1
Results 1 — 14 of 14
Turns out its the filament sensor, from what I read on the Prusa forum some people are having the same problems with shiny or translucent filaments. So I think the part where it says "someone" is sending the M9 and M6 codes I guess its the printer doing it thinking the filament ran out. Thanks for the input however!
Cheers
by
JOEYG
-
Slic3r
Hey Everyone,
Working with the new Prusa MK3, I was printing PLA just fine for a few days then changed the filament to PETG and now this problem. I'll start a print, any print, including the ones that came on the SD card with the printer, it will do its wipe and sometimes even starting printing but stops then parks in the front right asking for a filament change. If I do as asked it will start p
by
JOEYG
-
Slic3r
Hey everyone,
So I can't figure out the lighting setup in the model preferences settings. There are 4 lights you can turn on and I can't figure out what xyz coordinates to put in for any of them. I left the default first one on and it seems like when I fiddle with the others they just get darker. Can someone elaborate how the coordinates tie in to the lighting direction? Optimally I'd like the
by
JOEYG
-
Repetier
Hmmm, Well is does suck waiting so long for the bed to warm up, could kapton tape on the bottom of the glass bed help disperse and or transfer the heat better? My other thought was to switch to aluminum instead of glass.
by
JOEYG
-
Mechanics
Hey guys,
So I was sitting and waiting for my bed to heat up this morning, and granted its kinda cool right now so I figured id be waiting for awhile. However, it was just stuck at 105 so I put the budget plastic enclosure over and heat gunned it to 110 (ABS). So I was looking at the binder clips holding the glass bed and wondering if they actually act as heat sinks and dissipate the heat from t
by
JOEYG
-
Mechanics
I read in an article that the size reduction happens from printing internal perimeters first. So as the filament is being laid down in sequence its being pushed towards the inside of the holes there by reducing your hole size. Or is this the same phenomenon your talking about Digital Dentist?
by
JOEYG
-
Printing
So I reversed the print order and all the drooping pretty much went away! I'm sure I could do some more tweeking to the settings to produce a better quality how ever. Thanks for all of your input guys!
by
JOEYG
-
Printing
So I lowered the layer height from .3 to .28 and it seemed to help a bit especially with the bow part(see pics). I read in an article 25% of your nozzle diameter is a good start (mine being .4).
Mccarman and Floyd, yes I agree that the extruder temp seems low, although its Hatchbox ABS and they claim anywhere from 210-240 temps so I guess technically I'm in range lol. I do think that the thermos
by
JOEYG
-
Printing
Hi all, I think this benchy came out ok except for the droopy parts in the pic, which is the third time happening to me, does anyone have a idea?
220C first layer then 210C with 100C bed
.3 layer height
.5 extrusion width
25mm print speed for everything (bridging is 45)
2mm retraction at 80mm a sec
also I haven't used an enclosure, any ideas would be appreciated
by
JOEYG
-
Printing
Check your belts and or drive gear on the motor, I was having the same problem and I kept adjusting the steps thinking it would work and it just got worse. I was sitting there and noticed the Y belt had so much slack it in I could see it lift before even moving the carriage. I tightened the belt a couple teeth and the set screws on the gear, problem gone, hope it helps.
by
JOEYG
-
Printing
Hey everyone, this might be a silly question, but should I polish or put some kind or high heat dry lubricant on the hot end? I notice that sometimes when the nozzle is moving around or done with a layer as it lifts the z to move to a new section some filament tends to stick to it. This causes mighty thin whispers of strings or bomb crater looking marks in the prints. I have retraction settings p
by
JOEYG
-
Printing
This was exactly the fix! Thank you master obewan! Will this hold the z to that speed regardless of how fast I adjust other settings including print speed?
by
JOEYG
-
Firmware - Marlin
Thanks for the response, thankfully at 2am this morning I have resolved the issue somewhat. So I figured out that the axis direction on both the config h basic and adv needed to match up which resolved my issue. However, now that it's solved I went ahead and calculated and adjusted the Esteps needed to make a full mm of movement and set the homing speed which was TOO fast. I have the homing spee
by
JOEYG
-
Firmware - Marlin
Hey everyone,
I have the reprapguru prusaI3 v2 with arduinio 2560, ramps 1.4 and marlin 1.8.4. So I'm using repetier host and after I home the Z, if I hit the manual control to move the z in ether direction no matter the distance of movement it pretty much does another homing procedure. It will move again in the direction of the end stop and won't stop! I have not figured out the exact distance
by
JOEYG
-
Firmware - Marlin