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QuoteRich K.
So in other words, I would not be able to use Nophead's fork for Marlin with that setup?
Correct - you would need to make changes as described in the Think3DPrint3D blog effectively extending Nophead's fork of Marlin to include the LCD support files, NeilDarlow has done a lot of work in this area, have a read through this thread
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
QuoteRich K.
Okay, so is there a good, cheap, and easy to set up system that will allow me to run my printer 100% independently ( not counting using a seperate computer for slicing and burning g-code on SD cards), without needing wi-fi or Bluetooth capability or
access?
Exactly what the Panelolu2 was designed for.
"good" - Yes, it works, does what it says in the product description.
"cheap" -
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Might be worth reading this as a starting point for printing your own M90 parts:
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Might be worth removing the large gear to get at the hobbed bolt to see if it is 'bunged up' with filament debris between its teeth at some point as if the motor is turning with nothing coming out the other end, you are likely to be grinding away at the filament as the hobbled bolt tries to push it forwards.
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Take a look at the Thursday, September 5, 2013 blog post by NumberSix here:
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Might be worth checking to see if your slicer is using extruder values which are "absolute" rather than "relative" which is what the default M90 firmware is expecting. If it is, the problem is easily rectified by including an M82 line in your start GCode. This will tell the firmware that all E values in your GCODE file are to be treated as absolute values. Of course, this may not be the cause of
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Can you explain exactly what you mean by "slipping"?
Filament is driven through the JHead and it takes some pressure to do this. Are you talking about the hobbed bolt slipping on the filament? If this is the case, you will hear a clicking sound as the filament stays where it is as the hobbed bolt grinds away at it.
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Quoteneildarlow
.... would put the fan on the inside of the machine.
Which is exactly where my fan resides, nearer to the print bed than if it was on the outside. Sorted!
Hope this diversion hasn't taken too much attention away from Stefan's model
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Quoteneildarlow
I have my fan guard installed like this also. Reading the build manual:
The four screws pass through a plain washer, the fan guard, the left stay, the fan (if fitted) and
finally a nyloc nut. There isn't a washer behind the fan because fan frames tend not to have room for
one.
I took this to read that the fan guard is fitted inside the machine to protect fingers roaming around the
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Looking good and this may be a minor point but I noticed that you have the post-print bed cooling fan protector cover on the wrong side of the dibond sheet. (Although as you do not have the fan installed, this may be deliberate).
I saw the same 'mistake' on the photos which you took showing your LED lights and camera in another recent thread but as said, given that you don't have a bed cooling f
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
As well as the quality of the filament itself, it is also worth looking into the way it is packaged. Some time ago, I purchased 1Kg quantities of PLA wound onto a spool and found that unwinding it was not as straightforward as it should have been. Why? As well as being wound very tightly, it had been put onto the spool in such a way that it ended up like a coiled spring, a tangled coiled spring t
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Quotenophead
The idea is that if you glue the focus ring on first then you can use that to break the seal, avoiding the use of pliers.
Ah! (Thought it might have been). Will try that before plier wrenching. Thanks.
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Thank you Stefan and Nophead.
I have read elsewhere that some GoPro owners have used the seal breaking technique to fix focus issues on their action cameras so if they are prepared to have a go with equipment costing £350+, I shouldn't worry about my comparatively low cost PiCam!
I guess I will have to take out my pliers and bite the bullet! Using acetone as an ABS glue for the focus ring sound
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Quotebastard
....So I broke the seal and turned the lens to focus. I used this since November last year.
I did not glue the focus ring onto the camera yet. I'm satisfied for now, but I should check it. What glue would be the best?
Stefan,
Did you use fine nose pliers to twist the lens carrier on the PiCam? Glue - my success with glue on PLA and ABS has been rather variable over the last few yea
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Well done Stefan and thank you for sharing - good to see the photographs and the LED striplight. I found a similar one in the UK rated at 250 lumens, 12V and 300mm long (cool white colour).
How did you get on focussing the PiCam? Any tips? Did you glue on the thumbwheel which Nophead designed and then break the lens seal or did you break the seal first using pliers or something before attaching t
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Quote3Design
And where do i need to plug in my fan?
See the answer below which was posted by Nophead on 19th June.
Quotenophead
I connect the negative lead of the fan to the P2 connector and the positive to the unused FAN+ terminal on the Melzi.
There is no point running 12V to the P2 because it just goes in one point and out another.
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Quote3Design
wich GCODE fie do you mean?
the configuration h file?
No, the GCode file is the one which is generated by your slicer program - Skeinforge, CURA, Sli3r ....
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Quote3Design
in wich line do i need to adjust these values?
If you are talking about the M42 lines as described by QuackingPlums, these go in the end.gcode file as you want to switch the cooling fan on and then off at the END of the print.
example...
M42 S255 P48 ; Turn cooling fan on
G4 S60 ; Wait 1 minute
M42 S0 P48; Turn cooling fan off
The above will be the final 3 lines of the GCODE f
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Nophead's current design which has been around since last October removed the need for such a cooling fan by incorporating a hole in the part cooling fan duct to disturb the air around the top of the JHead. At the same time, the design added self-amalgamating tape to the bottom of the JHead to reduce convected heat.
Saying that, when the design changes were released I had already added the fan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Quotesguzzel
What about this approach?
Intriguing - looks like something equivalent to the mechanical depth gauge in that it appears to be a method of getting the bed level rather than providing any sort of auto levelling.
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
I've been watching this thread for a while now and wondered whether anybody had read Richard's blog here:
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
This may not be applicable to Ninjaflex as I know nothing about it but when printing with flexible PLA, I found that I had to go really s-l-o-w (circa 10mm/s if my memory serves me right) to get anything like a decent print. Might be worth experimenting with speed as well as temperature.
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Quotelions3
This week i've starting to use ABS now that I have a E3D v5 extruder.
I have printed ABS with the standard J-Head using the same settings as for PLA apart from two things:
Temperatures : Bed needs to be around 130C and extrusion in the order of 245C. (Bed is as high as my 12V PSU will take it)
Fan: Leave it off for all layers
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Maybe off topic given that the following has nothing to do with the wire gauge but.....
If you connect 4.7R to a +12V supply, you will draw 2.55A of current and generate 30.6W of power.
Using a 6V supply, you draw 1.28A and generate 7.6W which is close to what the figures suggest. All I am saying is take care and make sure that you only operate the cartridge when fitted into the hot end heate
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
ABS at 220C and a heated bed at 75C? Please follow this up with a report on how things turned up. For me - I use Kapton tape on glass, a nozzle temperature of 245C and a heated bed of 130C which is just about as hot as I can maintain it.
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
QuoteGerdH
....As far as I remember from my education as electrical engineer, they don't recommend to tin-solder cord wire for connection with screw-type terminals. The tin-solder is a very soft metal, which gives way to the pressure of the screw with time. Instead they recommend the usage of ferrules, but this probably requires a suitable crimp tool.
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
QuoteSalocin
Is it possible to send g-code file the the raspberry pi. But run it from the Panelolu2?
GCode moves from the Pi to the MELZI over the USB cable which connects the two of them. When you run a file from the Panelolu2, it runs from the SD card - effectively as the onboard MELZI SD Card.
QuoteSalocin
I like the option that i dont need to remove the sd-card, but i would also like to spe
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
QuoteGarry Bartsch
I asked a local glass shop to cut me some pieces of ordinary 2mm glass with clipped corners. When we picked it up they were 3mm but working very well. But 2mm would be lighter for sure ...
2mm glass is a standard size for picture framers as Nophead says and strangely, I have never seen it for sale at any glass merchant. The 3mm stuff is usually used for windows. One type of an
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
The YouTube link will not play - it seems to have the "private" box ticked.
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90
Not needed if you get the print settings right in my experience. I print ABS with a nozzle temperature of 245C and bed temperature of 130C. In the past, I had delamination problems with a lower bed temperature for some reason. My printer is in the house though and not in an unheated garage which is likely to make a difference.
Alan
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Alzibiff
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Mendel90