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So do you use a lathe, or other setup, for drilling .5mm ?
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nb99
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General
As far as plans go - this is probably as good a place to start as anywhere..
Original Mendell construction
(again - this assumes the Botmill model you are getting is this version of Mendell - pics on the Botmill page certainly look like it.)
One of the links is to the "Mendel solid model files". If you haven't already, then get OpenScad (free 3D CAD, scripted rather than GUI - you'll learn
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nb99
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General
Yeah - those tiny drills scare the hell out of me... I bought a pack of 0.4mm, you don't want to sneeze while they're on the bench!
There's 1 or 2 lateral thinking suggestions out there for getting small dia nozzles without drilling at the final size,
but in the end, it may be an interesting exercise in determining one's limits...
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nb99
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General
Quotedean448
why bother building something that won't turn out to be as good as something you can buy?
For "practicality" - agreed - except for the pioneering spirit of "I built it myself".
I'm putting down a bob both ways, with an assembled J-head on order for "Sunday best" - but I'll still have a crack at making my own (probably many - maybe never get it as good ) in my little lo-tech works
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nb99
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General
Starting building a North90 stainless hot-end this weekend.
Quotenorth90
Also think about the diameter of the hole through the insulator, it needs to be quite a bit larger than the filament diameter (3.5mm for 3mm filament).
How does this go as far as backflow going up, cooling and grabbing - which has ended up being the nemesis of my classic ptfe/brassbolt hotend.
by
nb99
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General
the implication from the original post was that this was not a purchase from Botmill, but "from someone who never used it.", (a cooperative seller by the sound of it)
so the delivery problems of "bought from source" botmills should not apply.
TechnoBill - a reassuring quote on the forums I recall from my early days (a whole 6 weeks ago when some things didn't seem to want to work right was "
by
nb99
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General
I haven't followed the Botmill saga, but I imagine that being "preassembled" you should be getting something with all the basic bits.
Which means you would be no worse off than someone like me who built my Prusa from the ground up...
So - doomed - probably not... (except to maybe lots of late nights tweaking extrusion parameters to perfection and honing OpenScad models to "tidy up that last li
by
nb99
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General
I put a 2mm glass sheet from a picture frame on my unheated aluminium bed, then put blue tape on that. I guess the smoothness of the glass contributes to it sticking down quite happily without lifting.
And then once I have the Z-home clearance right for the first layer to get smooshed enough, about 0.2 mm tip clearance for 0.3 mm layers, PLA sticks like crazy. And it's a lot cheaper than kapto
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nb99
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Reprappers
I use Repetier firmware on a Sanguinololu - which allows dynamic setting of accelerations, max speeds, steps per mm, etc.
by
nb99
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General
May be affected by the layer height - I get the following issues with a 0.3mm layer height, lack of fill between walls, and a missing layer
Whereas with 0.4mm, there is fill between the square and circular cross-sections, and the completely missing layer in the 0.3 one is properly there in the 0.4
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nb99
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Slic3r
A good starter for very little default tweaking needed is the Repetier suite - Repetier host, and Repetier firmware.
The host auto installs slic3r (which again has minimal setup required) - but can be set to use skeinforge if you decide to go for the more comprehensive functionality after getting basic printing working.
Repetier Host
Firmware
by
nb99
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Reprappers
Another way to delay the inevitable is the good old hose clamp, round the low end of the PTFE barrel.
I have one of these "classic" designs, and with the wrap-around "girdle" have had no hint of movement in the brass bolt,
I had to add a fan on the upper part of the barrel to reduce the PTFE "grabbing" on hot/expanding PLA, plus a simple heatsink, (and a wind-shield on the hot-end of the hot-
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nb99
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Reprappers
Check out this Skeinforge manual,
Skeinforge manual on Fabmetheus
has some support-specific articles : e.g. Skeinforge support part 1
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nb99
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General
You also need to get the bed level, so it has the same clearance from the extruder tip all over..
You're talking a clearance in the range 0.1 - 0.2 mm, so the final adjustment is pretty fine.
It also depends on how your bed is mounted - often an upper plate with screws holding it to the lower bearing-mounted plate with springs between.
The approach I use for initial setup is to wind the upper p
by
nb99
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General
It is pointless bickering about the term "Commercial".
The simple criteria for what is valid and useful to the prospective new recruit, looking at the front page, have been laid out and reiterated in this thread :
To whit, that it is open-source with sufficient information linked for someone like me to build it from the ground up,
and that it has been "validated" by several "known" persons in t
by
nb99
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General
>>more such good suggestions
OK - you asked for it
I sometimes find the fine red line of the graph a little hard to see - how about having a colour selector section like in the 3D settings, and the ability to set the line a little thicker.
And possibly if say the temp line was one colour, and temp crossed an upper or lower threshold from the current target temp (selectable, may
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nb99
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Repetier
>>Scale X axis to intervals of 5, 10, 15, 30, 60 minutes
OK - for some reason I took that as meaning e.g. 5 minutes for each X "step / interval", as opposed to 5 minutes for the whole X width.
The whole timespan makes more sense - obvious now.
I suspect that's plenty of time options -
although I guess if you left a print overnight and found a problem several hours later, would be handy
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nb99
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Repetier
Post up the first 10 or so lines of the gcode you are getting from slic3r.
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nb99
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Slic3r
I like the idea of integration into the main window - at the moment I have both windows shrunk to 1/2 width to see & get at both..
>>Shows exactly one hour of date
As a default good, but while testing a thermistor related problem, need option for a more visible X scale, maybe 10 minutes or even 5.
Related - in the log window at the bottom of the main screen, it's useful at times t
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nb99
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Repetier
and I really like your program(s)
Generalised filters are a good longer term goal - creating a mechanism for non-programmers will be - um - fun but time consuming ...
A single filter call (#3) for programmer-users will be easiest and should therefore be at top of that list
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nb99
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Repetier
Trying to diagnose a thermistor signal noise problem - temperature monitor/graph very useful,
but how about an option to expand the Y scale on the temperature reading.
When there's only a few degrees variation going on, it's hard to have one's head in the printer and squinting across at the PC screen to try and see the tiny variations in the (very thin) red line, especially as it is common to
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nb99
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Repetier
Slic3r I gather does not yet have a Cool option.
I've done a simple Gcode post-processor which inserts cool sequences. (and can do other things)
But the sequence to run it is quite cumbersome in some circumstances, e.g. when using Repetier's very easy multiple object placements facility - the ordinary way is very convenient to just generate the Gcode and run -
but I have to go out, run my po
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nb99
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Repetier
Hows progress?
Have you decided what mechanism you'll be using - e,g, Wiki pages, or a program written to handle the questions...?
by
nb99
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General
I think ReplicatorG is host s/w (on the PC, not the firmware in the printer electronics)
Calibration values must be either loaded to the firmware or the firmware recompiled with altered constants in the source.
Fortunately most recent firmwares seem to allow dynamic loading from the Host. (like the Repetier host and firmware I am using)
If you identify your firmware, you should be able to searc
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nb99
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General
>>cutting out momentarily
OK - although when my Z-driver had too much current, and was doing that, there were brief *absences* of any stepper action as opposed to the loud thump-thump I have noticed when this one happens, and the Z one happened in little fits and starts (well, stops) rather than one isolated and elongated burst of audible "stepper bounces" (a bit over 1/2 a second o
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nb99
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General
- stepper power : it seems to have plenty of torque - if I grab the bed, it takes quite a bit of force to make the stepper skip..
- belt does rub against the Y-idler fender-washer, but as it prints fine for extended periods I'm not sure that would be it
- I tightened the pully yesterday, again I'd wonder that that would give a 1-off slip during some hours of printing - but I take the point a
by
nb99
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General
Yes, the sanguinololu has the second thermistor input and FET to control a bed heater.
I can't comment on the Gen6, but I assembled my sanguinololu from the bare PCB and kit of parts (including soldering the surface mount FTDI chip) and it ran first time. I've had zero electronics problems.
by
nb99
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General Mendel Topics
Hehe - comment from the upside-down youtub vid
"That's exactly how we in New Zealand do it "
I knew I was missing something down here ....
by
nb99
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General
Twice now I've had a long print kaputted by the Y stepper doing a burst of skips.
Almost the worst sort of problem to diagnose - extreme intermittency...
Both times (separate nights) I had been printing smallish items for a couple of hours, then I hear the dreaded thump-thump-thump-thump of a jam/skip.
The head was in the middle of the print area - it lost 7 or 8 mm in the Y direction, then i
by
nb99
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General
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Pages: 1234